It's a Dog's Life

It's a Dog's Life
Furry Four-legged Fun

Family Felines

Family Felines
Cats Rule and Dogs Drool

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?
Ride 'Em Cowgirl(boy)

Birds of a Feather

Birds of a Feather
Flights of Fancy

Horse's Tail Won't Grow? Follow These Growth Tips

Friday, December 31, 2010

Horses' tails can be a great source of pride or a real problem. Some horse's tails never seem to grow. Some horses have tails that grow, but the horses keep rubbing them out or breaking them off. If you follow these simple steps, you can be on your way to a long, luxurious tail in no time.

First, you need to untangle your horse's tail. Do not ever use a comb of any kind on your horse. A comb will prevent you from gaining a long, luxurious tail more than any other grooming equipment you use on your horse. Use a stiff bristle human hair brush to detangle the tail.

Learning Proper Horse Tail Grooming by Megan Squire
Start at the bottom of the tail and work your way up to the top. Detangle small sections at a time. I like to spray the tail heavily with a spray shine product such as show sheen or laser sheen to help me get it untangled. If it is really bad, I use Cowboy Magic for detangling.

Once you have the entire tail detangled, you need to wash it. Any regular shampoo will do fine. I like to follow up with a good conditioner. If I am using my rapid growth formula, this is when I apply it to the roots and rub it in real good with my fingers.

The next step I do with my horse's tail is to braid it from the bottom of the tail to the bottom of the tail bone. Be sure to leave it loose around the bottom of the tail bone so it doesn't irritate your horse. I seal the very bottom of the braid with black plastic electrician's tape. Never use a rubber band, as this will break the hair.

As the tail grows longer, I fold the tail, doubling it up below the bone. Then I apply another piece of electrician's tape to secure the fold below the bone. This is all you need to do to give most horses the best chance to grow their tail naturally.

Author Resource
Written by Beth Moore
In order to dramatically increase the rate of growth, or for more subborn tails, you can go to Secret Tail Growth Secret and get the homemade rapid growth secret and more tail growth tips. Soon, all your friends will envy your horse's tail.

Article Source: ArticleSnatch Free Article Directory

Cockatoo Care Tips

Thursday, December 30, 2010

To help keep your parrot healthy and happy, you need to know how to care for him/her.

Housing - The bigger the cage, the better, but there are some general guidelines for cages. For a smaller cockatoo, its cage should be no smaller than 30" wide by 20" deep by 43" deep. For larger cockatoos (such as umbrella cockatoos), the cage should be no smaller than 40" wide by 30" deep by 50" tall, but no matter what size the bird, the cage must be made strong enough for a cockatoo to hang onto when (s)he climbs around, and can withstand a cockatoo's powerful beak. The bars of the cage shouldn't be any farther apart than 1".

Buddy the Umbrella Cockatoo by Jim Lynch
Just as important for parrot care, would be toys. Toys should be made from very hard plastic or wood and should be brightly colored, zinc/lead free, and sturdy enough to withstand the great force of a cockatoo's strong beak.

Bells are also a wonderful toys for cockatoos, but make sure that the bell is made of a non-toxic metal. Stainless steel is safe for birds, however, be sure to get a bell for large birds. Bells that are too small can be easily taken apart, and small pieces can be swallowed, resulting in some real problems, even death.

A safe play gym, whether it is free standing, or mounts on the top of the cage is sure to bring plenty of fun.

Food is one of the most important things for good parrot care. A combination of a pelleted food and daily fresh fruits and vegetables will help to ensure a parrot's good health. Cockatoos can even have meats, however, beef and pork should be kept to a minimum, while more chicken and turkey is recommended. Cockatoos are not fussy eaters; however, do not give your cockatoo avocados, chocolate, or alcohol in any form. Deep fried should never be given to a cockatoo, nor should salted treats such as potato chips, pretzels that have salt, and saltines that have been salted. Diary products are safe for a Cockatoo; however, this too must be limited. Too much dairy product can cause diarrhea and dehydration from the diarrhea.

Good Cockatoo care also consists of time - your time. Cockatoos are very loving birds, and they are known for being 'cuddly' and they are demanding of their owners' time. They love to sit and have dinner with the family and at the same time they love their quiet time with their owner(s).

If a Cockatoo doesn't get the attention and love that it needs, (s)he can become quite loud and develop bad habits.

Many people who get cockatoos do not realize how demanding a cockatoo is, and soon become frustrated with them, leading up to the people either getting rid of the cockatoo or neglecting the cockatoo.

Medical care for a cockatoo should be done by a Certified Avian Veterinarian or an Exotic Animal Veterinarian. Many vets do not work with birds because this is a 'specialty field', and many vets do not know enough about birds.

So if you decide to get a Cockatoo, remember that they do require a lot of time, love, the right cages, toys, vet care, and food for the best cockatoo care that can be provided.

About the Author
For information on parrot care, please click here. Danny Learton publishes an online newsletter at where you can find killer tips and techniques that will help you turn your naughty bird into a well-mannered and well-behaved pet.

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How to Stop Dogs From Biting

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Numerous dog owners wonder how to stop dogs from biting a least one time during their pooch's life span, and this can cause a lot of stress figuring out how to change this behavior. Any dog which bites is an irritation when he is a pup, but as he gets older, he gets more dangerous with your family, friends and strangers. You must quickly take action if your pooch bites, in spite of his age.

Playing Rough with Your Dog is NOT a Good Idea by Lanfear's Bane
How to Make Puppies Quit Biting
The best time to do something about biting to stop it happens to be when your pet is only a puppy. You must learn how to stop dogs from biting early on in your dog's life. When a puppy is less than six months old you can retrain it easily, mainly because the puppy is still developing its personality; dogs normally learn to bite when they live in the wild.

The main issue on this is most people think their pups are just teething or playing and do not mean to hurt them. Sadly, what is actually going on is your pooch is exploring how to attain his position in what is called the pack, and he is using the biting to show he is the leader. When you are trying to figure out how to stop dogs from biting, it begins here when your dog is only a puppy, and just at the right age for learning.

Now there are a number of methods to make your puppy quit biting. Many of these methods try to mimic the way the mother or litter mates would treat the puppy. A noise sounding like whining if you are bitten, a slight nip on your dog's neck and handing your puppy his toy in place of your hand have all been proven effective in teaching your puppy not to bite people. In the event you have difficulty training your pooch to quit biting, then seek out a trainer or obedience school to help you.

How to Teach Older Dogs Not to Bite
As your dog gets older and continues to bite, this can eventually become a serious issue in the dog's adulthood. Your dog could turn on you, or consider that he is the leader in your pack.

If your canine nips or bites at people at one year or older, then you need to consult a professional quickly on how to stop dogs from biting, because this could cause serious problems if your dog chooses to exert his authority in the form of an attack.

So start early with the how to stop dogs from biting training to make sure your dog is young enough to learn easily. Most dogs that bite when they are older had the issue when they were puppies and it was not dealt with properly, there are those dogs too that can bite, because of mental disorders or diseases some of the time though. Deal with the problem early as we have stated.

I have been a professional dog trainer for several years now and enjoy helping people build better relationships with their dogs. I have trained a variety of dog personalities and love seeing the love between dog and owner grow to an unstoppable bond. If you would like to learn how to build a better relationship with your dog and to train your dog like a pro visit my blog Online Dog Obedience. For a quick look on what it will take to stop your puppy from chewing checkout my stop puppy chewing guide.

Author Resource
Written by Kayla Simones

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Siamese Cats are a Breed Apart

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Cats have long been one of man’s most constant companions. In the past cats were often kept in houses where they served an invaluable role in controlling household pests. In contemporary times, cats continue to be a favored house pet due to their intelligence, low maintenance, and warm personalities. There are many popular breeds of cats, but Siamese cats are among the most recognizable and popular.

Where are the Cat Books? by Cora Rónai
Siamese cats originated in Southeast Asia, although the exact origins of the breed are unknown. It was not until the twentieth century that Siamese cats became popular in western cultures. Today, Siamese cats are among the most popular breeds of cats in the world, and it is no wonder.

The appeal of Siamese cats begins with their stately and unique appearance. Their streamlined shape, striking facial features, almond-shaped eyes, and contrasting colors give Siamese cats a distinctive look that is different from any other breed. But Siamese cats are more than just a pretty face; they are renowned for their personalities as well.

Siamese cats are considered to be among the most social and extroverted of all breeds. They are warm and affectionate and often bond strongly to their owners. Consequently, Siamese cats are less independent than other cats and enjoy the confines of home with their owners. Siamese cats are also known for their distinctively loud, low-pitched voice.

Despite their high intelligence, Siamese cats are not necessarily easy to train. While some cats may heed your instructions from the very beginning, others may have a more inquisitive nature that leads them into mischief. However, it is rare that Siamese cats scratch furniture, and it is likely that they will prefer a carpet or scratching post to your precious sofa. But it is equally likely that you’ll occasionally find your Siamese cat perched on top of your bookcases or even your refrigerator. You would be wise to keep any breakable items off the top shelf!

Siamese cats should always be purchased from a reputable breeder. Good breeders will ensure that your cat has pure bloodlines, proper inoculations, and have developed their physical and social abilities enough to make the adjustment to a new home and owner.

About the Author
Written by Michelle Bery
For easy to understand, in-depth information about Siamese cats visit our ezGuide 2 Cats.

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Is Your Pet Bird Losing Feathers?

Monday, December 27, 2010

If your pet bird is losing feathers, you may be concerned, and rightfully so. Losing feathers could be a sign of serious medical illness or behavior problems. Birds who are losing their feathers should be of concern, and you should call your vet immediately to determine the reason your bird is losing his or her feathers. In the most basic sense, feather loss occurs either spontaneously or is self-induced, but each behavior can cause real medical problems.

Rudy's Feathers by Shelly Hansen
Molting is generally normal for a bird. As long as you see new feathers growing and there are no bald spots on your bird, there is usually no reason to worry. Your bird may pick out some feathers, but this is fine as long as your bird is generally in good health.

There are many medical conditions that can cause feathers to fall out or can cause your bird to pull out his or her own feathers. Your vet can tell you about all of these diseases and determine what problems your bird may be having. Parasites are a common problem. They can cause your bird to pick at his or her skin and accidentally pull out feathers. They can also damage the follicles, preventing new feathers from growing.

Inflammation of the follicles themselves can also be a problem. You usually cannot see this by looking at a bird, but your vet can determine if this is a problem with your bird by doing a feather follicle and skin biopsy. This kind of inflammation is commonly caused be yeast and bacteria. If you do see something wrong with your bird’s skin, this could be dermatitis, another cause of feathers falling out. A bird will pick at this inflamed skin, causing the feathers to fall out. As the bird plucks the feathers, the condition only worsens.

Allergies are another common cause of feathers falling out in a bird. In fact, a number of things in a bird’s environment can cause the feathers to fall out. If the cage is not clean, your bird may pick at dirty feathers. Zinc in the cage can also cause a chemical reaction in your bird, which may be a reason for a bird’s feathers falling out.

Feathers falling out can also indicate very serious diseases. Internal tumors can cause a bird to pick at a certain site, and problems with the thyroid can cause feathers to fall. In general, if your bird is losing excess feathers, it is important to call your vet to determine a solution to the problem.

Author Resource
Written by David Peterson
For more information on Birds Jinga's Pet Article World.

Article From Pet Article World

A Clean Hermit Crab Has The Proper Care

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Proper hygiene is important in the life of any animals. Hermit crabs should be clean and must be given the care they need. If you have a hermit crab, you have to give them tender, loving care like any other pets by cleaning it and anything that is associated to it. Know the usual things that a hermit crab needs in its every day living because those are the things that could affect them. One of the most important things that you must know for a healthy crab pet is the cleanliness of the surroundings and their very own self. Here are the common things that must be cleaned up together with them:

Hermit Crab Ready to Moult by Vanessa Pike-Russell
The Shell
The shell is almost their skin that seems permanently attached to their bodies. This is the very thing that is the closest to them. It seems that they cannot live without it. Their will to have a shell inside them is so intense in a sense that they can kill a fellow hermit crab just to have it even if they don't own it. That's how greedy they are when it comes to shells. They use it to cover half of their body protecting the stomach area which is so delicate. A shell must be always clean since this is their constant companion that they drag along when they roam around. To care for a hermit crab, you also need to clean their shells. There are some basic directions on how to secure the shells that keeps the hermit crabs from harm and here are the following:

  • Look for shells that have some cracks or holes that could possibly create some damage on the well-being of the hermit crabs. If you find some, separate it from the good ones and throw it away.
  • Create a baking soda solution by mixing the baking soda to 1/3 of water and immerse the shell for about 20 minutes. Make sure that you see some bubbles before you take out the shell from the solution.
  • Shake the shell for the water to come out from it. That is the only way for the water to drip.
  • Mix the aquarium salt to 1/3 water free from chlorine. Follow the instructions intended for the aquarium salt preparations. A clean hermit crab is in good care with this procedure.
  • Wash the shell for the last time in fresh chlorine-free water and let it stay for about 5 minutes and then drain the water. You could repeat this step in cleaning the shell every time you need to.

The Aquarium
This is the place where the hermit crabs constantly stay. So, if this is dirty, they will be exposed to harmful bacteria that might affect their health. Such exposure will weaken their immune system or worst, lead them to death. So, their crabitat must be kept clean to avoid such situation. Here are the ways on how to properly clean a hermit crab's habitat with care:

  • Take out the hermit crabs from the aquarium and put them in a secure place where they cannot easily escape. A container with a high lid is fine.
  • Clean all the toys that you have placed inside the aquarium. Use warm water to kill the bacteria that begins to grow in the accessories. This could also be applied to the rocks inside the aquarium.
  • Wipe the insides of the aquarium by a cloth with a disinfectant from the mixture of water and vinegar. This will only cost you the disinfectant you can buy from the department stores. For finishing, rinse the aquarium with warm water. You do the utmost care with your hermit crab that is thoroughly clean.

Author Resource
Preston Blackmore is a hermit crab enthusiast. For more information on hermit crab care, visit

Article From Pet Article World

Christmas Pets Photo Gallery

Saturday, December 25, 2010

I'll Guard the Presents, I Smell a Box of Chewbones by Brian Brooks

You Don't Need a Star, Put Me on Top of the Tree by Julie Vazquez

On the First Day of Christmas, My True Love Gave to Me ..... by Nicole Mays

Merry Fishmas by heyjupiter

All Thru the Barn, Not a Creature Was Stirring by Kate Sumbler

Santa Ferret by Richard Elzey

Hamming It Up with the Hamsters by LuLu Witch

Clown Loaches

Friday, December 24, 2010

Scientific Name: Botia macracanthus
Other Scientific Name(s): Cobitis macracanthus, Botia macrocanthus
Common Name: Clown Loach

Clown Loaches, aka the Insane Clown Posse by Lindsay Sorenson
Clown loaches are very popular aquarium fish; however they are not always easy to keep successfully since they easily succumb to ick and are sensitive to poor water conditions. This article is intended to help new clown loach owners provide a good home for their loaches. Clown loaches are found in Indonesia (Sumatra and Borneo), and almost all clown loaches in aquariums are wild caught and distributed around the world before being sold. This can put considerable stress on the fish, and a vital step in getting a healthy clown loach school in your aquarium is choosing healthy fish. But how to make sure that you get healthy fish?

  • Check the general conditions in the fish store. Are there dead fish in the aquariums? Is the water clean? If some tanks are mistreated there is a good chance that there might be unfavourable conditions in others too. Only buy fish from stores that take good care of their aquariums.

  • How do the clown loaches look? Clown loaches can give you an indication of their condition based on their coloration. A healthy clown loach shows clear distinct colours, while a stressed one loses its colours and becomes whiter. Only buy loaches that show their correct colours.

  • Are the clown loaches well fed? Those that haven't been fed correctly are hard to nurse back to health, and it is more than likely you will end up with a dead fish if you buy one. Look at their bodies and see if they look well fed, and ask the shopkeepers how often and what the loaches are fed.

  • Are the clown loaches active? Healthy clown loaches are very active and full of energy. A healthy clown loach should be hard to catch.

  • Do the clown loaches have hiding places? Hiding places are very important to relieve stress in clown loaches, and you are likely to get higher quality fish from aquariums with hiding places.

  • Don't buy clown loaches smaller than 2 inches/5 cm if you haven't kept clown loaches before, since they are much more sensitive when they are younger.

So ideally you should look for the most coloured, most active clown loaches you can find, and buy these to have the best starting point possible. You should also consider the water conditions in the store and try to find one that keeps their clown loaches in water condition similar to the water conditions in your aquarium, to reduce stress on the clown loaches. It should also be stated that clown loaches like resting on their sides, looking almost as if they were dead. However this is completely normal and should not be seen as a sign of poor quality in the fish but rather the opposite. When you have decided where to buy your clown loaches you should buy at least 3 (preferable 8-10). Clown loaches are schooling fish that should never be kept alone!!!

Once you get home with your new clown loaches you should let the bag float on the water surface for 10-15 minutes, and then slowly every 10 minutes add a little water from the aquarium (a coffee cup). Repeat this 4-5 times before you release the fish into their new home.

Digging Clown Loaches by JohnInFlorida51
Tank Setup
Clown loaches can be kept in aquariums of 100 L / 20 G or more. Keep in mind that even though clown loaches grow very slowly they will get big eventually and need an aquarium of at least 540 L/ 125 G, and that should be considered a minimum.

Decorate your aquarium using a bottom substrate of sand or fine gravel that allows the clown loaches to dig . I recommend keeping your clown loaches in a planted aquarium, however the choice of plants differs greatly depending on whether you keep juvenile or adult clown loaches. Juvenile clown loaches can be kept with most plant species, while adults can be kept only with hardy plants such as Java fern and Anubias. All other plants will be destroyed and/or eaten by the adult clown loaches. I also recommend using floating plants to dim the lighting, which makes the loaches more active during the day.

Clown loaches want a setup with a lot of caves and other hiding places, preferably so narrow that they can just barely squeeze themselves into them. Don't be concerned if your clown loaches have squeezed themselves into caves they dug under rocks or aquarium equipment. Odds are they are not stuck - they just like it that way.

Hiding places can be created with rocks, roots, PVC pipes, flower pots, coconuts and different kinds of aquarium decorations. Sharp objects should not be used to decorate aquariums for clown loaches. You can not create too many hiding places and you should create several for each loach.

Clown loaches are sensitive to poor water quality, and they require good filtration. Higher water circulation is also appreciated since clown loaches live in currents in the wild.

Clown loaches are excellent jumpers, and you should make sure that your tank is properly sealed.

As I said earlier, clown loaches are very sensitive towards poor water quality and are usually the first fish that get ill or die if the water quality drops. Water changes of at least 25% a week are recommended. Because of their low tolerance to poor water qualities they are sometimes called indicator fish, since their health indicates the status of the aquarium. Clown loaches are very sensitive to chlorine, and even small amounts can cause a mass death of loaches.

This species are very prone towards getting ick if the water quality isn't good enough, and are sensitive to most ick medicines and salts. So keep an eye on your clown loaches and only use half the recommended doses of medicine, otherwise you risk the medicine killing the loaches.

Clown loaches are carnivores and only eat vegetables to complement their diet. It is therefore recommended that they are given food that reflects this. To get your clown loaches to grow, optimal feeding 3-5 times a day is recommended. (They still grow slowly). Their diet should contain a variety of foods, and can include almost any carnivorous food. A good base may be shrimps, different sinking wafers, different frozen foods, and as they grow older, fish slices. Clown loaches can make a clicking sound, and they will do this when they are content. Therefore you will soon find out what is your loaches' favourite food by them clicking when they receive it. Like most other fish, clown loaches might need some time to accept new foods, however once they do it might become a favourite. Clown loaches are one of the few fishes that eat and like snails, and can therefore be of good use in snail control.

Clown Loach Closeup by camarelius
Clown loaches have been bred in aquariums, however it is very rare. Sexing clown loaches externally is hard, but possible by looking at the tail fin. The tail fin tips on the male are slightly bent inwards, making the fin look a little bit like a claw. The tail fin tips on the females aren't shaped like this.

Clown loaches have to be quite old and at least 7 inches / 17 cm before they are sexually mature. In the one good account of clown loaches spawning they spawned under the following conditions:
  • Temp: 84F
  • pH: 6.5
  • Ammonia & Nitrite: 0
  • Nitrate: < 25

Four large clown loaches (over 25 cm /10 inches) were kept together in a planted aquarium, and a few weeks before spawning they changed their behaviour and started eating live fish as their only accepted food. The females in the group grew very fast on this diet, and had doubled in girth by the time of spawning. The night during which the spawning took place, two clowns were swimming close beneath the surface entwined in each other and "clicking". The next morning, 450 eggs were found spread about the aquarium. Clown loaches eat their own eggs, so it is recommended moving the parents if you wish to succeed in spawning them.

The fry were fed liquid fry food for the first two weeks, after which they accepted crushed flakes. They grew relatively fast, to 2.5 cm/ 1 inch in 6 weeks. After that the growth rate slowed down.

It's suggested that older fish are essential for breeding since this fish might have to be quite old to be sexually mature. Clown loaches live to be about 50 years, so it is quite feasible that they may spawn later in life than many other species.

About the Author: This article is written by William Berg and brought to you by . William Berg also writes for other fish and pet sites. He is especially devoted to predatory fish such as those found on

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Ferret Bathing and Grooming

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Your ferret has personal hygiene needs similar to a human child. Bathing, ear cleaning, nail clipping, coat and skin care, dental care and parasite control are all part of the package for proper care of your pet ferret.

Things to attend to daily:

  • Dry grooming. Your ferret should be brushed and powdered every day. Use a gentle hand and brush him thoroughly with a cat brush. This will keep him smelling fresh and clean.

Surely I'm Clean Enough Now by Heather Bailey
Things to attend to weekly:

  • Wet grooming. Schedule a bath for your ferret once a week. Some ferrets will make this an easy task. Others will make this chore a bit more challenging. If your ferret likes being in water you can wet him in the sink or even in the shower. Using a ferret shampoo (or one for kittens in a pinch) put a dab on your wet ferret's upper back. Using your fingers, lather him up toward his ears and down toward his tail. Be careful to avoid getting shampoo in either his ears or eyes as this might be painful. Rinse him thoroughly and dry him off with a soft towel. If your ferret is skittish about getting wet go to plan B. Using a double sink fill both sides with warm water. Holding your ferret securely dip him in the first sink to wet his coat. Shampoo him as above. Dip him in the second sink to rinse him off, gently rinsing out the shampoo with your fingers.

  • Teeth care. Your ferret's teeth will naturally accumulate tartar from the food he eats. Depending upon his diet, this can be more or less of a problem. A dry food diet tends to help control tartar naturally. The best strategy is to have your ferret's teeth cleaned any time he goes to the veterinarian. Starting from that point, every week make it a point to check his teeth and scrape them with your fingernail.

Things to do every other week or once a month (as necessary):

  • Ear cleaning. Clearing your ferret's ears of earwax is important for his health and comfort. It also gives you the chance to check for ear mites. This is a two man (or woman) operation. Have your helper pick up your ferret by the scruff while gently cradling his body with their other hand. Using an ear solution designed for cats or kittens, dip the cotton swab in the liquid and clean the ear starting from the outside making sure not to push any foreign matter further into the ear. Another swab can be used dry to absorb any excess fluid left by the cleaning. Repeat the process on the other ear with fresh swabs.

  • Parasites. Use the opportunity of the ear cleaning to check your ferret for parasites other than the ear mite. Look carefully for signs of fleas and ticks. If needed, apply veterinarian approved remedies for such parasites.

  • Nail trimming. The need for nail trimming will vary from ferret to ferret. If the nail grows too long you stand the risk of it being snagged on things like carpeting and tearing off. Always make sure there is plenty of light. You must be able to see where the vein is in the nail. Cutting too close will cause bleeding and pain. You can use regular nail clippers or buy special ones. Cut the nail at least an eighth of an inch below the vein. Having a friend hold your ferret while you cut his nails is a good plan of action.

As you can see, caring for your ferret's bathing and other hygiene needs is quite a job. Your willingness to do these chores is an expression of your love for your furry friend.

Author Resource
Dr. Arthur Young is a ferret enthusiast. For more great information on ferret bathing and grooming, visit

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Too Many Cats?

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Cats are becoming increasingly popular as pets these days, and a big question is, how many cats should a family have? For some people, one is more than enough; others have half a dozen or more. Here are some sure-fire ways to know when you've reached your limit.

Cat House by Megan Morris
You know you have too many cats when:

  • Your annual cat food bill is more than the combined Gross National Product of Liechtenstein, Andorra, and San Marino.
  • Your last three cats are named Puss, Kitty-cat, and Hey You.
  • You and your spouse are sleeping on the floor because there's no more room in the bed.
  • The cleaning lady at the vet's office calls you by your first name.
  • All your windowsills are occupied.
  • Your neighbors forget your last name and start referring to you as "you know, the cat people".
  • You have to change the vacuum cleaner bags every week.
  • You're running out of corners to put litter boxes in.
  • Even your coffee table has a slip cover.
  • The most important crop in your garden every year is catnip.
  • You can't remember what a house plant looks like.
  • Flea collars smell good to you.
  • You actually understand what your cats are saying.
  • More than half your mail comes from Purina and Friskies.
  • Every year you get a personally autographed Christmas card from Morris.
  • Your cat door has been replaced three times.
  • For Mothers Day last year the kids pooled their money and bought you an electric cat brush.
  • You thought it was the perfect gift.

Copyright 1998

About the Author: Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey, and a long-time cat person who has been owned by as many as 13 cats at once, simultaneously, and at the same time. For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie's Stories and Tails at

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What Do Turtles Eat - Pet Turtles Food

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Feeding turtles can prove very expensive as they are exotic animals. You cannot feed your pet just anything; they require a healthy and balanced diet which could include insects or any kind of vegetables.

Like all reptiles, turtles are also cold blooded. A large number of turtles are found in the water. They are categorized into three types according to the type of turtle food they eat: Herbivores; which eat plants or any type of vegetation, Omnivores; which eat plants as well as flesh and Carnivores; which eat mostly meat.

Turtle Eating in the Sun by antaresjhw
Before feeding a turtle, you should know for sure which species it belongs to. The original habitat of each species varies and so do the other factors of its care. The best way to make sure of your turtle’s health is to feed it according to its natural diet. When the turtles are in their natural habitat, they eat a variety of foods depending on the season, hence feeding it a variety of foods is the best option.

There are a few foods that are restricted for the turtle:

  • No reptiles utilize milk at any stage in their lives and neither do they have the adequate enzymes to break down the lactose. That is why dairy products like cheese, yogurt, etc. should not be given as turtle food.
  • Preservatives and salt are not a part of the turtle’s natural diet. The effects of such things are not yet known, it would be sensible not to use canned or other processed foods for feeding it.
  • Do not give it candy, chocolates, bread or any other refined sugar and flour products.
  • In the wild, some turtles eat poisonous plants but these behaviors are not well studied. It is better not to give your pet any toxic plant found from their habitat such as poison ivy, rhubarb plant, avocado plant, etc.

Feeding only cantaloupe or crickets as turtle food does not create problems, but it can be insufficient for your pet. Occasionally feed your turtle cabbage, lettuce or even cooked beef. Though a turtle needs a calcium rich diet, you can give it foods that are low on calcium or high in phosphorus, if a separate source of calcium, such as cuttle-bones, eggshells, oyster shells, etc. is available.

Here are some foods that you can use as turtle food for a carnivorous turtle:

  • Green: Green leafy parts of vegetables like aquatic plants, watercress, turnip greens, green leaf lettuce, carrot tops, fig leaves, grape leaves, etc. can be given.
  • Vegetables: Squash, peas, okra, sliced carrots, sweet potato, corn and wax beans can be fed to your turtle.
  • Fruits: You can always give it fruits like fig, grapes, cantaloupe, tomato, banana, apple, mango, citrus fruits, kiwi, etc. occasionally.
  • Others: Other than plants, you can feed your turtle with various animal matter as well. Silkworms, crickets, snails, shrimps, slugs, dead mice, cooked chicken, boiled eggs, cooked fish, cat/dog food, etc are part of the natural habitat of a carnivorous turtle. Fatty red meat or any raw meat should be avoided as it might be dangerous for the turtle.
  • Turtle food: Apart from the natural foods, you can also feed the prepared food for turtles.

About the Author: Clint W is a genius who writes interesting and thought provoking content on a variety of niches like pet care tips. To get a word of knowledge on how to take care of different kinds of pets see Pet Care.

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Three Dog Breeds to Think Twice About Before Purchasing

Monday, December 20, 2010

Are you thinking about adding a purebred puppy to your household? Every purebred dog breed is genetically predisposed to its own unique list of medical problems. However, a few breeds are notorious for having more than their fair share of medical issues, and committing to a lifetime of care for these breeds without full understanding of the time and cost required is unfair to both yourself and the dog. This article describes the most common medical issues of three popular breeds: the Bulldog, Cocker Spaniel, and Dachshund. Read on to become educated and decide if one of these breeds is really the right dog for you!

With so many different dog breeds available, choosing the one that’s right for your household can be overwhelming. Most people do a fair amount of research before purchasing a purebred puppy, and commonly make the decision based on the breed’s size, appearance, and personality. These are all important factors, but one very important factor is often overlooked: medical issues. Purebred dog breeds have essentially been inbred over generations, which ensures consistency in the breed’s traits, but also allows genetic defects and medical disorders to be propagated in the breed. A few dog breeds are notorious for their medical problems, and it is crucial to have an understanding of these issues before you commit the time and money to caring for a dog for its lifetime.

The Bulldog: Respiratory Difficulty, Skin Infections, and Corneal Ulcers

Bulldog Puppy by Cynr
The English Bulldog is famous for its appearance. It has a short, stocky build and a wide stance giving it a tough and sturdy appearance. It has a short muzzle and prolific facial folds. It is a widely popular breed, and appears in numerous commercials and print advertisements for pet products. Unfortunately, the breed is also famous for its medical problems. The short, smashed-in face that makes it so adorable also creates some medical issues. The Bulldog suffers from what is called Brachycephalic Airway Syndrome (BAS). The four components of this syndrome are: Stenotic nares (nostrils that are disproportionately narrow), hypoplastic trachea (the tracheal diameter is disproportionately small), elongated soft palate (the tissue in the roof of the mouth extends too far back into the throat), and redundant pharyngeal tissue (excessive tissue in the back of the throat). All of these anatomical problems taken together mean that the Bulldog has a very difficult time breathing. It is so difficult for this breed to move air to their lungs that you can actually hear them breathing, even at rest. The problem worsens exponentially if the animal is stressed, overworked, or overheated. It is very easy for a Bulldog to go into a state of respiratory distress, necessitating emergency veterinary care. In some cases, surgery is necessary to correct the anatomical abnormalities to allow the animal to breath. Expect to pay a few thousand dollars if surgery is necessary.

The Bulldog’s difficulty breathing is not its only challenging trait. The excessive facial skin that creates those adorable wrinkles also causes some major problems for the breed. The valleys of skin between the facial folds create a dark, moist environment perfect for bacteria and yeast to proliferate. This causes smelly, oozy skin infections that require constant attention. The excessive skin on the Bulldog’s face also predisposes the breed to a condition called ‘entropion’, which is the inward folding of the upper or lower eyelid. When the eyelid rolls inward, the eyelashes act as an abrasive irritant to the sensitive cornea, which is the clear outer surface of the eye. Constant rubbing of the cornea leads to corneal ulcerations and abrasions, which require veterinary attention. Many Bulldogs are cursed with repeated corneal ulcers and the only permanent solution to entropion is surgical correction, which is expensive and sometimes requires repeated attempts for success.

The Cocker Spaniel: Severe Ear Infections and Oily, Smelly Skin

Blowin' in the Wind by Mike Baird
The Cocker Spaniel is traditionally one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States. “Lady” from Lady and the Tramp, probably the most famous Cocker in popular culture, embodies the more endearing qualities that draw people to the Cocker – the long, heavy ears, the long eyelashes, and the luxurious hair coat. Cocker Spaniels tend to have easy-going personalities and can make great family pets. However, a few characteristics of the Cocker Spaniel can make it less than appealing for the average dog owner.

Cockers are notorious for having severe and chronic bacterial ear infections. Their long, heavy ears combined with underlying skin abnormalities create the perfect place for bacteria to thrive. Ear infections require intense at-home care, and it is not uncommon for an ear infection that is not appropriately treated to become so severe that pus literally oozes from the ear canal. The infected ears have a very distinct, pungent odor that can be smelled from across a room, and handling the ears for treatment leaves a smell on the hands that is only removed after repeated washings. Many Cocker Spaniels with chronic ear infections develop narrowed, inflamed ear canals, which can actually cause the ear canals to be closed off from the outside. This condition requires surgery, which is expensive and painful for the animal.

In addition to the horrendous ear problems, Cocker Spaniels also suffer from a condition known as primary seborrhea, which is a disorder that causes the skin to be flaky, oily, and smelly. This can make petting, or even being close to the dog unpleasant. Seborrhea also affects the way the oil glands function, and causes the formation of sebaceous adenomas, which are benign oil gland tumors resembling warts in appearance. It is not uncommon for an older cocker spaniel to have dozens of sebaceous adenomas on its body. The problem is largely cosmetic and the tumors are benign, but they can be irritating to the animal and sometimes bleed, necessitating removal.

The Dachshund: Intervertebral Disc Disease and Periodontal Disease

Dappled Dachshund Puppy by Mr. T in DC
The Dachshund, or ‘wiener dog’, was bred for hunting small mammals. It’s long back, long muzzle, and short legs make it perfect for sniffing small animals out of their holes. The Dachshund is a very popular breed because of its small size and ability to integrate well into a family. However, anyone thinking of purchasing a Dachshund needs to be aware of a few potential problems with the breed.

First of all, the Dachshund’s extraordinarily long back makes it prone to a condition called Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD). IVDD is a degenerative weakening in the intervertebral discs, which are the spongy cushions between the individual vertebrae that make up the backbone. When the disc is weakened, it is at risk of rupturing and protruding into and compressing the spinal cord beneath it. When the spinal cord is compressed, neurologic function in the rear legs is compromised. This results in anything from mild weakness in the hind legs to complete hind limb paralysis and loss of control of the bladder and bowels. IVDD is commonly seen in middle-aged Dachshunds who are otherwise healthy, and many times emergency spinal surgery is necessary to save the function of the legs.

In addition to IVDD, Dachshunds are also genetically predisposed to severe periodontal disease, which is the degenerative loss of structural support around the teeth. Although this may not sound like a big deal, severe periodontal disease has a major effect on quality of life for the animal. If the periodontal disease is severe enough the teeth will become very painful and infected, and will have a terrible odor associated with them. Periodontal disease can affect the animal’s ability to eat, and will require surgical extraction.

In conclusion, choosing which breed to integrate into your household is a very important decision. Common medical problems of the breed should be one of the factors you examine closely when making that decision. The Bulldog, Cocker Spaniel, and Dachshund can be great pets, if you are willing to commit to caring for them. Be aware of the potential time and financial commitments that you may be taking on by purchasing a purebred puppy, as you will be doing a disservice to both yourself and the dog if you are not prepared to deal with its potential problems.

About the Author: Bruno is a Norwegian dog expert. He has been blogging about Hunderaser and Hundeutstyr for more than five years.

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Alternative Treatments for Horses - Crystal Therapy

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Horse owners have been using magnetic horse blankets for many years but lately a new technology has been making an entry into the equine market. Crystal horse rugs are cheaper, safer, more effective and suitable for all horses.

Unlike magnetic horse blankets that can only be used for short periods of time, crystal horse rugs can be used on any horse indefinitely. Crystal therapy products can be using alongside conventional treatments to speed up the healing process. Magnetic horse rugs cannot be used if there is any active or untreated infection on the horse or within 3 days of a hematoma, if there is an acute injury or in conjunction with heat creating medicines or liniments. Crystal horse rugs can be used any time on any horse, they are completely safe.

Horse Relaxing Under a Blanket by Nihar
Crystal horse blankets contain CelliantTM this material has been proven to increase the volume of oxygen in the blood and improve circulation. CelliantTM accelerates muscle and tissue recovery due to its oxygen enhancing benefits. Crystal horse blankets containing CelliantTM , crystals and certain precious metals work on thermal regulation of the horse's body temperature. This makes the blankets ideal for equine athletes and horses involved in high intensity sports such as endurance, eventing and show jumping.

You can choose from two types of crystal horse blankets: relaxation rugs and energy rugs. The crystal relaxation horse rugs induce a soothing and calming effect on nervous and high strung horses. These rugs work on reducing stress and fear in horses making them ideal for use when transporting horses. The calming effects of the relaxation crystal horse blankets help preserve the horses' concentration and energy. These blankets are ideal for dressage horses.

The Energy crystal horse rug increases and stimulates your horse's energy levels and is ideal for horses that participate in high intensity sports such as eventing and endurance. The metals and crystals utilized in the energy crystal horse rugs give horses an extra boost of energy to help them achieve better results in intense disciplines such as racing, endurance and eventing.

The healing properties of CelliantTM and crystals are also beneficial in leg wraps and bandages. Crystal healing leg bandages can help promote accelerated recovery from trauma and fatigue to the limbs. These state of the art bandage pads have been used successfully for sports horses. The nanotechnology involved in the crystal bandage pads help increase blood flow to ligaments and tendons which reduces the likelihood of stress and injury to legs and hooves.

Crystal rugs and wraps can be used on any horse and are completely safe. They have no bad side effects and their healing properties do not fade or diminish with time. There are no limitations to their use, unlike other similar products.

Author Resource
Written by Josie Amani
Stal Amani carries the complete line of Equicrystal products at highly competitive prices, please visit our website today to find out how we can help you get the best out of your horse

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The Best Way to Get Rid of Mice in Your Aviary

Saturday, December 18, 2010

If you have an aviary in your garden, no doubt it will attract rodents, which are pesky and hard to get rid of. You will be aware of their presence if you notice small mounds of sand and longish brown pelleted droppings. If you don't take action at once, the problem will just get worse. The best way to do this is to call in pest control specialists, as poisoning them on your own is risky, not only to you and your family, but also to your birds.

Cockatiel in a Home Aviary by Vincent Hrovat
Mice can quickly become a serious problem, as where there is food freely available, namely bird seed, they will breed and multiply rapidly. A single pair of mice can have over a hundred babies a year. If you have a lot of mice, they will destroy your aviary in no time, as they can get in-between the lining materials in the walls and nest there. They could also find a place in the floor to nest, and if this happens it will be very difficult to get rid of them with poisoning methods or traps, or your birds might be harmed.

A good option is to place a killer trap in the enclosure of your cage. This is the entrance box where you come in and the birds can't get into. The mice are usually able to move freely between the bars of the cage, and will be able to access the trap easily. Box traps that catch the mice alive are best, and sometimes you can catch over a dozen mice in a night. They also have no dangerous components, so you can use them around the aviary without harm coming to your birds.

It will take the mice a few days at first to become used to the trap. Place bait in it to entice them with the lid off for a few days until they are feeding regularly there. Then you can put the lid on and the mice will be able to enter, but not escape again after they have fed.

A cat is another option, but you will have to be careful here, as given half the chance they will also eat your birds. If you let the cat into the aviary, make sure you remove all your birds first. Make sure that the cat can't get near enough to the birds to harm them. If the cat gets on the roof of the aviary, it could scare the cockatiels and other birds off their nests.

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Written by Michel Maling
To find out just about anything about owning and caring for a cockatiel, visit:

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A Stress Free Biorb Fish Tank

Friday, December 17, 2010

Have you ever stared at an aquarium? And then find yourself relaxed while simply looking at the bright, beautifully colored fish, and then you wonder how much money and effort it would take to get one for yourself? And then suddenly, voila! You realize it's not that so relaxing anymore. Well, with a Biorb fish tank, there's really truth to the word stress free!

Decorative Biorb Fish Tank by Simon Harrison
With regular fish bowls, maintaining good water quality is really time consuming and endless worrying about your pet fish because of dirty water, is a real deal breaker, not to mention the odor that usually accompanies dirty fish tank water. With a Biorb fish tank, water quality issues are a thing of the past, since it comes with its own filtration system that actively cleans the water of waste from your pet fish, excess food, and algae that build up in regular fish tanks making the water smell really awful and also might cause your pet fish to get sick and die, causing you stress instead of the other way around.

The built in filtration system is neatly tucked in into the base of the fish tank that also serves as an accent to the aesthetic design of the Biorb fish tank, the base and lip comes in a variety of colors further providing any owner, a custom look and finish that blends well with the unique taste and feel for anyone deciding to add a compact fish habitat in their room, office or personal space. Being able to care for pet fish in a very economical and stress free way is very important since the purpose of getting a fish bowl or a fish tank for most people is to help them relax by being able to take care and watch their colorful pet fish. It's also a good conversation piece, no doubt with friends and visitors alike and the likely question would be "where can I get one of those?"

You can customize your own Biorb fish tank, aside from the different color choices for the base and lip of the fish tank, you can also choose lighting, accessories and decorations that are unique to your own taste. The Biorb fish tank retails from $50-$100 dollars each, depending on the size of the tank and the accessories and decorations that you wish to include in your fish tank to help deliver to you stress free moments from enjoying your pet fishes and their new habitat.

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Written by Christopher Stigson
Learn More see Biorb Fish Tank and check Fish Pond Supplies for more information.

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African Pygmy Hedgehogs

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Hedgehogs are gaining popularity as pets, and it's not really surprising; once you've seen one of these adorable little creatures you may soon find yourself tempted to get one. Here are a few things you should be aware of before considering getting an African Pygmy hedgehog as a pet.

Hedgehogs can't be kept as pets in some States. The first thing you should do before even considering getting a hedgehog is to find out if keeping them is legal where you live. Keeping an animal illegally as a pet can result in you being fined and your pet being confiscated and even euthanized.

Luna, the African Pygmy Hedgehog by Jeff Henshaw
Hedgehogs are classified as exotic pets because they are not indigenous to the United States. As yet, hedgehog supplies aren't as readily available as other small mammal pet supplies. You may have to devise a cage and diet for your pet. Commercial hedgehog feed mixes can be found but most don't offer the nutrients hedgehogs need to thrive and you will have to supplement it with much needed ingredients, which brings us to the next important side to hedgehog ownership that you should keep in mind.

Hedgehogs are insectivores, they mainly eat insects. If your pet is to thrive and remain healthy you will have to feed it insects. If you're too squeamish for this then a hedgehog is definitely not the pet for you. They need to be fed a few mealworms or crickets on a daily basis. These can be bought frozen or live from most pet shops.

Hedgehogs are nocturnal creatures; they sleep during the day and become active at night. While you can gradually train your pet to be more active during the day, it is still something you should consider when considering a hedgehog as a pet.

Hedgehogs don't make ideal pets for children because of their quills. Hedgehogs aren't averse to biting when they feel threatened and their bite can be quite painful. They can carry salmonella without exhibiting symptoms so you should always wash your hands before and after handling one. This is another reason they are not suitable for households with young children.

Hedgehogs have excellent hearing and because their sense of hearing is so acute, they can be stressed by loud noises as well as normal household noises such as the clicking of light switches and the TV. If you're thinking of getting one then you have to provide it with an environment it will feel safe in.

If despite everything you still think a hedgehog is the pet you want, be sure to research extensively before buying one. You want to make sure you can provide the best possible life for your little pet before bringing one into your life.

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Written by Mark Coulter
Mark likes to write on an assortment of topics and has been doing so for a number of years. His latest site provides folks with information on Delta faucet parts.

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A Family Christmas for a Bunny

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Laurie was only eight years old but she knew she had done something bad. She truly hadn't meant to and loved all creatures warm and furry, but when she had rode her big wheel over the mound of dirt in excitement she had no idea that there was a young bunny underneath that had just nearly run itself to death in fright after having gotten separated from his mother and the warren.

A Girl and Her Pet Bunny by Benny Mazur
But Laurie wasn't old enough to know that when bunnies or other small mammals go into shock they can actually freeze up and resemble a dead animal. She knelt reverently over the small mound of dirt that now held the bunny and cried the tears of a heartbroken little girl.

Laurie silently mourned the bunny while reaching a tentative hand down to it to pick it up. She knew even at eight that the respectful thing to do would be to bury it. She didn't want to ask her daddy as daddy had been hurt in a work accident just before his allotted days off for Christmas each year. Just a week ago she had been brought by her teacher frightfully to the hospital to learn her father's legs had been crushed. But she had been a good girl, and even with her mom long gone to who knows where, she knew how to make cereal and to help her daddy through this hard times in the ways even a little eight year old girl can contribute.

Daddy had also warned her that Christmas may not be piled in presents like it had been each year before him and Mommy had divorced. Things were just hard he had told her, and when she gazed into her Daddy's tired eyes, she didn't even question it, things were hard indeed.

As she scooped up the bunny it startled back to life in her very hands. Laurie gasped at first from the shock of movement, and slowly that turned into a slow wonder as the bunny shivered and shook and then settled snugly into her gloved hands. Laurie stopped walking and immediately began to call for the Bunnies Momma. Since she had no idea what the bunnies momma's name was she just looked around mostly, and then glanced back into her hands at the bunny.

She knew then as it looked up to her, looked directly at her, that the bunny would need her to survive. She had no idea how old he was, or that he was a he, but only that he had no Momma, just like her, and since she could be a pretend Momma sometimes to help Daddy, she was certain she could be a good Momma to a bunny who didn't even need a bowl of cereal in the mornings to get going. As she walked slowly back home she glanced into the homes she passed and envied them their Christmas trees. Daddy said Momma had taken their old one and with Christmas being so close and him unable to get around, they would just have to settled for the tiny decorative tree he usually kept on his office desk every year.

Laurie knew Daddy wouldn't be happy about the bunny, but she also knew of an old tradition that her Daddy said came from her ancestors that said when you saved the life of another soul, you were responsible for them for the rest of your life. Laurie knew that Daddy would help her to honor that tradition, he wouldn't have mentioned it otherwise right?

As Laurie walked into the kitchen she had no idea her Daddy had been watching her walk up the street, so seemingly small and helpless. He had seen her glancing hopefully at the Christmas trees in the other homes on the block, he had seen her cradling for dear life whatever she held in her hands. He had decided before she even made it to the door that he would let her nurse the bird or whatever she had found that needed help, and only hoped that whatever it was hadn't already died and would leave his broken hearted little girl a lot sadder than she ever deserved to be on such a beautiful holiday as Christmas.

"Laurie, what do you have my dear?" He said to her as she walked slowly into the kitchen from the mud room.

Laurie glanced up at him with a tear in her eye and very meticulously planned her every word. "Daddy, you once told me the story of our ancestors who believed that when you had saved the life of another soul that you became responsible for it for the rest of your life."

"Yes, that is correct Laurie. Did you save the life of this small rabbit?" Laurie's Daddy asked in a very serious tone.

"Well, surely I did as not only was he alone without a mother in site but he was hiding in a mound I ran over playing on my new big wheel. It has to be meant to be to be so many coincidences that led me to him. Isn't that what you taught me before Daddy?" Laurie said, tears still shining brightly in her eyes as she knew at best her Daddy would make her take the bunny to the shelter where it would surely die from lack of love and care.

"Laurie, you are a wonder. To be so young and to remember such an important story and an honor that should be close to all of our hearts truly warms me. You of course are right, you now owe it to the bunny to care for it until at least the day it can care for itself."

Christmas Bunny by rabbit_mage
"Oh! Thank you Daddy, thank you so much. This is the best Christmas present ever!" Laurie exclaimed. And her Daddy, with a tear welling up slowly in his own eye, replied:

"No Laurie, thank you, for being my perfect Christmas present this year and every year."

About the Author
Written by Jenn Landers
Hop over to and buy Real Looking Christmas Trees

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A Chinchilla? What?

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

When I tell people that I own a chinchilla, their initial reaction is usually "Huh?" People hardly know anything about chinchillas other than they are rodents, but there is so much more. I have had fish, hamsters, lizards and dogs, but my chinchilla has been my most interesting pet to raise so far.

A chinchilla is a rodent that upon first look resembles a rabbit with a bushy tail. A chinchilla is much more active than a pet rabbit, though. While they do hop like rabbits, they are much more agile jumpers and are not afraid to jump from high ledges. As an owner it is important to note this when handling a chinchilla. You want to hold them firmly but gently, as to not hurt them and not give them the chance to jump out of your arms and risk hurting themselves. They tend to enjoy being cupped against your chest or stomach which provides both comfort and safety to the animal.

Trio of Chinchillas by Ph!L!s
Like any animal living in a cage, chinchillas need a chance to run free once in a while. This should be done in the house, either under your supervision or in a safe setting. Often I put my chinchilla in a hamster ball so she can get some exercise without getting into trouble. It also is a good way to protect your small animals from other animals that might cause problems, like dogs.

If left to roam on their own, there are hardly any places safe from your chinchilla's expeditions. They are very adventurous animals and are always looking for a new toy to chew on. Often this is wood or electrical wires, though plastics, papers and other reachable materials are not out of the question. The floor should be checked carefully before letting your pet out for their exercise. Electrical wires should be lifted off the ground and out of the chinchilla's reach.

You may think that you can keep up with the chinchilla and that there is no need to take such precautions, but they can be very sneaky animals when need be. They are easily timid if not used to their owners and will instinctively find a safe place out of your reach, usually under a large chair or behind a huge piece of furniture.

The biggest problem with chinchillas is stocking up on the right pet supplies. Most small, local pet stores don't carry chinchilla specific items, even if they have sold the pets in the past. This was the case with my chinchilla. The most essential chinchilla specific item is their dust bath. This can be easily found in many stores though as usually a common item to see.

Chinchilla specific toys and food can be rare, however. It may run out and more stock may take weeks or months to come in. Do not worry. Chinchillas love many things that gerbils, hamsters, rabbits and even parrots do. They really enjoy wood blocks to chew on, as do all rodents since it helps keep their teeth healthy and perfect length. Chinchillas are very active even in their cage, and wooden ledges for them to climb and jump around on is wonderful too. They also enjoy a nice shelter within their cage, usually some plastic house or igloo you can easily find.

Chinchillas are quite unique animals. While many needs can be similar to a rabbit or hamster, they have a much more wild and adventurous personality that can keep you on the go when taking care of them. They are very affectionate too and can be just as comforting as a dog or cat. If you haven't considered buying one before, it is a nice possibility to look into. Once you hold a chinchilla and feel its soft fur nudge into you with its own version of a hug, you'll never want to put it down.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Author Resource
Jake Rose is an aspiring artist and writer from New England.

Adding Angelfish To Your Freshwater Fish Tank

Monday, December 13, 2010

Angelfish are beautiful and graceful - a great addition to any fish tank, but you need to be careful that you don't put them in a tank that has fish that they will not get along with. Even though these fish seem peaceful and gentle, they can be mildly aggressive and might tend to eat your smaller fish!

A member of the Cichlid family, Angelfish come in many varieties and colors. They can be a little bit fragile when they are young but as they grow older they can be quite hardy. You'll want to keep them in groups of six or more, however, as just two or three is not a good mix and you may find that the stronger one bullies the weaker fish, but if you keep them in large schools they should be fine.

Bicolor Angelfish by Richard Ling
You'll need a large aquarium for these fish, either 29 gallons or larger depending on how many fish total you want to keep. Make sure you have gravel that is at least 1/4" thick. You will have to keep the tank temperature between 70 and 82°F so be sure that you mix your angelfish with other fish that thrive in this temperature. Make sure your aquarium is at least 24 inches deep - the deeper the better and the deeper your fish tank, the larger your fish will grow. Some angel fish have been reported to grow as large as 12 inches.

Angelfish are not that difficult to feed and they don't really require any special food. You can give them the floating flake food that you find in any pet store and may be substituted in some freeze dried blood worms. If you want to give them a treat, try some brine shrimp or live black worms but be sure to select worms that are in good condition. Although the angelfish is mildly aggressive there are many other fish that can get along quite well in the tank with them. Large Tetras (not the tiny neons) and Silver Dollar fish get along great as do Swordtails Mollies and Platies. Avoid putting Guppies in with your Angelfish as the Angels do tend to eat them. Other fish that you can include in the tank include Gouramis, Clown Loaches, Bala Sharks and Giant Danios.

Although easy to care for and rather hardy, Angelfish can become victims to other fish that like to nip at their long fins. In addition to this they can be susceptible to a common fish tank disease called hole in the head disease which manifests itself as a sore on the fish's head and spreads alarmingly eventually killing the fish.

If you treat your angelfish right, don't overcrowd the tank, make sure you do regular maintenance, feed him properly and keep the tank at the right temperature, your fish can live for 10 years!

Author Resource
Lee Dobbins writes for Fish Tank Guide where you can learn more about setting up and maintaining a fish tank as well as the different types of tropical freshwater fish.

Obesity and Your Pet Bird

Sunday, December 12, 2010

It may not seem like a common problem, but obesity in pet birds can really take a toll of your pet’s health. In reality, many pet birds are obese. When your pet bird is obese, he or she is at risk for a number of medical conditions and may be more susceptible to diseases. If your pet bird is obese, it is important to talk to your vet about how to help your bird lose weight and begin to maintain a healthy body weight instead.

Overweight Peachface Lovebird by Salehi Hassan
The first step to treating obesity is, of course, determining if your pet bird has a problem. Each pet bird species has a different target weight—you wouldn’t expect a macaw to weigh the same as a lovebird! There’s also a range for bird weight, just like humans. Birds are typically weighed in grams, and this can be done at home if your bird is well trained or your bird can be weighed at the vet’s office. Either way, your vet should be able to tell you if your pet bird is of the right weight.

You can also look for signs of obesity in appearance. Like humans, birds can get a double chin, which is basically a roll of fat under the beak. Fat also causes the feathers to fall out, so bald patches indicate large deposits of fat. You should also be able to see depots of fat on your bird when handling him or her, and so you should look for yellow or white deposits under the skin, especially around the thighs and upper breast.

If your bird is obese, it could be because your bird is not getting enough exercise or is eating a diet that is high in fat. This is really a possibility if your bird is fed human foods, which are very inappropriate. You can help your bird with the obesity problem by stopped this kind of feeding, and you can add toys to the cage and play with your bird often to help him or her be more active.

You vet can also help you help your bird get back to a normal weight. Certain medications are possible if your bird is developing other health problems due to obesity. Low-fat diet food is also available for your bird. When you care about your bird’s health, you give him or her the best care possible. Talk to your vet about ways to keep your bird from getting obese and prevent disease.

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Written by David Peterson
For more information on Birds Jinga's Pet Article World.

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Monkeys - Do Your Homework Before Acquiring One

Saturday, December 11, 2010

When you are looking at acquiring a particular pet for the household, there are numerous kinds of pets from which you will have to decide. To try to be different, a number of people will gravitate towards the exotic and there is hardly a more adorable exotic pet than the monkey. That said the squirrel monkey is typically the type of monkey selected by would be monkey owners. It is said that you can't judge a book by its cover and that statement was never more true as it relates to monkeys; particularly the squirrel monkey. Given the level of proper care required in owning a monkey, it can be a somewhat unrewarding and demanding experience.

Pair of Squirrel Monkeys by Gareth Hughes
Squirrel monkeys happen to be from South America originally, and they've migrated to America over time. Prior to settling on a monkey as a pet, all potential owners should do their due diligence and fully understand and appreciate all the aspects that go along with owning a pet monkey. Although they can be delightful pets, it should be noted that these creatures are wild animals and they will remain so. As such it is incumbent upon the owners to ensure the safety of all those who may come in contact with their pet monkeys as human injury is always a possibility.

If after careful consideration you still elect to become a monkey owner there are other items that will need to be contemplated. Squirrel monkeys essentially have no "off switch" and thus nearly constant activity is required in order to keep them fit and healthy. You should also realize that because they are undomesticated, their diet needs to match as closely as possible that which they would enjoy if still in the wild; unfortunately, feeding monkeys isn't as simple as it is for dogs, cats, rabbit, etc. Dry foodstuffs designed for monkeys can generally be found at area pet retailers. It is not the finest form of nutrition for your pet; nevertheless, it will ensure that your monkey receives its necessary vitamins. Additional nutrition can be provided by supplementing dry food with some fruits and vegetables. Infant milk can also be fed to your monkey during the initial few years after they are born; and then ultimately begin to transition them into solid foods. There are many different methods available to you to begin to shift your monkey to solid food with the size and weight of your animal dictating strategy.

Additionally, but no less importantly, owners must be cognizant of the fact that monkeys can become sexually active and assertive during particular time frames. Spaying or neutering should effectively diminish aggressive sexual tendencies in the future. Conversely, the absence of spaying/neutering can cause owners significant headaches which can result in physical injury to themselves and/or to those who come in contact with their pets. Caution cannot be overemphasized.

Author Resource
James Watchfield is well versed in small pets including monkeys He has written a number of articles about different kinds of animals that can be found on the internet. If you are interested in monkeys as pets you'll want to provide them with a good home. To view our line of monkey enclosures please visit which specializes in all different types of quality animal cages at discounted prices. You now have full permission to reprint this article provided this box is kept unchanged.

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