It's a Dog's Life

It's a Dog's Life
Furry Four-legged Fun

Family Felines

Family Felines
Cats Rule and Dogs Drool

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?
Ride 'Em Cowgirl(boy)

Birds of a Feather

Birds of a Feather
Flights of Fancy

How to Train Your Horse to Accept the Trailer

Monday, January 31, 2011

Horses are fight or flight creatures, they flee from danger or stand fast to fight. From a horse's point of view a trailer must seem like a dark and dangerous cave-like object and from a survival point of view, getting stuck in a cave is never a good move to make. Years of survival instincts have taught horses not to go into dark, ominous looking places.

Horses Loaded Up and Ready to Roll by Jan Glas
Many horses are initially fearful of being led into a trailer so it's best to break down the experience in order not to overwhelm the horse. A good way to do this is to introduce the horse to a thick sheet of plywood on the ground and have him walk over it. Allow him to look at the plywood and smell it and don't force him over it. A lot of coaxing helps relax the horse. Try this several times until the horse is comfortable walking over it.

In the next step of the exercise try raising the sheet over some 4x4s but make sure it is strong enough to safely bear the weight of the horse otherwise it may break and scare the horse. Place some grain or hay onto the raised plywood to encourage the horse to step onto it and to reinforce the idea that this is a pleasant experience.

Enlist the help of some friends to hold plastic sheets in order to fashion a chute or tunnel for the horse to walk through. Making it wider at one end will simulate a trailer. Again, coax the horse gently to walk through this makeshift chute. When the horse is comfortable with this exercise, try making a tunnel like structure using a plastic sheet and walk your horse through it. Your helpers can stand on hay bates to reach the desired height.

These exercises should help the most difficult to load horses become more comfortable with the whole loading experience as you have broken down the ordeal for them. Breaking down any exercise in this way makes the horse less prone to being overwhelmed by a situation and more accepting.

Work at your horse's pace and remember to remain patient and calm at all times. A lot of gentle encouraging goes a long way and patience is definitely a virtue with horses. Once your horse is going through the above mentioned exercises confidently it's time to introduce the actual trailer.

Use a long lead rope and confidently walk your horse to the trailer without any hesitation, if you hesitate your horse will too. If the horse refuses to load, turn him around and try again. Keep doing this in a firm and calm manner until the horse loads. Once you've managed to coax the horse into the trailer make sure you reward him amply for a job well done.

Calmly lead the horse out and try again, remember to feed and offer the horse treats in the trailer then unload him. Don't leave the horse in the trailer for long periods of time initially; your goal is to make him comfortable being led into the trailer.

Author Resource: Written by Josie Amani
Stal Amani carries the complete line of Equicrystal products at highly competitive prices, please visit our website today to find out how we can help you get the best out of your horse

Article From Pet Article World

The Chausie - Exotic Hybrid Cat

Sunday, January 30, 2011

The Chausie - Is this hybrid cat breed right for you?

A Chausie is also known as Jungle Curl, Stone Cougar, or Mountain Cougar. It is a hybrid of the Domestic Cat (Felis Silvestris Catus) and Jungle Cat (Felis Chaus). Despite their wild appearance, they are domestic. Never heard of a Chausie? You're not alone. This exotic breed is the result of careful breeding between domestic cats and wild jungle cats. Chausies were bred the first time in the 1960's and 1970's as a safer alternative to keeping jungle cats in the house. In the late 1990's a group of people began to breed and develop the hybrid jungle cat. These breeders have made a concentrated effort to acquire the traits of medical and personality that have made this breed apart from others. One of the first things done was to choose a name that describes the breed. The name "Chausie" (pronounced "chow-see") was derived from the Latin name for the Jungle Cat, Felis Chaus.

Sleeping Chausie Kitten by Karen Leigh
Breeding History
The goal in breeding the Chausie remains the same today as it was when they were first created: a breed that has the looks, grace, and the size of a wild jungle cat, but the gentle disposition of a domestic cat. Today, the most common domestic breed used to produce Chausies is the Abyssinian, this is because it has the same look as the jungle cat, but is substantially smaller. Since adult males can reach no less than 25 pounds, Chausies require large spaces and lots of activity. Although the Chausie has not been identified by the CFA, they were granted the status in the International Cat Association (TICA) in 1995. Chausie males in the first and third generations are usually sterile, so only Chausies four generations removed from the wild cat ancestor are considered "show quality" animals. In addition to being extremely loyal to its owners, Chausies have a level of high energy, are champion jumpers, and are extremely playful, making them an ideal companion for young children.

Appearance and Behavior
The Chausie has a wild look, with a long, slender body and large tufted ears. They are elegant in appearance and statuesque. They have gold or yellow eyes and the head is resembles a triangle with three rounded corners. Chausie males typically weigh about 25 pounds, while females tend to be smaller. It is not uncommon for a male Chausie to reach 30 Pounds. They can be found in three colors - brown ticked tabby, solid black and silver-tipped black. Their ears are particularly alert and mobile. Chausies are known for their speed and vertical jump of nearly six feet. The breed has a strong resemblance to its wild ancestor, but is good natured, loyal, intelligent and affectionate, as you would expect in a domestic cat. It is a very active breed, and loves to play with toys or other cats. It keeps this quality in adulthood. Chausie cats are very active and people oriented. They are excellent jumpers and hunters. They need time and attention, particularly interactive play time. Despite their wild ancestry, Chausies are people oriented and affectionate. They tend to be courageous, which can get in trouble if they are allowed outside. They can learn to open doors and cupboards and love to get into things. They tend to be very interactive, as they want to be in the middle of whatever is going on. They are curious and intelligent. They need stimulation and interaction. They are not a breed that does well if left alone all day.

In Egypt, over 3000 years ago, they valued the jungle cat. They admired admired enough to paint murals and honor them in funeral ceremonies, They mummified them to send their pharaohs in the afterlife. These cats were beloved companions and highly revered. It is much the same today with their more domesticated relative, the Chausie. Please consider this article when you decide if the Chausie is the right breed for you.

About Author:
Written by Bob Roberts
I have been an animal lover all my life and a dog trainer for 11 years. I support responsible breeding and care of companion animals. for pet care tips, dog and cat names lists and funny pet pictures. Come share your pets name with us. For more information and help finding a Chausie breeder, please visit the Chausie Breed Committee website. For information on pets, photos, interesting articles, and cat name lists, visit Top Pet Names.

Article Source:

Helping Children Deal with Pet Loss

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Grief is the normal and natural reaction when a pet has died. Everyone, including children perceives loss differently. Grief is a very personal and unique experience. One of the most difficult tasks for grieving children is to learn how to incorporate the death of a pet into their life and to figure out how to go on living without them.

Regardless of their age, children can experience shock, denial, confusion, sadness, anger, blame, withdrawal, wishing, acceptance and healing after a pet dies. Keep in mind that children grieve differently at different ages. Younger children do not understand that death is final, sometimes not until the ages of nine or ten years. It is important that adults support children based on their individual needs as well as each child's unique ability to comprehend the finality of death. The younger the child, the more confusing the finality of death can be.

Friends Forever by Helen Lindsay
It is important to be honest with children, but remember, that sometimes less information is better. Do not tell you child that you sent their pet away, when it has actually died. You could gently let children know that his pet's body was badly hurt in an accident and that its body could not be fixed or that her pet's body stopped working. Parents are often confused about how to explain when a pet is "put to sleep". You could use this term with children, but remember to explain the difference between death and sleep and that their pet will not be coming back.

It not necessary to try to make your child believe that death is final. Understand that acquiring this information is a natural developmental process that happens when your child is ready to accept it. You may even notice that it may seem like your child fully understands that death is final, only to be surprised a few weeks later to learn that they do not. This is perfectly normal.

Believe in your child's ability to create a meaningful goodbye for their pet. Encourage them to make a special goodbye picture, write a letter to their pet or to have a special funeral or memorial service for their beloved pet.

Age Specific Responses

Ages 3-6
Suppose you have to tell your 4 year old that his pet has died. You may say,"Remember how Skippy didn't come home last night? I have some very sad news, Daddy found him this morning and he had been hit by a car. His body was so hurt from the accident that he died. Do you know what it means to die?" Don't be surprised if your child refuses to believe you, or insists that she saw her pet or heard him barking. Gently sympathize with you child, "That would be nice, but Skippy died, and we are all going to miss him very much."

Ages 7-9
Keep in mind that the death of a beloved pet can invoke feelings that can be just as painful as the death of a person for children of all ages. Tell your child the truth about their pet, do not replace it and hope that they won't notice. It is helpful to their growth and development through childhood to learn how to process bad news and begin accepting that death is a natural part of life. Include children whenever possible when disposing of their pet's body and ask them about how they would like to say their final good-bye. Children have the natural ability to balance compassion and creativity to ensure that their pet has a meaningful burial or funeral. They may even wish to invite friends to honor the life of their pet.

Ages 10-12
Children of this age group may want to help you make decisions about the disposal of their pet's body. However, know that they may also be quite squeamish. They may find significance and meaning in rituals that honor others, even their pet. A special pet frame or Pet Loss Tomauro® Kit may be helpful to memorialize their beloved pet. Do not attempt to replace your pet with one that looks similar to lessen a child's grief. Talk to them about the feelings children and adults have after someone or something they love dies to help them process their own feelings.

The bond between a teen and their pet contains such unconditional qualities; therefore the death of a pet can be devastating to a teen. It is likely that teenagers experiencing this type of loss may have enjoyed several years with their pet throughout their childhood. It is important to validate and not minimize this type of loss for teenagers. They can benefit from hugs, offers to help them cope and little notes that show you care. Pet loss can induce many different feelings in teenagers and it is important that you allow them opportunities to process their loss in ways that they feel comfortable, as long as they are safe.

Activities for All Ages

  • Draw a picture about your pet. Have your child tell you about his/her picture.
  • Document funny stories and special memories. Gather together pictures for a scrapbook or journal.
  • Buy a headstone or decorate a rock to place at the burial site.
  • If your pet is cremated, involve your child in the decision about where to scatter or place the ashes.
  • Create a memory box. Decorate the outside. Place inside special momentos, a dog tag, toy, etc...
  • Plant a tree or bush in memory of your pet, especially in an area outside that your pet enjoyed.
  • Donate money to an animal related charity in memory of your pet.

©2003, Hoping Skills Company. All rights reserved.
Cindy Clark, MSW, CCLS is a social worker and certified child life specialist. She is also the co-founder of Hoping Skills Company Sympathy Gift and Grief Resource Center near Boston, MA which creates special pet loss gifts for children and adults. In the past, Cindy spent several years as a child life specialist at a children's hospital before pursuing the role of a children's bereavement coordinator in hospice. Cindy now utilizes her expertise in death and dying to develop special programming for funeral homes and the community. With nearly 15 years in the field Cindy also lends her expertise as a speaker, author, therapist and adjunct professor in the field of grief and bereavement.

Article Source:

Breeding Betta Fish - Betta Fish Care

Friday, January 28, 2011

A Betta fish is a beautiful freshwater fish that comes in thumping color patterns. It is one of the most inexpensive fish to keep and doesn' t require much care at all. You can obtain a good breeding betta fish if you follow these simple requirements.

Betta splendens (betta fish) have a fairly short lifespan, and are most successful as breeders when they under a year old (bettas in pet shops are usually at least six months old). They breed in bubblenests and do not require a large tank or special equipment. Breeding your betta fish in a good environment is very vital.

Male Betta Building a Bubblenest by Scott Kinmartin
Most breeders find that a bare bottomed tank of roughly ten gallons works well, although smaller tanks are also suitable. Ideally the fish should be conditioned prior to breeding, by feeding them a diet of live foods. The water should be at a pH of about 7.0, and temperature around 80 or slightly above.

The male will blow an elaborate bubblenest when he is ready to spawn. The female should be provided with a hiding place, as males may become aggressive during courtship. Even with a hiding place, it is common for the female to lose a few scales or have their fins frayed during spawning.

When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.

The male will continue to tend the bubblenest, spitting eggs that fall out back into the nest. In one to two days the eggs will hatch, and the fry will be visible hanging in the bubblenest with their tails pointing downward. They will feed off their yolk sack for another thirty six hours, during which time the male will continue to pick up any fry that fall out of the nest. The male should be removed within two days after the fry hatch, as they may eat the young once they are free swimming. The fry should be fed a couple of feedings daily of baby brine shrimp or very fine baby food. Tetra makes a dry mixture specifically for egglaying fish, and many pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp. Take care not to overfeed, as the uneaten food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to the fry. Additional information on breeding, raising fry, and photos can be found in the Additional Information section below.

Make sure not to keep two masculine Bettas in a container together because they can fight to death. Females can be kept together though. Many persons think that Bettas cannot be kept with any additional fish but this is not true. Male Bettas and female Bettas can be kept with additional quiet fish genre. Just don't put them in with any aggressive fish that may nip their fins.

Betta fish care and breeding betta fish is not a cumbersome task. It just takes effort, observation and patience.

About the Author: Written by Sylvia Jayakaranvia
Sylvia owns which helps people learn about betta fish care

Permanent Link:

Understanding the Behavior of Gerbils

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Gerbils are popular pets and can provide hours of fun as you watch their antics. Part of this comes from the fact that they are inquisitive creatures, almost to the point of being meddlesome. A new smell or object entering their cage will bring them out of their houses or tunnels. Often if there is a strange noise, a gerbil is more likely to come out of hiding for a look than cower in a safe place.

Gerbil by Mike Lawrence
Gerbils communicate via high-pitched squeaking sounds, often when they are playing or frightened. These are usually inaudible to humans, but very young or old gerbils tend to squeak louder.

Gerbils also communicate by many non-verbal signals. By looking for the use of body language you may be able to interpret what your pet is experiencing.

One common action is what looks like rubbing noses when they meet. This greeting action is actually a licking of each others mouths, as gerbils recognize each other by the taste of their saliva.

Another typical action is called 'drumming'. The gerbil stands up and quickly thumps the ground with its hind legs. This can be a warning signal to other members of the group when danger approaches, or a courting behavior between males and females. This 'drumming' is a learned action and you will sometimes find young gerbils imitating their parents when there is no danger around.

A gerbil that is excited will jump into the air with all four feet. Boxing movements of the front paws sometimes accompany this. These boxing movements are often playful, but sometimes can lead to something more serious. When gerbils fight they tend to box each other with their heads before starting to wrestle.

A gerbil will often sit upright. If it sniffs around while moving its head up and down, the animal is just being curious. However, if it stands in a frozen position with its paws folded as if praying, the gerbil is frightened.

If a gerbil rolls in front of another gerbil while turning its head and offering its throat, it is asking for a cleaning session. The other gerbil usually finds this an irresistible request and a thorough cleaning session ensues. If you see a gerbil thoroughly grooming itself it is a sign that they are relaxed and happy.

Although gerbils are very sociable creatures they can become irritated and want to be left alone. In this case a gerbil will push others away with its head. It will even push your hand away in this fashion.

An understanding of your pet gerbils' body language can add to your enjoyment of keeping these friendly creatures and help assure you of their well being.

About the Author: Written by Andi Wize
Article by Visit for more pets articles, over 100 dog and cat tips, and more!

Permanent Link:

Tips For Buying A Pet Snake

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Buying a snake can be a sizable investment. Getting a snake requires making a commitment to the pet's care and well-being. It is important to do your research so you know that the particular species or breed is something you will enjoy owning in the years to come. Find out how difficult they are to feed and house before you buy. Also find out about the snake's temperament.

Remember that some snakes get extremely large, can be dangerous, and live a long time. Lifespans of over twenty years are not uncommon. Don't assume getting rid of that unwanted reptile will be a piece of cake either.

Pet Snake by CatrinaZ
Another thing to check out before buying is the laws of your particular city. In many places, snakes of certain varieties are restricted as pets.

That being said, it's a good idea to get the enclosure, or vivarium, ready for the snake to move in before buying one. Different species have different requirements in heat, humidity, and size of enclosure, so again, do your homework.

Before buying, look your snake over for indicators of poor health. It's a good idea to hang around the pet store or breeders' for a while, just watching the snakes for clues to individual snakes' personalities. The eyes should be bright and shiny. If they appear dull, it's a sign that the snake is about to shed its skin. Wait until it has shed so you can get a better idea of how it looks.

It is important to get a snake that has been hatched or birthed by a reputable breeder. Make sure the snake is accustomed to eating pre-killed food before you buy it.

The best place to go to find a reputable breeder is your local herpetological society. Most areas have herp clubs for people who are into reptiles. If you're lucky, you might get to attend a herp show in your area. Breeders attend these gatherings and show off their stock. Search online for information about herp shows you could attend. (Herpetology is the branch of biology that studies reptiles and amphibians. "Herp" is a common nickname for these animals.)

When studying the choices of pet snake species, get to know the Latin names. Common names vary with pet stores and with regions. By knowing exactly what species of snake you want, you can save yourself a lot of trouble. Different species of similar snakes, such as boas or pythons, have different temperaments and grow to different sizes. Just knowing it is a boa or a python is not specific enough to know for sure what you are getting.

Finally, there are some people who just should not own pet snakes. These include homes with children under five and anyone with a compromised immune system, because there is a small possibility of a snake carrying salmonella. The large pythons and constrictors can be a danger to young children, too. (And to everyone else, too! Be extremely careful, and know what you're getting into.)

Educate yourself before you start shopping for that cool looking snake. If it’s your first snake, consider getting a And prepare to be in it for the long haul.

About the Author: Gary Ruplinger is the owner of, a site providing information about pet snakes. To learn more about buying a pet snake and my favorite, emerald tree boas, visit us.

Permanent Link:

Which Parrot Is Right For Me?

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Which parrot is right for me? This is a question that you must ask yourself before you think of keeping these lovely birds as pets. It is as important as your decision to have a child. You need to ask - which parrot is right for me - because every parrot has its distinctive temperament and nature. No two parrots are alike.

Blue and Gold Macaws Eating Popcorn by Tambako the Jaguar
Parrots need a lot of attention and love to become adorable pets. Once they bond with you, you will realize how precious they are as pets. Choose your parrot according to your lifestyle.

10 Commandments for choosing the right parrot for your household:

  • No Impulse Shopping: Try not to adopt or purchase a pet on a whim or inspiration. Make it a deliberate, thought-out action.

  • Shop Around: Take the time to learn all about the kind of pet you are considering buying.

  • Visit The Humane Society And Animal Rescue Organizations: Pay a few walk-through trips to your local humane society. Just observe the pet when it is alone with you and try to make a mental list of its positive and negative points.

  • Match Your Pet To Your Life Style: Do you work long hours? Do you have children? Are they mature enough not to be a threat to the pet you choose? If you travel a lot, who will care for the pet while you are away?

  • Match Your Pet To Your Home Environment: How much free space is there? Is there a back yard? Is it fenced? How will your neighbors feel about this new pet? If you rent, what will your landlord think about this pet?

  • Decide Why You Want A Pet: Is this pet going to be a child substitute? Do you want to teach it tricks and interact with it? Do you want to play with it and caress it? Your personality traits are very important.

  • Decide If This Is The Right Time In Your Life To Get A Pet: Frankly consider if this is really the right time in your life to own a (another) pet. If you already have other pets, how will they get along with the new one? How stable are your human relationships? How good is your health?

  • Decide How Long You Want Your Pet To Live: Small parrots live 8-14 years; larger ones 35-60 years.

  • Decide If You Are Able To Meet This Pet’s Specific Needs: It is a good idea to do some research at the library as to how much care your pet will need and visit pet owners. Do you have enough time to properly feed and clean for it? Many pets get bored if they do not have enough one-on-one contact. This boredom can lead to a host of undesirable behaviors.

  • Cost: Besides the initial cost of the pet you may incur considerable expense in purchasing the pet a suitable cage. Over time, the cost of a good diet will far exceed whatever you paid for the parrot. It may need veterinary care and grooming from time to time.

The main species are - parrots, macaws, conures, cockatoos, cockatiels, parakeets and budgies.

Parrots - Parrots are a very popular group of birds. Parrots are intelligent animals who depend on some degree of socialization and training. Different parrots have different needs. See that you cater to all these needs to have a healthy and happy parrot in your house.

Macaws - Macaws have been rightly called winged rainbows. Macaws are flamboyant, colorful, intelligent and captivating birds. Their personalities are legendary. Because of their great beauty and engaging personalities, macaws have been kept in captivity for centuries.

Conures - Conures are known for their sweet dispositions and playfulness. They definitely have a mind of their own. In the wild conures are friendly, peaceful birds and seldom fight with each other.

Cockatoos - Most are colored mainly in white, but others come in grays and pinks, blacks, and in the Palm's case, deep blue. Well-raised cockatoos are adorable; a hog for attention, a socialite , and just a pleasure to have around.

Cockatiels - Cockatiels are ideal for the first time pet owner. They are characteristically happy and cheerful birds, never moody or demanding. They demand to be let on your shoulder for a ride, and make cute noises.

Parakeets - 'Parakeets' means "small parrots". Their small size, bright colors, and cheerful disposition make them perfect pets. It is calming to listen to their quiet chattering and chirping. Some parakeets even learn to talk.

Budgies - Each has its distinctive personality. Some budgies may be sensitive while others might get into mischief at every opportunity. Its popularity is gained mainly by its amazing powers of mimicry, and its antics are very amusing.

Ask yourself again - which parrot is right for me? All parrots need time and patience to make wonderful pets. Some parrots are cheerful all the time, some are often moody. Some play on their own, while some always demand your company. These birds can make your life beautiful and chirpy, but they can also die of heart aches. Think hard before you make your choice!

This article can be re-printed and/or published online or offline for free, provided the website,, is posted along with it. The article must remain intact without any alteration.

About the Author: Medha Roy is the owner of parrots for the last 12 years. She works for

Permanent Link:

Photo Credits:
Parrot by Lynda Giddens
Macaws by Oceana
Sun Conure by James Gray
Cockatoos by Matthew McLarty
Cockatiel by Derek Diaz Correa
Ringneck Parakeet by dingopup
Budgie by Maury McCown

Why Groundhogs Are Terrible House Pets

Monday, January 24, 2011

Thinking about a groundhog as a pet? Please read this article before trapping or charming one into your home. They are demanding animals and quite honestly belong in the wild. Is there any upside? Absolutely. Similar to a dog, my groundhog will lovingly greet me when I come home, but then he hastily scurries back into the crawl space and starts digging. If I had to do it over again, I would have chosen goldfish.

Joe Groundhog by +++CoolValley+++
1. Hibernation. My groundhog hibernates in my basement all winter long. This may sound like a good thing, but when he wakes up in the spring, it's a different story. Each year, right around March Madness, this little whistle pig comes climbing up from the basement. Not only is he very hungry, but he's also looking for a new mate. Having to deal with a hungry groundhog in heat in an urban environment is rough to say the least.

2. Digging. These animals absolutely LOVE to dig. I usually have to replace the carpeting in my townhouse twice a year. Last July he dug right through the dry wall and wedged himself in between the walls. I had to call a contractor to help me remove him AND he bit me during the process. I had to get yet another tetanus shot.

3. Veterinarian Care. Not many vets will even agree to see a "pet" groundhog, let alone have experience in dealing with one. I only brought my little guy to the vet once and it was not a pleasant experience. The vet told me I shouldn't try to domesticate a wild animal and she threatened to call animal control.

4. Not good with kids. When I first got my groundhog, I tried to get him comfortable around children. I assume he perceived the children as threats, which is why he started snarling so viciously. Thankfully no one was hurt. For safety measures, I always put him on a leash when we go out and I usually tie a piece of string around his snout so he doesn't snap at anyone.

5. Special dietary needs. The pet stores don't carry groundhog food, so I just feed him table scraps which may be why he weighs about 45 pounds and is very lethargic. His favorite snack is Bugles and I sometimes let him eat taffy and pretend he is trying to talk.

(No groundhogs were injured during the writing of this article)

Author Resource
Guy Bellefonte is an author with too much time on his hands. Feel free to visit to read more about my latest shenanigans.

Article Source:

The Causes of a Box Turtle Eye Infection

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Box turtles are great pets with real character but they are not the easiest turtles to care for in comparison to other turtles who are much easier to look after. Although I must say all turtles need a certain level of maintenance. When taking on the responsibility of caring for a turtle you will inevitably come up against some health issues, one of them might be a box turtle eye infection.

Eastern Box Turtle by Ed from Ohio
If your turtle is showing signs of an eye infection, it's a good idea to look for other symptoms such as wheezing or gasping, a runny nose and breathing through their mouths. If a number of these symptoms have been spotted, then the signs are pointing at your turtle having a respiratory infection and you will need to take it to see a vet as soon as possible.

A box turtle with swollen eyes may be a case of your turtle being allergic to the substrate in their enclosure. Some turtles are allergic to earthly substrates and will have swelling around the eyes as a result of their allergy towards this sort of bedding. If you're using earth or soil based bedding, then try replacing the bedding with another and monitoring your turtle for a week or so to see if the swelling goes down. If the swelling still persists then you will know that your turtle does not have allergy problems and it could be because they are lacking vitamin A in their diet.

Swelling eyes can be caused by a lack of vitamin A and by simply giving your box turtle more foods rich in vitamin A the swelling can go down considerably. Carrots, parsley, kale and collard greens all have a decent amount of vitamin A and can be added to your turtle's diet to ensure your box turtle receives enough.

If nothing changes and the problems your box turtle is having remains, then it's time to see a vet. A vitamin injection might be necessary to help restore your turtle's health and fix their turtle eye infection altogether.

Author Resource: Written by David Anders
Box turtles are not the easiest turtles to look after but looking after them well has many advantages. For more useful tips and advice on box turtle care don't hesitate to visit

Article From Pet Article World

How Kittens Learn to Hunt

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Cats have been famous for hunting mice and rats for as long as cats and people have been together. As strange as it may seem to some people, cats are not born knowing how to hunt. It is a skill they learn from watching their mothers. If the mother cat is a good hunter, then her kittens will learn to be good hunters. Interestingly, kittens seem to learn the best from their mothers. They do not seem to learn as well or as quickly from watching other adult cats.

Cat and Mouse by Urban Hippie Love
At about five or six weeks of age, a mother cat will begin teaching her kittens how to hunt. At first she brings dead mice to the kittens. She will eat some of the mice in front of the kittens. In this way she is showing them that mice are their prey and that they are good to eat. As time goes on the kittens begin to play with the dead mice their mother brings them. Before long the kittens are flinging the dead mice around and pouncing on them. It's a good idea to stand clear of them when they're at this stage. You might get smacked by a flying mouse if you don't!

After awhile, the mother starts bringing mice that are still half alive and releases them for the kittens to practice. Very soon the kittens are leaping on and flinging these mice around as confidently as they did the previous dead ones their mother brought them. Then, mother start bringing live, healthy mice and releases them for the kittens to practice on. The first time the mother cat releases a live mouse, and it tries to run off, there's immediate bedlam among the kittens. Wildly excited, the kittens flying around trying to leap onto the running mouse zigging and zagging between them. If the mouse escapes the kittens, the mother will usually swat it back into play. By this time the kittens are so over excited they're leaping at anything that moves. The mouse, a blade of grass, a blowing leaf or even each other, are all fair game to the kittens. Not surprisingly, the mouse often escapes during these early lessons.

As the lessons progress the kittens become more discriminating in their targets and develop their skills in catching the quick and agile mice. These lessons don't always go smoothly. One kitten got the surprise of her life when a large mouse she was chasing suddenly sat up in front of her and began scolding her at the top of its lungs. The mouse was apparently so fed up with the whole business that it actually jumped at the kitten. The startled kitten fell over backward and the mouse raced off to safety. Live and learn.

Eventually, the mother cat will decide that the kittens are ready for their first real hunt. She will take them out to a good location that she knows will have plenty of mice for the kittens to practice on. She does not demonstrate her hunting technique to the kittens. Instead, lets them develop their own unique styles on these hunting forays. Each kitten discovers the techniques that work best for them. By the end of their lessons the kittens have become fine mousers in their own right.

Author Resource: Written by David Peterson
For more information on cat health issues, visit Jinga's Cat Articles site. Visit also Jinga's Pet Article World.

Article From Pet Article World

Irish Draught Horse - Not Your Typical Draft Horse

Friday, January 21, 2011

The Irish Draught horse is the national horse of Ireland. The name Irish Draught may be misleading since the breed is a lighter, more free moving animal than the traditional image of the heavy draft horse. The Irish Draught is neither as massive nor as heavily feathered as its name implies.

The breed has been in existence for at least a century or more and originated from the Irish Hobby Horse, which was a small ambling horse that was similar to the primitive Garrano and Sorraia horses of Northern Spain and Portugal. Clydesdale, Thoroughbred and half bred sires were used on the local Draught mares in the 1800's and early 1900's. Native Connemara Pony was also added to form the breed known as the Irish Draught today.

Irish Draught Horse in Killarney by David Kelleher
Traditionally, the Irish Draught Horse was the farm horse in Ireland and so it had to be versatile enough for use as a hunter or ridden or cart pulling and plowing. It had to be docile, strong and economical to keep. The traditional winter feed for the Irish Draught Horse was young gorse put through a chaff cutter, boiled turnips, and bran or meal of some sort that could be spared from the cattle.

But even for all its usefulness, it has nearly gone extinct on several occasions. During times of poverty and famine in Irish history, many breeders gave up registering their animals and hundreds of Irish Draughts were going to the slaughter houses each week until there were very few left. The conservation status of this equine is considered rare. However, today the Irish Draught is more sought after for its breeding qualities with other equines rather than with itself. In England, brood mares are considered to be excellent dams for the Irish Sport Horse when mated with a Thoroughbred stallion. Now the Irish Draught stallion is being used more and more to get extra bone and substance in the progeny of the lighter type mare.

The Irish Draught Horse Society of North America (IDHS NA) was established in 1993 to assist in the conservation and appreciation of the Irish Draught Horse and its successful crossbred, the Irish Draught Sport Horse throughout the world. The IDHS NA maintains the studbooks for qualified Irish Draught and part Irish Draught horses in North America.

On their website can found information regarding the rarity of the breed. The following is a direct quote from Report to The Irish Draught Horse Society, Ireland prepared at the Animal Genomics Laboratory, School of Agriculture, Food Science and Veterinary Medicine, College of Life Sciences, University College Dublin, Belfield, Dublin 4, Ireland; by Angela McGahern, Patrick Brophy, David MacHugh & Emmeline Hill and released in February, 2006.

The Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) of the United Nations classifies the Irish Draught (ID) horse as an endangered breed due to the declining population size. Falling purebred numbers, combined with a serious threat of genetic erosion, suggest that the ID population is in urgent need of conservation. Genetic diversity is an important component in the consideration of conservation strategies and measures of genetic diversity are becoming widely used in breed management systems. The Irish Draught Horse Society must now identify and preserve its rare bloodlines and explore the genetic resources available to preserve the broadest possible genetic base.

In terms of physical characteristics, the Irish Draught Horse stands between 15.1 and 16.3 hands. Any solid color is acceptable, including grays, but white above the knees or hocks is not desirable. The horse has a graceful head and a large kind eye. The neck is set high and carried proudly, showing a good length of rein.

The strong limbs have particularly short cannon bones and despite the power, this equine is free moving and not ponderous. The feet are like those of a hunter and not like those of a cart horse. The feet are one of the horse's most important features and they are the reason why the Irish Draught is required for the breeding show jumpers; the feet have to withstand the concussion from jumping, often on hard surfaces.

The traveling action of the breed is smooth without exaggeration and not heavy or ponderous. The walk and trot are straight and true with good hock flexion and shoulder freedom.

It is hoped that the traditional Irish Draught Horse can make a comeback. It has an intelligent and gentle nature and is noted for its docility and common sense, and has a proud bearing, as well as being an important ingredient in the creation of the Irish Draught Sport Horse.

Author Resource: Written by Crystal A.
Crystal is a writer for, classifieds of Irish Draught Horses for sale ( in Ireland (, UK (, etc.

Article From Pet Article World

Is It Safe to Feed Raw Meat to Dogs?

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Many pet owners worry when they see their dog eating raw meat. But it should be understood that raw foods are what canines are meant to eat actually. Can you only imagine if wolves and coyotes had to wait for someone to cook and/or process their food!

Dog with a Chicken Leg by Simon Helle Nielsen
The digestive systems of dogs are far different than those of humans. Domesticated dogs, if given the chance, will consume small wild animals they catch in their entirety. We've had many dogs over the years and live in an area with a high population of squirrels and rabbits. I cannot recall the numbers of times that a dog has caught one and consumed it completely. By completely I mean everything. When one of our dogs eats a rabbit, there is nothing left. The head, the hide, the feet, and the insides are all gone when they finish.

However, to make a point of just how "OK" it is for dogs to eat, not only raw meat, but also spoiled meat, we have one dog who catches and buries the rabbits. She will not eat it then. She will catch it and kill it but then go and secretly bury it. Whether she forgets where it is or just does not care is a question. But she leaves it for either her or some other dog to find weeks later. Needless to say, by that time it is quite rank. But still, the dog who finds it will eat it even then with no noticeable effects.

Although a dog's digestive system may tolerate raw rabbits fine, there is a possibility they can get worms from eating rabbits. The worms are easily gotten rid of though and can also be caught simply by the dog digging and being outside in general. But my point is that it is not only fine for your dogs to eat raw meat, it is better for them in most cases with respect to their overall health and also with respect to their dental health. Tartar does not build up on canine teeth in those who consume raw chicken for example as their main food. The soft bones of the uncooked chicken act to remove the tartar from the teeth and keep them clean.

Many people actually buy only raw chicken for their dogs, grind it up bones and all, and portion it out into bags in the freezer. This is far healthier for canines than consuming the processed dog food that most are fed.

Author Resource
Written by Steve Weber
Visit Cactus Canyon for more details about keeping your dog's teeth clean.

Article From Pet Article World

Making Paralyzed Dogs Enjoy Life

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

One of the reasons for a dog to be called man's best friend is its ability to feel the same emotions that humans feel. This can be feelings of happiness, sadness, anger just like its master. In fact, this animal can very well sympathize with its master. And with their antics, they are more likely to bring out smiles from their masters.

Nevertheless, when it's the dog itself that gets injured, the human master should be the one to sympathize with his pet. If these are paralyzed, especially from the midsection to the hind legs, it may be necessary for them to use carts for dogs.

Lizzie Pops a Wheelie by jimnista
People who care a lot for the health of their pets must not let paralysis let down the spirits of their ever active pooches. They must look for ways to introduce solutions by asking the veterinarian and allowing for some surgical procedures if needed.

Nevertheless, not all cases of paralysis can be remedied by any veterinary help. Some of these might even be incurable and are quite permanent. Under these circumstances, the better thing to do is to look for ways for the dogs to still live a happy life despite the deficiency. This is when the value of carts for dogs can be truly appreciated by the master and the pet as well.

Dogs on wheels are no longer strange sights nowadays. As time passes, even pets have benefitted from the scientific breakthroughs created by humans. Equipment like wheelchairs are no longer limited for humans.

There have been new inventions that would let dogs use these too. Because of this, pet owners have become less hesitant in putting wheelchairs on their dogs if they suffer disabilities, especially the more serious ones such as paralysis. It might, however, take time before these dogs would get used to wearing the contraptions.

As soon as dogs begin to appreciate the wheelchairs attached on them, they would begin to move around with great confidence. Such dogs on wheels would start to take short strolls as if they don't suffer from the disability.

Of course, this could only mean nothing else but that they are enjoying life as much as they would without their unfortunate condition. There might be some limitations in the way they move since they have the wheelchair to drag around. However, pet owners can be sure that their dogs would no longer mind such minor encumbrances.

Author Resource: Written by Sylvan Newby
You truly don't want your pet dog to be injured and unhappy. But you need not worry at all. Learn more about Dogs on Wheels by visiting this site:

Article From Pet Article World

Birman Cats

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

The Legend of the Birman
The Birman cat is a beautiful breed of cat that is believed to have come from the country of Burma, where it was kept as the pet of trusted priests. According to legend, the guardians of Burmese temples were actually cats that had long white hair and yellow eyes. The goddess of the main temple had blue eyes. In this legend, the head priest was killed during an attack and one of the guardian cats placed its paws on him. Suddenly, the cat's white fur became golden and its eyes turned as blue as those of the goddess of the temple. Seven days after this occurred, the guardian cat died.

Birman Cat by Fabio Gismondi
Aside from the legend, the known history of the Birman cat is that a pair of these cats were shipped from Burma to France in the early 1900s. While the male cat did not survive the journey, the female arrived safely and was actually pregnant at the time of arrival. This established the Birman cat in the western world and the French cat registry began to recognize this cat as a distinct breed in 1925. England and the Cat Fanciers' Association took a bit more time to recognize the breed, with England recognizing it in 1966 and the CFA recognizing it in 1967.

Description and Personality
The Birman cat is often large and long, with long hair. The hair has a silky texture and does not become matted. The face, legs, and tail are darker in color than the rest of the body with seal point, blue point, and chocolate point popular. The Birman cat has pure white feet and a full chin. In terms of personality, the Birman cat is a wonderful pet. If you are busy, the cat will not bother you. If you have time to play, the Birman cat is active and playful. The Birman would make a wonderful pet for people of all ages and adapts well to most households.

Author Resource
Written by Tiki Catson
The Cat Breeds Guide Network is a complete Web site that features all breeds of cats, articles, and links to cat related resources and shopping. Visit today to learn more about Birman cats.

Article Source:

Is Zebra Finch Breeding Art Or Fun?

Monday, January 17, 2011

Understanding the minimum daily requirements of Zebra Finch breeding is all it takes to raise your own little finches. The birds think it's a great idea and breed freely in suitable cage environments.

When the birds are both healthy and happy in their environment, breeding will take place if steps are not taken to prevent it. It is best to put a mature pair of finches into a cage that is private, as large as possible, provided with nesting places and materials, and that has lots of natural or simulated sunlight.

Zebra Finch Pair by Ian Bertram
The pair should be over six months old, although finches will mate at as early as 11 weeks. This is not recommended, since the bird is not fully mature at that age. The cage should measure at least 16x16x20 inches, and can be as much larger as you want, since more space is always better. If you have more than one pair in a single cage, the cage should be a 'flight' of more than 3x3x6 feet. Otherwise the birds will fight. You must also provide at least 14 hours of natural sunlight or its equivalent in full spectrum light a day, which is the amount needed to stimulate the breeding instinct.

You will know if the birds are ready to mate by watching the male's dance; he will sing and bounce on the perch to woo his lady. If she is responsive, you need to provide one or more nests, and a selection of nesting materials. Place the nests as high on the cage as possible.

These birds prefer enclosed nests, with a single entrance/exit, and it is a good idea to hang them outside a cage door to save the indoor space for the birds. Dried, chemical-free grass, special breeding cotton, and short strings will be what the male needs as he builds the nest, looking to the female for approval. String must be short or the birds will get tangled in it; no longer than two inch pieces of soft string like unraveled burlap are best.

After the nest is lined, the female will lay an egg a day up to six or eight. If you are using the wicker basket nests, you will have to watch closely to see if the process has started. Wooden box nests with hinged tops make this viewing, and future cleaning, an easy task.

After laying an egg a day for six to eight days, the female will start sitting, with some help from the male in this incubating period. Mark the date down, because the eggs should hatch in 14 days. If they don't hatch within 20 days of the start of incubation, they will not hatch and must be discarded. The female bird will begin the process over a few days after she loses the first clutch. You need to discard the eggs but leave the nest if the lining is clean and dry.

All this time, you must pay particular attention to keeping clean water and fresh seed available, as well as supplementing the grit with calcium-rich oyster shell and hanging up a cuttle bone. Don't forget the long hours of natural or simulated daylight.

After hatching, the young finches will fly in about three weeks and be able to feed themselves after four. They should then be removed to a different cage, since the parents will be starting over with a new family. The male and female should be separated if you don't want more babies. Adjoining cages will allow the pair to see each other for company.

Zebra Finch breeding is easy if the basic rules are followed. Much information and support is available through the National Finch and Softbill Society, based in Tennessee.

Author Resource
Written by Grace Hutchings
Want to find out more about zebra finch breeding, then visit Grace Hutchings's site on how to choose the best pet finch for your needs.

Flame Angelfish Care

Sunday, January 16, 2011

The flame angelfish (Centropyge Loriculus) is probably the most popular member of the genus centropyge in the saltwater aquarium hobby nowadays. It owes this fact to the beauty this saltwater aquarium fish possesses. It is a bright mixture between orange and red with blue accents toward the end of its anal and dorsal fins.

Flame Angelfish by Ken Tam
Vertical black stripes that vary in number are also present across its body. While most flame angelfish are similar in appearance, they typically vary with regards to the number of stripes present along with the overall color. Some have more orange than others.

True Hawaiian flame angels are a bright red all over their body with very little to no traces of orange present. Their stripes are also a lot more narrow than other variants. Most angelfish come from Christmas and Marshall Islands however, as Hawaiian variants are rarely seen in the marine aquarium hobby.

With proper acclimation and feeding, they can become a resilient fish to have. In the wild they graze on algae, small crustaceans and algae and are known to nip on an assortment of corals. With regards to coral nipping, it really is the luck of the draw as they can abruptly gain a taste for specific corals overnight.

A great countless marine aquarium hobbyists have kept them in full reef aquariums and have gotten away with it but there is always a risk. And once they start nipping, you will have to deal with removing them from the reef aquarium by some means, a task that is highly undesirable as it generally means dismantling the rock structure if a trap does not work.

They are not demanding feeders and will try out a broad diversity of foods in captivity. Once they have established themselves in the aquarium, they can become quite a bully. They do not tolerate the presence of other members of the dwarf angelfish family and will likely hound another flame angelfish to death if kept together in a small tank.

Author Resource
Written by Pima Laga
The Flame Angelfish along with other members of the genus Centropyge are touched upon in the authors marine aquarium fish website.

Reincarnation - People Are Animals, Too

Saturday, January 15, 2011

I have a theory. It's unsubstantiated, but what theory isn't? It has to do with animals - cats, dogs and birds - your garden variety house pet. Although it's become more apparent those animals of the wild kingdom variety fall into this spectrum also.

Okay. Are you ready? I have concluded that animals are the product of reincarnation.

Possible Reincarnation of Julia Child by funkypancake
Let's face it. How many times have we looked at a cat or dog lounging in the sun, just as relaxed as can be, and said to ourselves, "Now that's the life. I wish I was sleeping in a nice, warm spot, instead of mowing this grass as the sweat pours into my eyes and blinds me to the point that I run the mower over the daffodils it took me three years to finally get to bloom?" Who's to say this wasn't heard by some higher authority and was granted to that person at the time of their demise?

Dogs, I believe, were at one time, native language speaking individuals, because of the way they understand what you're saying to them. You call them, they come. You tell them to sit, they obey. Lie down, beg, stay - these commands are said to them in their native tongues and are understood.

I also feel that dogs know they are reincarnated. They're always running and wagging their tails and licking your face and happy as if they were glad to be alive again. (Even if it means they have to eat their meals from a bowl on the kitchen floor.)

Cats, on the other hand, are reincarnated from countries other than our native speaking language. They never listen to what you say or do what you ask of them. So, it's safe to conclude that cats either do not understand the language being spoken to them, or they are reincarnated teenagers.

Birds are tricky. Some can speak the native tongue, others prefer to gaze at themselves constantly in their little bird mirrors. So, we can assume that birds are either bilingual, or they have been reincarnated after working as J.C. Penny catalogue models.

As I mentioned before, it's possible that some animals from outside the house pet arena can also be considered a result of being former Homo sapiens.

Take, for example, the pig - an oversized, sloppy animal that enjoys wallowing in the mud and thus perpetuating low self-esteem. Easily recognizable, in the human form, as a Sumo wrestler, or game show host.

The horse, I surmise, was some sort of athlete in a prior existence; probably in track and field, during the original Roman Olympic era. That, or the way they steal my money at the track, an attorney.

Other animals that I feel were brought to us from a reincarnated state of time: The monkey - probably a politician. (They're fun to watch, but nobody takes them seriously.) The turtle - a former emergency room attendant. The bushmaster - unmistakably, at one time, a village idiot.

There are, of course, others too numerous to mention, and we probably just scratched the surface of this theoretical development. I just hope that I may have sparked some interest in what could conceivably be a breakthrough in the understanding of our little furry and feathered friends.

So, keep in mind, the next time you punish that "pooch" of yours. That very well could have been your grandfather's Uncle Leo you caught drinking out of the toilet.

Grandfather's Uncle Leo by Laurel Fan

Author Resource
Written by Carl Megill

Article Source:,-Too&id=1372286

Tips on Camping With Your Dog

Friday, January 14, 2011

Summertime is the one time of year when people leave the comforts of their home and bed to sleep in canvas shelters with little between them and the rocks on the ground. Some will sleep in sleeping bags and a few will take along an air up mattress, which makes camping really comfortable. Packing for a weekend camping trip usually includes a tent, cooking utensils, food, drink, blankets, oil lamps or electric if you are going to a camping area that includes utilities and a few other odds and ends. When you are camping with your dog, however there are a few more things you will need.

Camping with Tucker in Montana by Starr Hendon
Most places you camp will require that you keep your pet restrained while on the grounds. When hiking, swimming and such a leash will suffice. However, once you are back at camp you may something a bit longer to ensure your pet stays at your site. An anchor and tether works quite well in most cases, chains and leather tethers give your dog plenty of room to wander without getting into trouble.

If you have a smaller pet, or one who is really well behaved you can purchase a portable pen to use at your campsite. These are usually made of lightweight material and while they provide a place for your pet, if they are truly intent on getting out chances are good they will. You could of course anchor the pen to prevent escape.

Food and Water Dishes
You already know your pet will need to eat and drink while you are camping, but do not forget to bring the dishes! Eating off the ground can lead to parasite infestations or worse so be sure to bring something clean from home. Some campgrounds will give you access to running water, others will not be sure you know before you leave so you can bring along bottled water if necessary.

Regardless of where you go camping you will need to bring along proof of current immunizations and perhaps registration for your pet. Again this will depend a great deal on where you decide to go camping, however even if you camp in the woods it is wise to carry current shot records as you never know when an accident could occur and you need to visit a vet in unfamiliar territory.

Pest Repellant
Summertime brings fun, sun and entertainment as well as fleas, ticks and mosquitos. Dog owners generally place their dogs on an annual pest treatment from the veterinarian. However, camping is usually done near water and where there is water there are mosquitos which carry things like west Nile virus and a dreaded heart worm infestation. Mosquito repellants for humans will work, however dogs tend to lick their fur, which means these chemicals could make them ill. Natural repellants are actually a better choice.

Camping with your best friend can be a wonderful experience for you and your pet, provided you go prepared. To make your life easier it is a good idea to make a list of all items, by the time you pack for you and the dog you could overlook an item or two.

About the Author: Written by Kelly Marshall
Find hundreds more articles like this at - where you can unique dog supplies like small dog collars, dog feeders, and more cool dog gear that you'll never find at your local pet store.

Permanent Link:

Birds - Parakeet Care

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Parakeets are one of America's most popular birds today. They make great pets because they are very friendly, have a cheerful disposition and are very entertaining. They also have very beautiful bright color varieties. Parakeets don't require a lot of maintenance or money.

Parakeets are also known as Budgies or Keets. They are one of the smallest members of the parrot family. They originate from a desert-like area of Australia where it doesn't rain much, which makes parakeets very hardy birds. There are a variety of colors, such as yellows, dark greens, pastel blues, purples, solid whites and many combinations of several colors. The average life span of parakeets is 8 to 12 years.

Orange-chinned Parakeets by Rich Young
In the wild, parakeets are flocking birds so they are used to companionship, so it is best to get more than one. However, keep the birds separate when they are young so that they will get used to humans. When they get older then you can put them together. If you plan on keeping just one bird, you should play with it as much as possible. You should also put a mirror in the cage so that they won't feel so alone when you aren't there.

You should choose the largest cage that you can afford for your parakeet. It needs to be large enough so that he can comfortably move around. You will also need room for toys and perches. The minimum size is 20" X 12" X 18". Parakeets are very playful and inquisitive. Because of this, they enjoy playing with a variety of toys. They especially love shiny objects, bells, bright colors and objects they can move around with their beak. Be sure that the toys you purchase don't contain any small parts that your bird could swallow and choke on.

Lots of parakeets take a long time to build trust in their owners. It will probably be very shy when you first get one. Every day you should just put your finger in the cage in front of the bird. Eventually it will get the courage to get on your finger. If you have the patience your bird will learn to trust you, but some birds even can take months to build trust.

Parakeets love to sing and chirp. They seem to love when you play music and will often sing along. When you are gone, you might want to leave the radio on for them. Most parakeets won't learn to talk. However, it is possible to teach some of them if you are consistent.

Parakeets always need fresh food and water in the cage. They are vegetarians and like seeds, greens and fruits. Their food should have a large variety of millet seeds and grain. Ready made seed mixes are sold at pet stores and supermarkets. Other than the seed mix, you should also provide fresh greens. However, do not leave these in the cage long or they will spoil.

The best way to keep your bird healthy is by providing a good diet and by keeping the water and cage clean. Make sure you clean and sanitize all the toys and accessories in the cage also. Birds are very good at hiding illnesses so if you think your bird is acting strangely at all, be sure to take it to the vet.

Parakeets are fun to watch and make a great companion pet. If you provide the correct care for your bird and spend plenty of time with it, you will have a great pet for a long time to come.

Author Resource
Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Birds [].

Article Source:

Which Hamster Breed is the Most Popular?

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

I suppose it's only fair that the very first hamster to be formerly introduced, around 1930, the Syrian hamster has ascended to the throne of the most popular of all of the hamster breeds, out ranking both other standard hamsters and dwarf hamsters alike. They were originally used as laboratory test animals, primarily because of their friendly demeanor and propensity toward rapid reproduction. Luckily however, they eventually made their way out of the lab and into the pet shops, and we're all certainly happy with that transition.

Teddy Bear Hamster Posing Pretty by Alix Clinkingbeard
Contributing to their huge popularity is their easy handling qualities, which means that, unlike their dwarf hamster cousins, they are considered a great pet for children. They're the largest of the pet hamsters stretching out somewhere near 6 inches long with some females reaching a maximum length of 7 inches. The typical lifespan of the Syrian hamster is between 24 and 30 months with a few exceptions living as long as 48 months.

Probably best known as the Golden hamster or Fancy hamster, the Syrians show up in a mixture of colors and popular subspecies names. In the wild, the natural coloration of the Syrian is golden brown or "agouti", which means dark and light banded hairs. In their natural setting, the Syrians are solitary animals and quite territorial. And, they're no different in captivity, as they are extremely non-social towards other hamsters and can quickly engage in a fight to the death when caged together. They may get along with others when quite young, but by the age of 10 weeks, it's essential that they be caged separately.

The variety of colors, common to the captive bred Syrian hamster, serves as the foundation for the various names popularized by the lucrative pet shop market. The European Black Bear hamster, Honey Bear hamster, Panda Bear hamster, Teddy Bear hamster, Polar Bear hamster, Dalmatian hamster, and Black Bear hamster. Regardless of the name, it's important to remember that a Syrian is a Syrian. They are sociable to humans, but aggressive and deadly to each other, except when very young. So, no matter the color, the rules for safety still apply.

The Golden hamster is a nocturnal (nighttime) or to be more accurate, a Crepuscular (dusk and dawn) member of the rodent family. This means they spend most of the daylight hours snuggled up in their hideaways fast asleep. But, as the sun begins to decline behind the horizon, these little critters come alive and begin their ritualistic foraging and exercising. Out in the wild this is the safest time of the day for the hamster to be roaming about in search of food, as predators are most active either during the hours of daylight or the dead of night, leaving dusk and dawn as the least likely time to be discovered and devoured.

As you'll discover with most hamsters, the Syrian is relatively low maintenance. They clean themselves (no bath recommended or required), need a reasonably inexpensive cage and consume modest amounts of specialized hamster food and treats. Fresh fruits and vegetables supplement the diet and are served in moderation. The only required equipment is the water bottle with metal tube spout to provide an ever-ready supply of fresh water and the incredibly important, hamster wheel that facilitates the essential requirement for life sustaining physical fitness exercise.

Copyright 2010 Walter Tekman. All rights reserved. Please feel free to share the entire contents of this article with your friends or post it on your site as long as it is left intact with all links unchanged, including this notice.

Walter Tekman is a pet hamster enthusiast and author of The Best Ever Guide To Dwarf Hamsters available at He spends much of his time advising others on how to setup and maintain the perfect hamster habitat, while selecting the best possible hamster as a pet. Go to for his complimentary 10-day free email mini-course.

Article Source:

Springer Spaniel - The Best Choice For a Pet?

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

There are many reasons to get a dog and there are many types of dog to choose from. Here we will take a look at some of the up-sides to dog ownership as well as the downsides, particularly with regard to choosing and training Springer Spaniels.

Most people know the therapeutic value of stroking a dog. It calms the old and infirm and gives a general feeling of well-being even if the dog is not their own. Calm dogs, often Labradors, are brought into homes for the elderly or ill, and the inhabitants feel better for being able to stroke these gentle creatures. Blood pressure goes down and stress diminishes. This is a medicine with positive side effects. It does have a drug like quality as the patient looks forward to the next visit of their four legged friend with the soft, understanding eyes and wagging tail.

Springer Spaniel by xan latta
Consequently, your family dog can do the same for you. No breed more so than a Springer. They are not usually used for visiting the old or infirm but they are probably more intuitive than most dogs. Happy to run around all day and excited by anything going on in the family, they are also ready to listen to any problem you have. When nobody else will listen, the Springer will sit and listen, head cocked to one side, trying so hard to understand. He does not disagree or answer back to the irrational questions or statements. The perfect friend and companion.

However, the perfect friend and companion can sometimes have his drawbacks. Rain, snow or sleet does not qualify as an excuse for the Springer to miss his walk, after all, he loves water. He has more than his fair share of energy for a dog of his size and if he is not able to expend it, he will think of something else to do. Springers, like all dogs will find something to chew, and it will probably not be the dog chew you bought him. A more likely target to the Springer is one of the new leather shoes you have just bought.

One of the reasons to have a Springer as a family pet is the way he loves to be with all the family. Conversely, when separated from his family 'pack', he will become stressed and anxious. It may help to have another dog as a companion for him, however this may just result in you having to clean up two 'separation anxieties' instead of one when you get home. He will see being left alone as a form of punishment, as in any animal pack, where a disgraced member will be excluded.

There are two types of Springer. One type has been breed as a working dog, the other as a show dog. One difference between the two, is that in very rare occasions the show dog may have rage disorder. A dog with this problem will be happy and friendly one moment and then without any provocation or reason may suddenly attack blindly. This is not to be confused with a dog who gets so excited that he won't listen to commands, this can be fixed by a good training course. Rage disorder has not been identified in the working strain of Springers.

All in all, Springers make a great family pet. He will try to understand what you want from him, in return you must understand his needs.

Author Resource
Written by J.M. Rodgers
It is important to make sure that you and your dog not only get off to a good start together but also maintain a good ongoing relationship. To accomplish this you need to learn how a dog thinks and apply some simple training techniques and re-inforce them consistently.

To help you there is a lot of information to get started training springer spaniels as well as all other breeds at our website, Poochdogs. We also have a free dog training ebook guide which you can download completely free of charge right now to get you started and have many other free resources for you which we include in our regular free newsletters. Register now and get your FREE guide at

Article Source:

Pet Snake Care

Monday, January 10, 2011

Before you make that trip to the pet store, ask yourself "Why do I want a snake?" Is it because you're trying to impress your friends? Is it because you saw a killer anaconda in a popular film, and you'd like something along those lines to show people when they come over? Do you want to shock or scare your parents and other relatives during holiday gatherings? Thanks to a nearly age-old role in mythology, folklore, religion, and, more recently, horror films and music videos, snakes are in high demand as pets. Unfortunately, many people want a snake for all the wrong reasons and fail to properly educate themselves about pet snake care before giving in to the impulse to accept a snake from a friend or buy one at the store. A snake is not a fashion accessory, party trick, or practical joke. Snakes are highly sensitive and, for the most part, wild creatures who should only be kept as pets for the sheer pleasure keeping and observing a snake can bring. If you fit the profile of a true snake fancier, then you've no doubt studied up a bit already. If you're still deciding whether or not a snake is the pet for you, learn more with the following information.

Female Red Milk Snake by Jonathan Crowe
Snakes, like all pets, have their own unique set of requirements when it comes to temperature, housing, and dietary needs. The size of your snake's enclosure depends, of course, on the size of the snake you plan on owning. A good way to judge the amount of space your snake will need is to allow ½ square foot of floor space for every foot of snake, provided the snake is under 6 feet long. For snakes over 6 feet in length, ¾ a square foot of floor space is adequate. Snakes need to feel secure in their new home, as they will spend a lot of time basking or hiding. A good solution is to get an adequately sized aquarium and secure the top with a pegboard to allow for proper ventilation. Mesh should not be used as a curious snake can rub his nose rose on such material. The furnishings in a snake cage can be relatively simple. Line the cage bottom with aspen shavings, reptile carpet (or Astro turf), or pea gravel. Add a hiding place such as a pre-made "cave," or a cave you make yourself out of various sized rocks to your pet snake care list along with a small potted plant, whether fake or real, and a shallow dish of water for soaking.

As snakes are cold blooded, their body temperatures depend directly upon the temperature in their environment. Snakes have no self-cooling or heating systems. They simply move into and out of the heat. It's imperative, then, that you maintain a daytime temperature of between 80 and 85 degrees and a nighttime temperature between 65 and 75 degrees in your snake's tank. An adhesive thermometer and a heat lamp or cage heater that goes beneath the cage will help you accomplish these things. A snake that is even a few degrees below its optimal body temperature will often stop eating.

Speaking of eating, you should probably reconsider owning a snake unless you're 100% sure that you can handle feeding live or dead mammals to your pet. Smaller snakes will eat baby mice (called "pinkies") and medium to large snakes will eat either pinkies or adult mice. Larger snakes may require larger meals in the form of baby chicks or baby rabbits. Figuring out what your snake wants out of his meal may take some doing. Some snakes are terrified of live food and will only eat a mouse after its neck has been humanely broken (this kills the mouse instantly). Some snakes enjoy hunting and will not eat food that has already been killed, and some snakes don't care either way. While most snakes can live for weeks without food, it's best to feed an adult snake once a week or every ten days. Baby snakes should be fed more often to support their growing bodies. Check with a specific care guide for your snake to figure out how much food to offer your pet per feeding.

Once you've ascertained that your motivations for snake ownership are driven only by your love for these creatures, use your newfound patience to spend time searching for a variety of snake that fits your budget and your personality. Only buy a snake from a reputable source, and make sure you've either got an excellent book on pet snake care handy or an expert snake keeping acquaintance who can address any questions you may have and help you on the road to blissful snake ownership.

About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: provides advice and information on all aspects of pet care for all types of pets including dogs, cats, ferrets and others and makes it easier for pet owners to choose the best solution for their companion's care.
For answers to all your pet care questions, please visit:

Article Source: