It's a Dog's Life

It's a Dog's Life
Furry Four-legged Fun

Family Felines

Family Felines
Cats Rule and Dogs Drool

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?
Ride 'Em Cowgirl(boy)

Birds of a Feather

Birds of a Feather
Flights of Fancy

How to Handle Horse Injuries

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Five element horse temperament typing can help you if your horse gets a painful injury because different types will respond differently and you need to be able to anticipate these reactions. It is important to consider your horse's temperament when you examine and treat the injury to avoid further damage to your horse and yourself. In my vet career I have seen so many cases where a horse was slightly injured but became seriously injured by poor handling. Here are some things to consider for each Five Element horse temperament.

Horse Having Its Wounds Treated by Kate Sumbler
Fire - These horse temperaments have very low pain thresholds and will be very sensitive around even mild wounds. Fire horses are generally polite and will not try to hurt you as you examine and treat there wound but you will want to go slowly and assure them you will not hurt them more. Don't hesitate to reach for mild sedation to clean and treat injuries in the Fire horse temperament if what you need to do is going to be painful. Over restraining this horse temperament in stocks or tight spaces can cause them to panic and further injure themselves. A twitch may work for a very quick procedure if sedation is not an option but don't expect it to help with extended painful treatments.

Earth - Earth horse temperaments can handle pain quite well and they tend to be very cooperative in being treated. Minor injuries can usually be treated with no sedation and minimal restraint. These horse will rarely try to hurt anyone if they are handled with calm purpose to get the wound managed. Earth horse temperament individuals have a tendency to get excessive swelling in the injured tissues so wrap the injury when possible. Hand walking as soon is possible is good to keep these horses moving to improve circulation because left to their own devices they will tend to stand around and not exercise.

Metal - Metal horse temperaments tolerate the best of all horse temperaments because they have very high pain thresholds. If they are used to being handled they need little or no sedation or restraint for even moderate injuries. Metal horse temperaments do, however, tend to develop excessive scar tissue so it is important to stabilize lower leg wounds with heavy bandages or casts. Extra vit E and selenium horse supplements can be good to help with healing. After the injury appears healed be sure there is not scar tissue restricting the surrounding tissues.

Water - This horse temperament does not handle pain well and they panic even with the anticipation of pain. Don't even think about trying a twitch on this type horse because you will simply bring up their fear level. Go for moderate sedation and if this is not possible try a blindfold and other non painful distraction. Stocks are not recommended and if the horse must be restrained without sedation a scotch hobble with a quick release knot can be tried along with a blindfold and lots of calm stroking and voice reassurance. Aconite is a homeopathic remedy that can be used if the horse is more afraid than badly injured.

Wood - Wood horse temperaments are generally not overly concerned with the pain from an injury but they will because of their nature often resist treatment aggressively. If you have a stock, put the Wood horse temperament in it for your protection. Use moderate to strong sedation if any painful or prolonged procedure is required. The endorphins released from correct application of a twitch can help mellow out an injured Wood horse and make them less combative. A twitch applied improperly will just bring on or escalate a fight. If possible, do not bandage a lower leg injury in the Wood horse so you do not have to face multiple fights to get it changed.

Taking an extra minute to consider the horse temperament you are dealing with and you can make the treatment of injuries safer for the horse and handler.

Author Resource: Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horsekeeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit and her blog.

Feline Obesity - Feeding Fat Cats

Friday, April 8, 2011

Garfield is the icon of the all-American fat cat. But feline obesity is no laughing matter. It is a serious health concern that all owners should be aware of. Obesity is the No. 1 feline health problem in most countries in which cats are house pets. Some owners may not realize their cats weigh in as obese, but a few extra pounds can have a large impact on a cat. Three extra pounds on a cat is like 40 extra pounds on an average human.

Livin' Large by Stuart Chalmers
Sometimes Less Is More. If your cat is obese as a result of other health problems, you can establish a plan to shed those unwanted pounds. Overfeeding is a common reason for obesity. Cats tend to be grazers and by tightly controlling the daily feeding to the recommended guidelines on every bag, most problems can be avoided.

Another method to counteract overfeeding is to offer meals periodically throughout the day to your cats.

Cats living in multiple-cat households may be sneaking more than their fair share at meal time. Stores have timing bowls that reveal meal portions at different times of the day, or over a few days for short travel periods. Treats may be a dangerous addition to a cat's diet if you overindulge. Treats add calories that aren't always counted, so they can make a cat fat all by themselves if too much is provide.

Low-calorie treats may be a better option for owners who are training their cats or who can't resist spoiling them. You should eliminate table scraps that can defeat the benefits of the complete and balanced nutrition a formula food offers.

Exercise can burn calories and also has other health benefits. Lighter food and less food are important, but you have to put exercise into the formula. Some cats, including senior cats, may not jump at the chance to increase their heart rate.

House cats can be difficult to exercise and cats have a different mentality than dogs. Cats say, 'You have to give me something really good to get me to play and to come out from lying around'.

Interactive toys, catnip toys and toys with erratic movement may persuade a kitty to abandon its sunny napping spot to burn some calories. Mentally challenging cat toys may keep cats at a healthier weight. Cats love those crinkly toys and laser pointers.

Mix meal time with play time by putting dry kibble into a toy.

Making kibble feeding a game can help lengthen the feeding process, provide a mental challenge and discourage gorging at the bowl.

Leash training can be successful if you start cats off at an early age. Short and frequent walks, 15 to 20 minutes at a time, are best for cats that have less stamina than dogs. By slowly acclimating the pet to the feel of the harness and leash for increasing periods of time, cats can enjoy the same sort of exercise that's common for dog owners to employ.

Indoor cats are more likely to be sedentary, but don't be fooled. Some outdoor cats may not be getting enough exercise. You still have to monitor them because it depends on the cat.

Keep in mind that cats are fickle creatures, so variety is a necessity.

Author Resource: Animal44 is the owner and administrator of a discussion board that spans all aspects of cats. You may repost this article as long as all links and original content are included.

Facts on Leopard Gecko Reproduction

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Leopard gecko reproduction is an important and rewarding part of any leo keepers experience. Not only will you get new leos, you'll also be able to produce more morphs through selective breeding. Learning how to reproduce known morphs can become quite lucrative for any breeder and keeper. So let's learn more about this interesting subject.

Baby Geckos by Ronnie Tucker
Sex Facts
One of the first skills you have to learn is how to determine the sex of your pet. The basic difference between the male and the female is the hemipenal bulge that exists only in males. This can be found on the underside of the animal near the tail just after the vent. You might also notice a 'V' shaped row of pores somewhere near the bulge. These are the male anal pores that should be very noticeable.

When you are new to sexing these animals, you might get confused by some strange but very possible female characteristics. Females also have pores in their hind side but they are not as noticeable as the males. Leos also naturally store fat in their tails. This fat can sometimes cause the tail to bulge up and can be mistaken as a hemipenal bulge in females. Be wary of these situations. If in doubt, try to ask a reliable breeder for confirmation.

Facts on Selective Breeding
The process of selective breeding can be one of the hardest to master. There are sometimes so many traits to keep track of that it ends up being a 'learn as you do' thing. Experience is invaluable but there are some things that you can know outright. One of them is the difference between recessive traits and dominant traits.

Dominant traits are the obvious traits that you can see. When you say that a trait is dominant, it is the trait that will appear should the leo inherit two 'genes' that determine a single trait (for example, should the lizard inherit a dominant trait like orange coloring versus a recessive trait of a different color, the orange will be the one visible even though the lizard has the genes for both traits).

Some common dominant traits would include the orange coloring for tangerines and hypos, the carrot tails, and the giants. Some common recessive traits would include albinism, the patternless morph, and blizzards.

Mating Facts
The mating process in leopard gecko reproduction can be quite violent at times. Males will often become aggressive towards females during the process. This is when you should be most careful. If your female does not accept the male's advances, she will start to fight back and you may end up with a lot of fighting resulting in injuries. If this happens when you attempt to mate your lizards, separate them at least for a few days. Try again once things have cooled down a bit.

Egg Facts
One of the cooler things you can do with leos is to control the sex of the next generation of lizards. You can use differing incubation temperatures to change the sex of the lizards while they are in their eggs. If you keep the temp at 79 to 84 degrees (right about the temp of the cool area of a tank), then you'll get females. If you keep the temp at around 86 to 90 degrees (about the temp of the warm area of the tank), then you'll get males.

Author Resource: Written by Donna Perez
Donna Perez is a lizard enthusiast who has vast experience of raising Leopard Geckos. For more information about Leopard Gecko Reproduction, Visit Leopard Gecko Heaven.

Playing with Your Puppy - A How-to Guide

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

You work hard all day and when you come home, all you want to do is plop down on the couch and turn on mindless television like Jerry Springer. Today's commute was especially grueling because of an accident and you are starving to death because you forgot your lunch and had no cash for Taco Bell. Who do you suppose is home waiting for your return and could not care less how your day went? Your faithful companion, of course. With his little head bobbling around and his paws dancing at your feet you realize the couch and Jerry will have to wait. Something far more important needs your attention right now. But, you don't mind at all because this little guy brings you so much joy that it's not a struggle to play with him. Before you know it, you're smiling and laughing and an hour's gone by. But, is there a right way and a wrong way to frolic and play with your best friend? Is it even necessary?

Playing with the Water by Scott Beckner
It's hard to believe that there are pet owners out there that pay very little attention to their pooch let alone play with them (especially puppies). But, playtime is essential if you own a dog and the more active the dog, the more energy he will have and the more he will need to expel. When dogs don't get enough exercise, they tend to relieve their energy and frustration on other things like chewing up your shoes or electronic devices. Dogs that are not played with regularly can become aggressive and mean or turn inward and become timid and insecure. But with everything else, playtime should have guidelines to follow so that your dog knows the boundaries and limitations while he's having fun.

Have you ever been around someone that was a great deal taller than you and you felt very small and insignificant? Well, that's how your dog feels when he has to crank his head up to see you. The first rule for playtime is that you need to get down to his level on the floor so you are both eye to eye. It's all about having fun so training is strictly forbidden unless he does something that will warrant a correction like biting too hard. Other than that, nothing is really off limits. You know your dog better than anyone else so what have you observed your dog doing when he plays? Does he like to play fetch? How about tug of war? My dog loves to wrestle and tries to grab his favorite toy out of my hand. He also loves to play fetch. In fact, he could play fetch all day if I let him. Some dogs love to run and chase you. It just all depends on him and what you're willing to do to play with.

I have an older dog that loves his nap times. This dog could sleep all day under the covers. He is probably the easiest and low maintenance dog I've ever had. He's really never shown much interest in playing. In fact, we have younger more energetic dogs in the house that love to chase and play fight and he just looks at them as if they were nuts. He doesn't quite get what they're doing and never joins in on the fun. So, one day I was making up my bed with clean sheets and I put my hand under the covers to straighten out the bottom sheet when all of a sudden, he lunged at my covered hand when he saw it move under the covers. So, now I started to exaggerate my movements and I got some little growls out of him and little play bites at my hand. It was so cute that I had to laugh at myself because up until that point, I really didn't think he had any playfulness in him at all and it took something so natural as making a bed for him to show me how he likes to play. Now, making up my bed is a real treat for both of us whereas before, it was such a chore. It just goes to show you that you can teach and old dog new tricks...or rather he can teach you.

Author Resource: Written by Vanessa Lea
Vanessa Lea is an experienced internet marketing professional who takes pride in providing knowledge, research and information to consumers seeking guidance when looking for quality products and services online. Her latest website helps consumers in finding the best barbecue grill for their grilling pleasure. This charcoal barbecue review site provides an overall synopsis of testimonials from REAL customers who purchased barbecue grills online and reviewed their product and experience in order to help other consumers make the best choices for themselves. They say the customer is always right so find out what others are saying before purchasing your next charcoal barbecue.

6 Useful and Interesting Tips About Bearded Dragons

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Most reptiles found throughout the world range from the weird and wonderful to the just down right bizarre, which makes the fascinating creatures to observe, study and yes even keep in your own home! One of the most unusual and unique lizards out there would have to be Australia's famous bearded dragon. Because they are native to this part of the world, they have some very specific requirements to keep and care for them, especially if you don't live in a dry, hot desert. As a result, there are many things you'll need to be aware of and consider if you're thinking of having one as a pet. If not, I'm sure you'll find the following tips to be quite interesting anyway.

Here's Why They're Called "Bearded" Dragons by Scott Kinmartin
So firstly you need to consider the bearded dragon's natural habitat. They live in a variety of places throughout Australia, but most commonly in central dry desert regions, scrubland and even coastal forests. However it's pretty much hot throughout the year (especially in the north) in Oz. Therefore you should replicate these conditions in the enclosure. You'll need to be aware of the humidity as well as this plays a large role in the health and well-being of captive bred beardies.

Also they need plenty of water. Now I know you may be thinking, "A desert reptile, needing water - really?" But the answer is yes, most definitely! A dehydrated bearded dragon can be prone to health problems in the future.

What makes these reptiles so interesting and unique is the variety of behaviors they display. In fact they were named after the 'inflating beard' demonstration they use when threatened or during mating. Some other behaviors include arm waving, head bobbing and tail curbing, many of which are quite entertaining to watch.

You'll also be glad to know that they have an incredibly placid, child-friendly temperament. This means they make the perfect family pet. They're very active at times as well. Combine this with their amusing behaviors and great personality and they can safely keep the kids (and you) entertained for hours.

These lizards have become incredibly popular in the pet trade. Ever since they were first smuggled out of Australia in the 1970's, they have spread throughout the world and been successfully bred, kept and cared for in captivity. This way you can be sure they'll make a great pet as so many others around the globe would agree.

Finally, you should probably know that bearded dragons are available in a diverse range of species, sizes and colors. This variation in color is also known as a morph and range from red to brown to yellows and everything in between. In rare cases you can even find pure white bearded dragons. They can grow to be up to 2 feet in length (depending on the species), so you'll need to make sure you have plenty of space to accommodate this.

There's heaps more to learn about bearded dragons and many other things which make them the most interesting reptiles to keep. So keep researching and I'm sure you'll be ready to keep your own in no time at all.

About the Author: Written by Lauren Powell
If you want to learn more about bearded dragons, try visiting Bearded Dragon Answers, a free resource on how to keep and care for healthy, happy bearded dragons for years to come.

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The History of the Chinchilla

Monday, April 4, 2011

This exotic animal was named after the Chincha people of the Andes region. The Andes Mountains in South America. Chinchilla actually means "little Chincha". Back around the close of the 19th century, the animals were known for their thick and soft fur.

There are two types of chinchillas. The chinchilla brevicaudata, which is also known as the Bolivian, Peruvian and Royal chinchilla, has a short tail. They came from the Andes Mountains in the regions of Chile, Peru and Bolivia. This chinchilla was on the verge of becoming extinct and were known for the exquisite fur. Even with the fur, the population of these animals continued to decrease. The chinchilla lanigera, which is also known as the Chilean, Coastal or Lesser chinchilla, has a long tail.

Now Then, Who's Softer Than Me? by Wes & Eli
This species of chinchilla can be found in Chile. Even though the word "lanigera" means "having a woolen coat", they are covered with hair instead. The hair is soft, sleek and sticks to their skin. There are three types of chinchilla lanigera: The LaPlata are muscular, round and have a short head. The Costina has longer hind legs, slight hump and a pointed nose. The Raton is similar to the LaPlata in they way it's structured. It has a pointed nose and they are of a smaller size.

Burrows or cracks in rocks are where chinchillas reside. They can jump very well and at least up to 5 feet high. When residing in the wild, chinchillas consume fruits, seeds, plants and small insects. As far as breeding is concerned, that can take place at any time of the year. When the female chinchillas do procreate, their average length of pregnancy is 111 days. For a chinchilla, that's a long period of time compared to other animals in that group. Because their pregnancies are so long, their offspring are born with their eyes open and their body full of fur. At the time of delivery, their litter is usually one or two, with the two more times than not are twins.

The first try of breeding started in 1895. In that same year, the first animal was born and each year two litters were born. In the summer of 1896, an unknown disease halted the breeding process. By then, there were 13 animals and all of them succumbed within two months time. Around 1918, there was a resurgence of chinchillas. A man from California was interested in trapping chinchillas so he could raise them as pets.

At first, the Chilean government refused, but as the man kept asking, the government relented. During three year period, only eleven chinchillas were captured. They were brought back and bred in the United States. This process started the first chinchilla farm. This also started the process of the domestic chinchilla.

The interest in chinchilla fur started in the 16th century as international trade. Chinchilla fur is prevalent because it has a soft texture. Because of even color across the board, people like to use it for lining large pieces of clothing or small pieces of clothing.

The fur can also be used to create an entire large piece of clothing. So many chinchillas must be destroyed in order to make a coat because their skin is so small. Because of this, one of the species became non-existent and supply for the other became scarce. People still hunt and kill domestic chinchillas to create clothing, but wild chinchillas are no longer targeted for hunting.

Author Resource: Written by David Peterson
For more information on Chinchilla's, visit Jinga's Pet Article World

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Breakthrough Treatments for Arthritis in Cats

Sunday, April 3, 2011

What I love about living in today's world is that there are so many advancements going on. If you have ever had a cat that was diagnosed with arthritis or you think your cat is displaying signs of arthritis, then the good news is that you have a greater variety of options when it comes to treatment for arthritis in cats. It seems that modern medicine has found that it can work in harmony and with success when it comes to combining with the natural remedies and more traditional medicines. There have been some major breakthroughs when it comes to treatment for arthritis in cats.

Xray of Cat Showing Arthritis in Hip by James Quinn
For many years now, NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) have been used to curb the inflammation and pain that arthritis brings. It has had limited success due to the harsh side effects that it causes, especially to cats. However, many veterinarians believe that they can effectively combine the traditional NSAIDS with more herbal or natural remedies to combine and be an effective defense against the onset of feline arthritis. The NSAIDS would be used in far lesser quantities and therefore tolerance should be more acceptable.

The combination of the NSAIDS would be with a group of known safe natural drugs that have been called DMOAAs (Disease Modifying Osteoarthritic Agents). There have already been studies that suggest that these drugs have been successful in the treatment and can be a good preventative measure in the onset of arthritis. The most encouraging aspect of these tests is that they have not shown to have incurred any side effects and indeed will require the animal take a lower dosage of the NSAIDS. It is believed that they are just as successful as the use of NSAIDS on their own.

This is great news for the felines of the world. With a delicate metabolism and a propensity to be sensitive to medication, any drug that delivers zero side effects would be most welcomed. These drugs have also been found to aid in other ailments such as itchy flaky skin (pruritis) and also have some anti-cancer effects as well as being able to prevent an Alzheimer-like condition.

In addition to those breakthroughs, the DMOAAs have proven to be a very effective treatment for arthritis in cats. They can remove free radicals, which are responsible for joint damage, as well as rebuild cartilage and halt the breakdown of the surface of the joint. Clearly, this is a very exciting time in medicine and when it comes to finding a successful and effective treatment for arthritis in cats, then the combination of traditional and modern medicine is a welcomed partnership for many.

Obviously, preventative measures to ensure that your cat gets the best chance at health and life without the risk of arthritis is of optimum importance. While you cannot prevent many types of arthritis, you can certainly treat your cat before the symptoms show. This would therefore enable your pet to live comfortably for as long as possible without the prospect of pain and until there is the next medical breakthrough.

Author Resource: Written by Kate Rieger
Work to help your cat's weight down and play games with your cat to keep him moving. Exercise keeps his joints lubricated. Finally, consider this natural option as a cat arthritis treatment . Find out how to qualify for product when you visit

Article From Pet Article World

Hazards of Cockatoo Dander

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Cockatoo dander is produced continuously and is a normal and healthy part of its growth and development. Dander, or flakes of dead skin, falls off as new skin grows in to replace the old. This process allows newer, more resilient skin to take the place of older skin that is less likely to be able to protect the bird from germs and the onset of disease.

In the wild, dander goes airborne into the air and dissipates, or the bird flies miles away. In captivity neither of these things can happen.

Being in This Cage Really Gets My Dander Up ... Literally by JustUptown
Because they are in an enclosed area -your home- dander has no place to go, and the bird cannot move away from it. So unless you actively remove dander from the air, the bird and its humans are forced to breathe air with high concentrations of dander.

For the bird, this is detrimental. Their air passages are so small that it doesn't take much to clog them. Once clogged, they often become ill with disease and infections that are hard to cure. With people, there is generally an increased sensitivity which often produces symptoms such as sneezing, coughing, or congestion.

And for people who already have respiratory issues such as allergies and asthma, the protein in the dander can trigger flare ups that make it all but impossible to keep the bird.

In addition to dander, Cockatoos, who are powder down birds, also produce a white powder to help keep their wings soft. This powder from their feathers is easily sent into the air with movements from the bird and the people who love and care for them.

And this powder and the dander are in addition to all the normal pollutants generally found in a home-dust, dust mites, dander from other pets, mold and mildew spores, as well as seasonal pollutants such as pollen.

Giving your bird clean air has to be a top priority if any of its other care is to matter. And the only way to insure that these particulates do not ruin your health or your bird's is to continuously removing the particles with HEPA filtration.

High efficiency particle arresting (shortened to HEPA) by definition removes particulates as small as.3 microns which is exactly the type of filter that is needed to remove bird-related and household pollutants.

And to be designated as such it has to have demonstrated that it can remove 99,997 out of 10,000 airborne particulates that are.3 microns or greater, with a micron being defined as one millionth of a meter.

Going on the offensive by constantly filtering the air will significantly lower the dander and dust in your air.

Author Resource: Written by Debbie Davis
You can significantly reduce Cockatoo dust and dander with the Bird Dust Air Purifier at

Article From Pet Article World

Setting Up Your Cichlid Fish Tank

Friday, April 1, 2011

Cichlids are known to bring color to a room by its mere appearance. Its behavior also paves way for a very entertaining spectacle. These two reasons are just some of the reasons why more and more people have started to collect and breed cichlids. If you are a first-timer at this, you have to understand some basic cichlid necessities, such as the cichlid aquarium setup.

Flowerhorn Cichlid by Prakash Chakraborty
As we all know, the cichlids in an aquarium need several things in order to enjoy its habitat. Making all of these possible would entail basic knowledge and understanding on your part. In turn, it would lead to an immeasurable degree of health and wellness for your cichlid. Here are some things to consider while you are setting up the new home of your cichlids:

In choosing a tank, you should be very meticulous. This means that you should select a good brand. Aside from this, the dimensions of the tank should also be wide enough for your cichlids to swim around in. Ideally, the tank should have a large volume. Meanwhile, a large surface area for the tank is also required to make your fishes comfortable and healthy.

What sort of decorations to include. It is common knowledge that cichlids or any fish, for that matter, need to live in an aquarium that is similar to its original habitat. This emphasizes the importance of putting plants, gravel and other decors inside the aquarium. Cichlids would also appreciate this because it would give them more ways to divide the aquarium in different territories.

Get your hands on a good filter. Filters are important in an aquarium setup because these materials keep the aquarium safe from pollutants. If you want your cichlids to be healthy, you should prioritize sanitation for their habitat. The best way to do that is through the use of a reliable filter.

Set the water temperature at a desirable level for cichlids. This is essential because keeping cichlids mean that they should receive ample heat. Get equipment that can enable you to heat at least a watt of heating per one liter of water. Once this is secured, you can already be able to respond well to the needs of your cichlid in terms of its habitat.

Cichlids are truly beautiful types of fishes. Do not waste their worth by not taking care of them. The least you can do is to feed them well and to put up an ideal aquarium setup for them.

Author Resource: Larry Pearson is an expert author and cichlid fish enthusiast and has been keeping pet fishes for over 20 years. To learn more about cichlid aquarium setup and how to keep healthy and beautiful cichlids go to and sign up for his FREE Email Mini-Course.

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Neon Tetras in Your Tropical Fish Aquarium

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Neon Tetra fish are small freshwater fishes and very popular with tropical aquarium enthusiasts because of their bright colors and ease of care.

Probably the most popular tropical aquarium Tetra is the Neon Tetra. Originally from freshwater streams in Brazil, Columbia and Peru, it's a peaceful, community fish and quite suitable for the beginner aquarist.

Black Neon Tetra and Cardinal Tetra by fro_Ost
The Neon Tetra is a schooling fish and, as such, should always be kept with a community of 10 or so - they get lonely and sicken if alone. They prefer a somewhat dim environment, so a few floating plants to filter the light is recommended as well as a dark substrate flooring. In addition, place plenty of plants on the bottom of the tank for hiding spots- but leave enough room for some "open" swimming. Be aware that during the night, - when your Neon Tetra is hiding and resting - it will "turn off" its bright sparkling colors and it will look dull or dim. Light will gradually bring back their bright coloration.

The water temperature for Neon Tetras should be kept between 72F-78F degrees. Neon Tetras, in the wild are omnivores and eat a variety of foods including crustaceans, worms and small insects. They do love to eat, though, so be careful of over-feeding. Use a high quality flake food, with occasional supplements of daphnia, or brine shrimp for variety and they will do quite well. The pH balance of your tank should be from 5.5-7.5, which should be easy to maintain with such a nice span! Because their natural habitat has lots of rainfall, it is recommended that you replace your tank water frequently.

Neon Tetras, due to the wide range of waters in which they have been bred (whether in captivity or the wild), should be carefully acclimated into your tank to allow them plenty of time to adapt to their new home.

Neon Tetras are susceptible to - well - Neon Tetra disease. The official name is Pleistophora, which is the name of the sporozoan which causes the disease. There is no cure for the disease and the best way to avoid it is to prevent it from entering your tank in the first place. New fish should always be quarantined in a separate tank for a few days before being released into the main tank. The first sign of the disease are usually restlessness and a dull coloration. This is followed by cysts, which make the fishes body look lumpy. The Tetra will have trouble swimming and near the end the spine will become curved. By quarantining new fish you can help prevent the spread of this disease. Neon Tetra can also get Pleistophora from eating the bodies of dead fish - so be sure to remove any sick or dead fish as soon as possible.

Author Resource: Written by Anthony Higgins
Neon Tetras, with their bright colors, easy disposition and general good health are the perfect fish for the beginner in tropical freshwater aquariums. If you want to learn more visit Doctor Do for lots a tropical freshwater fish resources, including a great guide to get you up and running with your new hobby.

Help! My Dog Has Heartburn!

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Yes, it's true! Dogs can get heartburn just like humans can, but the condition isn't nearly as frequent with our canine friends. Unfortunately, when they do suffer from a bout, they can't tell you what's wrong, and they can't just pop an antacid to take care of the problem. As your pet's owner and companion, you need to know what the signs of heartburn in dogs are as well as what you should do about it. Not all human treatments are effective on dogs, and some can even cause the problem to worsen, so you need to learn how to get rid of heartburn in dogs the right way.

Oh, Excuse Me, Dinner was a Tad Spicy by Gregory Wake
Some of the same things can cause heartburn in dogs as they do in humans. If your dog is experiencing stress, has developed food allergies, or isn't eating a balanced diet, the result can be heartburn. The condition can manifest itself in canines as vomiting or lack of appetite which will give you a clue about what's going on. Naturally, you want to do everything you can to alleviate these problems which should help your pooch feel better. Taking your pet to the vet is also a good idea, because the vet can check to make sure that something else isn't causing the symptoms.

Your vet will also be able to tell you if it will be all right to give your dog over-the-counter heartburn remedies and can tell you how much you will need to administer. For example, Reglan can be used to help empty your pet's stomach instead of allowing food to remain in the stomach where it can cause indigestion. Other common antacids that are safe for dogs under a vet's supervision include Zantac and Pepcid AC.

If you'd prefer to take a more natural approach to managing your doggie's heartburn, you might try soothing his throat using either slippery elm bark or marshmallow herbs. You can also make changes to his diet in case what he's eating or not eating is the cause of the problems. Although commercial dog foods are the answer to feeding many dogs, one who suffers from heartburn may benefit from a diet of home-cooked food or raw food that emulates the type of food he would eat in the wilds. You will eventually learn how to get rid of heartburn in your dog by trying different types of meals. As a rule, as your pet ages, the incidence of heartburn should decrease, because older dogs no longer produce a lot of stomach acid.

Author Resource: Written by Kristie Brown
Want more information on how to stop heartburn? Get more information, tips and resources here: How to get rid of heartburn fast.

Essential Dwarf Hamster Keeping Tips

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Although they may be smaller to the cousin species, Syrian Hamsters, the dwarf hamster requires the same amount of care. There are several different species of dwarf hamster and they all can make wonderful pets.

Hamster's First Birthday by Dan Derrett
Dwarf hamsters can often be more delicate, skittish, and faster to make an escape. Their small size allows them to fit into small cracks and spaces so they need a secure enclosure. Hamsters make their homes in tunnels that they dig themselves in the sand and dirt of their native homelands. Even though hamsters hoard food in their nests instead of leaving in a bowl, they'll still require a constant supply of new food and fresh water daily. But, because of their small size, the hamster habitats might be too large for them to be able to climb and maneuver in properly.

Luckily, they now make tubular habitats that are built smaller and specifically for mice. Dwarf hamsters do better in these types of enclosures. They will also do well in a 10-20 gallon tank or a wire cage. Hamsters are naturally active creatures. So a wheel that can be placed inside the cage and can be used to run on is extremely important. Some research has indicated that hamsters can run up to five miles on their wheel. There are smaller wheels specifically made for dwarf hamsters.

A substrate on the bottom of your dwarf hamster's cage will satisfy their natural burrowing instincts. Owners need to use a dust free and absorbent material like wood shavings but not cedar or pine based products due to the repertory problems these materials can cause. The substrate in the hamster's cage should be completely emptied out and replaced every week. Hamsters like to make nests out of the substrates in their cages. Owners can also offer their hamsters a number of other nesting materials like paper towels, cotton, shredded paper, or tissues. Their next will often be constructed in small places, kind of like a nesting box. Because they are naturally shy animals, they like the privacy that these boxes offer.

Because of their high metabolism, dwarf hamsters eat as much as the larger Syrian hamster. They eat different types of pellets, seeds, dried fruits and vegetables. Although hamsters tend to hoard their food in their nests rather then leaving it in their bowls, they still need to be offered a constant supply of fresh foods and a fresh water supply. Another important aspect that owners need to be concerned about is ensuring that their hamsters receive chewing toys. Dwarf hamsters have a high metabolism making them each as much as the larger Syrian hamster. Without soft wooden toys to keep them busy they are liable to chew on plastic accessories which could injure them if chewed to become rough and broken.

In addition to replacing the substrate of the hamster's cage on a weekly basis, the cage and all of its accessories need to be washed weekly. Owners can use a light solution of soap and water and make sure to rinse everything thoroughly. The cage should also be completely dry before new substrate is added to the cage. Never use harsh chemicals because this can irritate hamsters. Although they require a moderate amount of care, the joy of owning a dwarf hamster far out weigh the amount of effort that needs to be put into the care of these amazing creatures.

Author Resource: Mary Wilbur is a Dwarf Hamster expert. For more great information on Dwarf Hamster Pet for Kids, visit

Article From Pet Article World

Nano Reef Aquarium

Monday, March 28, 2011

There is a new growing popularity in the reef keeping hobby called Nano Reefs. As the name implies, a nano reef is a reef aquarium on a small scale; 2.5 to 29 gallons. The price of a nano reef is also on a small scale, from the tank itself, the lighting, and it takes less live rock and corals to make a very dramatic reef display.

It was often thought that the bigger the aquarium the easier it would be to keep the water parameters stable. You could not keep corals alive without a massive trickle filter, large efficient protein skimmer, and powerful metal halide lighting lights. The bigger the aquarium the more gadgets you could add to make the water quality pristine, from ozone generators, redox meters, ph controllers, and calcium reactors. You had to be a marine biologist and a chemist to maintain a coral reef aquarium. The nano reef aquarium would seem to go against all these principles. Can we really keep corals alive in a 10 gallon aquarium with no sump filter or a protein skimmer?

A Young Nano Reef Aquarium by Guilherme Morais
What has been learned through the years more than anything is, most of the biological filtration occurs in the live rock and live sand. Lighting has also played a role in enabling the reef aquarium to become smaller with the advent of power compact fluorescent and the smaller HQI metal halide lamps. Having invertebrates that sift through and clean the live sand and live rocks adds to the ecological balance of the tank. Most of the trace elements are replaced through strict regiments of 5% weekly water changes. There is yet to be a salt water mix that has adequate calcium and strontium levels for good coral growth and these elements should be maintained separately.

The best products to maintain calcium, strontium and other trace elements are made from aragonite, such as AragaMilk from CaribSea. So what is aragonite? Aragonite is fossilized coralline algae that has extracted minerals from the ocean to grow. Grinding aragonite into a fine powder and adding water creates a milky substance that precipitates quickly adding these minerals to the water naturally. Add a few drops to top off water to maintain calcium levels at 450 ppm. You will be amazed at the growth rate of SPS corals. Yes I did say SPS corals that can be easily maintained in a nano reef aquarium.

Fish For The Nano Reef Aquarium
Fish are a great addition to a nano reef, but you must take extra care of you nano. You will have to be sure to keep up with your water changes, because a small body of water can collect nitrates quickly. The following fish are nano reef safe: anthius, true and false percula, banggai cardinals, pajama cardinals, royal grammas, fire fish, clown gobies, pseudochromis, basslets, and most damsels. While you are not limited to just those fish, these are hardy and good for beginners. Keep the number small from 1 to 5 fish depending on the nano aquarium size.

Cleanup Crews For The Nano
A good cleanup crew will keep your nano reef running smooth, and free from algae, detritus, and other unwanted wastes. Commonly kept cleanup crew critters are red leg hermits, red tip hermits, sand sifter starfish, sand sifter gobies, turbo snails, and astrea snails.

Corals For the Nano Reef
There are may corals that are compatible with the nano tank. Soft corals would include zooanthids, zenias, star polops, and mushroom anemonies. Lps corals would include Fox Coral and Blastomusa. SPS corals do well with metal halide lighting. Acroporas and montiporas are the easiest to grow in a 24-29 gallon nano aquarium. SPS coral frags are the way to go in a nano reef. They are much cheaper and easier to ship. The benefits of buying corals online is the greater variety that cannot be found at your local pet store. Buying several items from the same seller can reduce shipping costs. Simply use some Marineland's Hold Fast, which is a two part epoxy similar to plumbers epoxy, to glue the coral frag to a live rock. Be sure to give them plenty of space for growth.

Author Resource: Written by RC Moore
Content writer for
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Treating Symptoms of Hookworms in Dogs

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Hookworms are very common in dogs, most especially in puppies. Most of the time, puppies catch the disease more readily than full-grown dogs. Hookworms are tiny internal parasites that can infect a dog or puppy, and are sometimes fatal, most notably in puppies.

While the instance of hookworm is uncommon in older dogs, they may still be infected, but if they are, the infection is usually minor and recovery from the infection is fast. Dogs should always be protected from these parasites since they can cause such major damage.

Hookworm Attached to Intestinal Mucosa by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
How a dog may contract hookworms:
Commonly, a dog picks up hookworms from infested soil. A dog may eat something off of the soil, and at the same time take in the eggs of the hookworms. Dogs can also be infected by roundworms, whipworms, or tapeworms in much the same way. Some of the larvae are able to burrow through muscle and membrane to the trachea, where they are coughed up and swallowed, ending up in the intestines. Other times, ingested eggs travel straight through to the intestines where they mature into adults and attach themselves to the intestinal walls. They feed on the blood of the dog and will make more eggs that are either expelled in waste by the dog, or they will go back into the bloodstream to continue the cycle.

What symptoms to look for with hookworms:
A dog's owner needs to look the dog over well for any signs of hookworm infestation. Some of the symptoms are anemia, weight loss, appearing weak or frail, and vomiting or diarrhea. A dog's gums may appear pale, and dark, tarry stools may be seen. You may also notice worm like parasites or eggs in the stool of the dog. The worst thing about hookworms is that the outward symptoms often occur only after complete infestation, when the larvae have matured into adults and have begun feeding on the dog's blood. This is especially bad for pregnant females, as the larvae may lie dormant in the dog, then get passed to the puppies before birth, or while they are nursing. Although hookworm disease is seldom fatal for the adult, it is often deadly in puppies, as their fragile immune system and small supply of blood makes them more susceptible to the dangers of the infestation.

Treatment of hookworms:
By inspecting the feces of your dog, a veterinarian can make an absolute diagnosis of hookworms. De-wormer medication is typically given to the animal to kill off the worms and help the dog evacuate them. The medicine is either a pill or liquid, and you should pay attention to the dosing recommendations of the medicine. Giving too little of the medication may not kill the worms, while giving your dog too much may actually poison him, leading to death.

Dogs typically get infested by hookworms a number of times during their lifespan. If your dog travels with you and is exposed to varied environments, he is more likely to contract the disease. It is advised to check your pet's feces periodically for signs of parasite infection, including hookworms.

Author Resource: Written by Rebecca Julia Ann
Rebecca J. Ann has a great passion for dogs. She loves dogs as much as she loves her family. Knowing that heartworm disease is one of the top 10 dog killers, she has built a site about Heartgard for Dogs, where you can find out how to prevent your dog from the deadly disease, heartworm disease. You can also read her article: Iverhart as good as Heartgard, which will help you choose the right preventative treatment for your dog.

Lighting, Heating and UVB for Chameleons

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Chameleons, being reptiles, have a different attitude towards night and day, thus they are more sensitive to changing temperatures and lighting ad compared to humans and other warm-blooded animals. They are also more inclined to be active at night, and start their day once dusk takes place. However, when they are taken as pets, their lifestyle changes, and this becomes hard for them to adjust with. Hence, by the use of proper lighting and heating in their cages, chameleons will still be able to enjoy living with their owners as they think they are still living in their natural habitat.

Chameleon in Her Comfy Abode by jasmo
So, if you are going to install lighting and heating equipment inside your chameleon cage, it's best to follow these tips below:

1. Consider the proper placing of the light bulbs. Some owners just place the light bulbs anywhere they want to, or at any place at which the cage space can accommodate. Some owners on the other hand place lights in order to see clearly which directions their pet goes while inside the enclosure. However, lighting for chameleons serves a different purpose. When placed at the wrong positions, chameleons might get blinded by the light because the rays are just too much. Hence, when placing bulbs, particularly fluorescent ones, make sure that they allow only enough rays to get through the bottom of the cage; it is also recommended that they are placed just above the plants, so that there's still enough shade left for the chameleon to go to.

2. Use UVB bulbs at the lower parts of the cage. UVA and UVB bulbs have shorter wavelengths, and they become more useful during the darkness. Chameleons rely on UVB when hunting for food at night, however, since they are already in captivity, the ultraviolet rays serve to support the maintenance of their natural habitat, otherwise they will get homesick and depressed.

3. Offer sufficient heat inside the cage. Aside from light, chameleons also need humidity, and this can be generated not only by sufficient supply of water and mist, but also of heat. Thus, it is recommended to place a heater inside the cage to promote sufficient warmth for the chameleon to enjoy. This also encourages the development of better humidity, which is a crucial part of a chameleon's natural habitat.

4. Gauge the temperatures regularly. Things sometimes become too hot or too cold for a chameleon, thus you have to keep track of the changing temperatures inside the cage. If you don't know at which settings to adjust the heaters and misters, then you might as well make good use of a thermometer and hygrometer to measure the right amounts of heat and humidity in the enclosure. This way you will be able to set the surrounding tools properly and accordingly, thus keeping your chameleon happy.

Chameleons easily change their moods depending on their surrounding temperatures, thus it is important to keep their habitat cool and humid. Using the right tools will promote a more natural habitat, which chameleons love all throughout.

Author Resource: Written by Chris Smith
As a herp keeper, I have done tons of research on Chameleon Supplies to help keep your chameleons happy.

The Most Common Hedgehog Diseases

Friday, March 25, 2011

While hedgehogs are usually hardy little individuals, it may be inevitable that your hedgehog will become ill during the course of its life. Hygiene and a clean environment will go a long way to keeping your hedgehog healthy as will keeping its cage in a draft free part of the house. You should always keep hedgehogs within a temperature range of 70-85 degrees Fahrenheit.

3-week-old Hedgehog by scpetrel
Respiratory Disease: Symptoms of respiratory disease include wheezing, coughing, difficulty breathing, nasal discharge, lack of appetite and sudden death. Respiratory diseases in hedgehogs are usually caused by bacterial infections. Internal parasite infestations can also lead to respiratory disease, as can an inappropriate diet or dirty cage. Respiratory disease can start off mild but can quickly turn into pneumonia so you should never ignore any symptoms of respiratory disease. If your hedgehog exhibits any of described symptoms you should take it to the vet immediately.

Gastrointestinal Disease: Hedgehogs are susceptible to a wide range of gastrointestinal diseases, the most common being intestinal blockage. Symptoms of gastrointestinal obstruction are vomiting, severe lethargy and sudden loss of appetite. If left untreated coma and death ensue. Hedgehogs can develop intestinal obstructions and blockages by ingesting carpet fibers or swallowing foreign objects so always make sure you supervise your pet when it is out of its cage.

Urogenital Disease: While urogenital diseases are not very common in hedgehogs, they can develop bladder infections and bladder stones. Symptoms of bladder infections include difficulty in urinating and urine discoloration. This condition is very painful and could potentially be fatal so if you observe these symptoms in your pet you shouldn't delay in taking it to the vet. Hedgehogs can also develop liver and kidney damage or failure and signs of these diseases include vomiting, decreased appetite, excessive or decreased urine production, rapid loss of weight and anemia. Only a qualified vet can diagnose kidney and liver disease through a series of tests.

Cancer: Approximately 90% of captive owned African Pygmy hedgehogs develop cancer as they age. Why this is so is as yet unknown but treatments do exist depending on whether the cancer has spread to several organs or not. Surgery is an option in some cases as well as chemotherapy.

Hedgehogs, like other small mammals, are prone to many serious illnesses and diseases, and you shouldn't attempt owning one unless you have access to a vet who is qualified for treating these animals. As hedgehogs have only recently become popular as pets, qualified vets are hard to find. If you can't provide the needed veterinary care for your pet, please don't get one.

Author Resource: Written by Des Finney
Des likes to write on an assortment of topics and has been doing so for a number of years. His latest site provides folks with information on computer remote control software.

The Most Common Pet Infections and Pet Medications

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Our pets are our best friends. We love them and their company and they have an unconditional love for us. And when one of them gets sick, it can be just as tough as having to care for a sick child. It's also just as stressful. Infections are the most common health issue in dogs and cats, as well as many other animals you may have as a pet. There are a few common ones that you should look out for and basic medications you should get to treat them.

Kitten with an Eye Infection by bejealousofme (rather ironic)
The first common problem is an ear infection. If your pet's ear seems to have a discharge, any swelling, or if it seems painful to your pet when touched, it could mean there's a serious problem. Most infections are due to a build up of wax, but can also be an allergic reaction. The infection can be bacterial, as well as caused by yeast or ear mites. Each of these problems would be treated with antibiotics, anti-fungal pet medication, or anti-parasitic meds like Mita-Clear respectively.

Another problem you may see are eye infections. The most common and easy to spot symptom is excess discharge. All pets have a discharge build up, just like human do. But if it seems to be a different color, mucus-like and more excessive than usual, it should be checked out. Overly watery eyes is another thing to look out for. Antibiotics will have to be prescribed such as terramycin, but an eye wash for pets will help ease their discomfort in the meantime while the infection clears up.

Urinary tract infections are common in cats but also can occur in female dogs. The infection affects them much the same as it would in a human. Your cat or dog may whine while tring to go to the bathroom, usually letting you know they are feeling discomfort. If there seems to be redness around the bladder area, a stronger urine smell than you are used to and they are drinking far more water than usual, it's pretty apparent a UTI is the problem. This can be treated with antibiotics as well as a change in dietary habits. They can also be given over the counter pet medication to ease the pain in the meantime like Cranberry Relief.

Lastly, upper respiratory infections are as common in cats and dogs as humans. They too can experience symptoms of sneezing, runny noses, and even a cough. It's most likely spread from animal to animal, especially in shelters, so it's not uncommon to adopt a pet and come home only to find they have a respiratory infection. Never leave a respiratory infection untreated as it may lead to further complications like pneumonia.

Author Resource: Written by Mark Etinger
Nate's Pharmacy is a Brooklyn pharmacy specializing in compounding medicines and other health products. For pharmacy services and information on pet medications, visit

Article From Pet Article World

Pet Bird Care - 5 Ways to Help Your Pet Bird Live Longer

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

How long your bird lives is directly related to the care that you give it. And since there are never any guarantees in life, the following five suggestions can greatly increase their life span as well as quality of life.

Whatcha Doin'? by Tim Zim
Seek Regular Professional Care
Instinct causes birds to hide their symptoms of illness. This is because in the wild any sign of weakness is an open invitation for the strong to attack. That is why having an avian veterinarian is a must. Taking your bird for regularly check ups can prevent small problems from become large ones. And having a vet as an immediate resource to contact about any changes in your pet's normal behavior can help you identify and successfully treat an illness, which ultimately can save your bird's life.

Provide a Properly Sized Cage
The space that you carve out for your bird to live will have a huge impact on every other aspect of its life. Providing a cage that is large enough for your bird to fully extend its wings without damage is a must. The bigger the cage the happier your pet will be. The ideal cage should also have several levels so that it can fly up or down to perches placed at different levels.

The cage should be placed away from drafts and at least one corner should be placed against a wall to give a sense of security. Avoid placing the cage in areas that get direct sunlight, as this can make it too hot. The cage should be cleaned completely at least once a month. Dried feces and dropping should be cleared daily to avoid having these airborne particles spread disease and infection.

The best material for cages is stainless steel. Initially it is more expensive, but this type of cage can last for the lifetime of your bird. It also eliminates the risk of harmful paints and metals that can prove fatal to your bird.

Meet Their Social Needs
Like people, different kinds of birds have different personalities. And the need for human interaction varies greatly depending on the type of bird you have. Be sure to research their requirements thoroughly before you adopt. Generally one bird will need more attention from its owner than a pair will. Knowing how much interaction is needed and making sure your bird gets the proper attention can greatly reduce health problems.

Failing to meet the social needs can lead to harmful behaviors such as feather plucking, and aggression. This type of stress often manifests itself as a decline in physical health. Providing food and water is surely important, but this piece of care is too.

Feed a Proper Diet
This varies greatly from one species to the next. The best way to decide what your bird needs is to check with your vet. Making sure the food you give is fresh, and is removed from the cage before spoilage can occur should be a routine procedure. Providing fresh water throughout the day will prevent your feathered friend from ingesting water that is contaminated.

Continuously Filter the Air
If your bird is breathing contaminated air it can severely impact their health. The bacteria and viruses that cause disease and infection often travel from one host to the next by attaching to airborne particulates. This is often the start of a downhill slide in their health.

Using a high-efficiency particle arresting (or HEPA) air purifier to keep the air fresh and clean is one of the best ways to help your bird live a long and happy life.

I Love Outside Time by Liz West
Author Resource: Written by Debbie Davis
Providing fresh clean air can greatly increase your bird's life span. See the air purifier that can do it now at

Article From Pet Article World

The Norweigan Forest Cat is a Beast

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Norwegian Forest cat is quite a beastly feline, in appearance, and occasionally demeanor. They are known for being gentle with humans, and reasonably patient with children. However, just like the pit bull (sorry to mention dogs) can be a deadly creature, so too can the Forest Cat. Not necessarily to humans, but to small rodent-like creatures that roam the land around your home. The forest cat is a hardy animal, and if given the opportunity to venture outside, it will not hesitate to do some mousing, or potentially some squirreling.

Wonder if I'll Get a Cat Fish? by Thomas Mues
A "Wegie" as some like to refer to their forest cats, knows it is big. Animals, like humans, size up competition. This cat's size advantage tends to get it into a bit of trouble when it goes outside. A squirrel is not a weak, docile creature. When cornered and attacked, they will fight back with their pointy, acorn gnawing teeth, and your forest cat could get some pretty nasty bites. Squirrels really aren't concerned with how clean their teeth are, bacteria abounds in their little gray mouths. So if your forest cat is banishing squirrels from the land, be sure to check their chest and forearms for little bites and scratches.

In addition to getting into tussles with rodents, forest cats are more likely to face-off with a dog than other cats, because of their size. A smaller cat may run when a medium sized dog attempts an attack, but a forest cat will often hold its ground and attempt to scare off the dog or fight. And some of these medium sized dogs are stronger than a forest cat, and will cause serious injuries. The majority of the time the cat escapes, because it is faster and more agile than the dog, but it will still likely get some wounds. The forest cat loves to climb trees too, they are natural hunters, and will climb trees to chase and stalk prey or just to get a good look at their kitty kingdom. Even though your cat looks like the most regal and graceful creature on the planet, it is still capable of falling out of a tree. Yes, that pretty, full tailed, wonder cat can still fall, haha.

This cat is going to want to put its thick water proof coat, and big fur covered paws to use in the elements, there is no doubt about it. It will want to get out and roam, and roam often, it's the nature of the mythical feline. If you have an extremely high fenced in yard, or a high walled yard, you can let them out and enjoy the fresh air and bounce around. You could also take this breed for a walk in the woods if you think you can make your cat feel inferior to you, but it's a bit difficult. Worth a try though. Often times you can make a homemade cat walking leash out of some very thick fishing line. The strength and malleability of the string will allow the cat to have a blast in the woods. But, don't let the cat go up a tree to high, because you don't want to have any unfortunate accidents. You can also get a cat play enclosure for outside, but these mortal pens or not really designed for a Norwegian Forest cat.

Author Resource: Written by Scott R. Jones
Make sure your cat has insurance that can take care of it in the event of any accident. Visit this cat health insurance site to read about the most reputable cat insurance available.

The Antediluvian Andalusian - An Ancient and Aspiring Horse

Monday, March 21, 2011

The Andalusian horse is one of the oldest pure horse breeds in the world. It has been highly regarded since the Middle Ages and reigned for several centuries as the embodiment of perfection, but Spanish horses have always been esteemed for their quality and appearance since Roman times.

Andalusian Workout by David De Biasí
The Andalusian has officially been known as the Purebred Spanish Horse, and has been represented by Iberian Saddle Horse, Iberian War Horse, Jennet, Ginete, Lusitano, Alter Real, Carthusian, Spanish Horse, Portuguese, Peninsular, Castilian, Extremeno, Villanos, Zapata, and Zamaranos. It is also known as the Lusitano Horse, which is the modern breed of Andalusian in Portugal. And since black is a rare color in the Andalusian breed, there is also a black Spanish Andalusian or Pura Raza Espanola (PRE) horse of Spain.

The Andalusian Horse originated in the province of Andalusia on the Iberian Peninsula, in Spain, where 2500 year old cave paintings portray the breed. Its ancestors are the Iberian horses of Spain and Portugal, which in turn were influenced by Celtic, Carthaginian, Germanic, and Roman horses; and the Barb horse which was brought to Spain by the invading Moors in the Seventh Century. These oriental horses were crossed with quality native Spanish stock, and the result was the Andalusian.

The Andalusian has been a major part of the development of many other horse breeds, including being the foundation breed for the Lipizzaner horses used in Vienna's Spanish Riding School in the 1500's. The breed has also been part of the development of the Irish Connemara, most German warmblood breeds, the Cleveland Bay of England, and the Peruvian Paso of the new world. The Azteca is an Andalusian/Quarter Horse cross while the Iberian Warmblood is an Andalusian/Thoroughbred cross. The Spanish Norman is an Andalusian/Percheron cross and the Hispano Arab is an Andalusian/Arab cross.

The Andalusian is mentioned in various historical texts dating as far back as Homer's Iliad, written in 1100 BC. Xenophon, a Greek cavalry officer who lived in or near 450 BC, also praised the "gifted Iberian horses" for their role in the Spartan's defeat of Athens. In the Second Punic War (218-201 BC), the Romans were defeated by the Iberian cavalry, and more than 1,200 years later William the Conqueror rode an Iberian horse into the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The Spanish explorer, Hernando Cortes, brought Andalusians to America for his conquests.

As the middle ages progressed, heavier breeds of horses that were capable of carrying fully armored knights began to gain favor over the Adalusian as war mounts. When firearms were invented, a more agile horse became desirable, and the Andalusion was again back in favor. This new type of warfare ushered in a new era for the breed, when it became known as the "royal horse of Europe." During this period, Andalusian horses were present at nearly every European court as the favored mount for the nobles and played an integral role in the new riding academies that were forming throughout Europe, where the art of dressage. The Andalusian is still used in bull fighting in Southern Spain.

Spanish Bull Fight by Manuel González Olaechea y Franco
Andalusian horses owe a great deal to the Carthusian Monks who bred them, beginning in the late Middle Ages. In the late 1400's, studs and bloodlines were founded at monasteries in Terez, Seville, and Cazallo. The monks were excellent breeders and trainers, and kept their horses pure. However, that purity was threatened in the 1800's when Napoleon invaded Spain and his army stole many horses. This caused the Andalusian breed to decline in numbers and it came close to extinction.

Fortunately, one herd of Andalusians was hidden and was used to renew the breed. In 1832, an epidemic devastated Spain's horse population and only a small herd of Andalusians at the Monastery of Cartuja survived. In order to re-establish their breeding programs, exportation of an Andalusian became illegal without Royal consent and the penalty for exporting this treasured horse was death. No Andalusians were exported until 1962.

However, now the Andalusian's numbers are growing around the world. In 2005 there were approximately 400 Andalusians registered in Canada. In the United States, it is still a unique breed, but the population has risen to around 5400 horses. The total number of Andalusian (Lusitano) horses registered with IALHA in 2008 is approximately. 11,000.

In physical appearance, the Andalusian is a compact horse with a distinguished appearance and excellent proportions which balance well with their graceful, yet substantial bodies. The Andalusian has a natural balance, collection, impulsion, and agility. They are between 15.1 to 16.1 hands high with the average being 15.2 hands.

The Andalusian is known for its abundantly thick mane that flows from a long, elegant, well-arched but substantial neck, with stallions having more of a crest than mares. The classic profile is a long head with broad forehead, small ears, large eyes, and a flat or slightly convex nose. The shoulders are well-sloped and the withers are well defined. The massive chest and powerful hindquarters are lean and the long, thick, flowing tail should be low set. The breed has strong, medium legs with very energetic high knee action and short striding.

Approximately 80% of the Andalusians are Gray, (Torca, Ruca), 15% Bay (Castana, Castanha), and 5% black. The following colors are also acceptable but rarely seen: Black Bay, Brown, Chestnut, Buckskin, Dun, Palomino, Cremello (Isabella), Perlino, Roan. Other colors are rare or believed to be non-existent in the purebred Andalusian but may be accepted with proper documentation including parentage verification and photos. All dark spots within white markings or on pink skin must be recorded on the registration application for and the color of all hooves must be noted especially if they are striped.

Pura Raza Espanola by Yeguada San Joaquin
Andalusian Horses possess a proud but docile, calm temperament. The breed is renowned for its ability to learn quickly and easily when treated with respect. They are sensitive, intelligent, and particularly responsive and cooperative with a very willing nature.

The International Andalusian & Lusitano Horse Association is the association that maintains a registry for Purebred Andalusians and Half-Andalusians and is also the official representative of the Lusitano Horse (the modern breed of Andalusian in Portugal) in the USA and Canada.

As for genetic anomalies, veterinarians do not yet know if Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Desmitis (DSLD) has its roots in genetics, overuse of affected limbs, hormone fluctuations (previously-sound broodmares may develop symptoms of DSLD around foaling time), or if it is some combination of these factors. Although the condition is probably best known in gaited breeds (American Saddlebreds, Peruvian Pasos, Peruvian crosses, Standardbreds, and National Show Horses), it has also been diagnosed in Arabians, Thoroughbreds, and Andalusians.

But all that aside, this versatile breed can be found competing in dressage, driving, jumping, cutting and cattle work. It is ridden under both English and Western saddle. Their stunning presence and charisma makes them an asset to any show ring, exhibition or parade. With its love of people, the Andalusian is an ideal family horse.

Author Resource: Written by Crystal A. Eikanger
Crystal writes for, classifieds of Andalusian Horses for sale and other horse breeds, organic farms, trailers for sale and horse tack.

Raising a Pet Coatimundi: Learn The Details

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Raising a pet coatimundi can be quite a challenge at the start especially if you're going to do this for the first time. You need to know a lot of important things. You also need to consider different sets of factors while you're doing this so that you can ascertain that your exotic pet won't grow up having bad habits that may cause you some harm later on.

Pet Coatimundi by Lee Ann Barker
One of the most important things that you need to know about raising a pet coatimundi at home would be not overfeeding your baby during one feeding. You need to watch how much you feed your exotic pet because coatis usually continue feeding until they become really bloated. Overfeeding can lead to inhalation pneumonia; loss of body condition; and loose stools. When you finish feeding your pet coati and it's still hungry, you have to wait for at least 45 minutes before you can offer the bottle again. At 5 weeks of age, your pet coati should start eating an average of one ounce per feeding. You should feed your pet four times daily. You can increase this frequency as your exotic pet gets older. Don't forget to burp your pet coati after each feeding.

The next important thing that you need to know about raising your exotic pet would be the right time when to wean. This is usually up to the pet owner and can be based on your own circumstances. You have to know that the more frequently you bottle feed your baby coati, the less inclined it's going to be on eating solid foods. At 5 to 6 weeks of age, you should start leaving some dry puppy food for your exotic pet. When you start feeding solid foods to your exotic pet, you can mix some apple juice with puppy food or monkey biscuits. Each coati is considered as individual with its own unique taste buds. Some of the favorite foods of coatis include pizza, luncheon meats, newtons, blueberry muffins, watermelon, eggs, and bananas.

Vaccination schedules are another thing that you should consider. These should be the same with puppies and kittens. First vaccinations and worming are given at 5 to 6 weeks of age. After which, this is then done every 3 weeks until coatis reach the age of 16 weeks. Annual boosters and worming are also highly advised. Aside from this, coatis should also receive a dog distemper-parvo shot or DHLP-P and the cat panleukopenia vaccine. You can have your pet coati wormed with any good cat wormer or dog wormer.

Next, never use too much counter flea products because most of these things are toxic to exotic animals. If you have a pet coati that's below 12 weeks of age, it would be best for you to spray Adams brand flea spray on a towel and wipe it on its skin. Don't overdo this.

Lastly, if you have a male coati, it's highly advised that you have it neutered. Males that are intended to be breeders on the other hand, should be mother raised or should be placed in the breeder pen at 4 to 6 months of age.

Author Resource: Written by Autin Hatcher
Read more about important details regarding raising a pet coatimundi at the Tifkar Publishing website.

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A Healthy Dog Eats His Greens

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Like humans, vegetables are also important for the optimum health of dogs. What your dog eats has a direct relationship with your dog's holistic well-being and total lifespan. Vegetables are excellent sources of important vitamins and minerals which are required for the various biological processes of the body. More importantly, vegetables are also great sources of antioxidants and fiber.

Antioxidants are important in preventing damage to cellular membranes. Fiber will also promote the health of the gastrointestinal system. It serves as an additional bulk to the feces thus promoting regular defecation. In this way, constipation is prevented. In general, a greener diet for your pets can promote longer and more quality life.

Veggies ... Let Me at 'Em by the bereted chamois
Since dogs are innately carnivorous, they cannot tolerate cooked vegetables in their meal. That is why a specially formulated supplement is out in the market to help your dogs become healthy and live a longer life. This product is composed of:

  1. Garlic powder is traditionally used for pets to promote the health of the immune system by increasing the production of killer cells and prevent the occurrence of cancer. Garlic can also improve the function of the liver because of its detoxifying effects. It helps the liver to eliminate harmful chemicals inside the body.
  2. Chlorophyllin, which can be isolated from green leafy vegetables, is also a good source of vitamins and minerals. It also has a powerful antimicrobial and antioxidant property.
  3. Parsley also contains abundant vitamins and minerals tat is why it is recommended for its nutritive, immune system booster and breath freshener effects.
  4. Spinach is an excellent source of iron. This is especially great for pregnant and nursing dogs.
  5. Kale is a form of cabbage which is considered to be one of the healthiest vegetables. It contains high amount of beta - carotene, vitamin K and C, and calcium.
  6. Carrot is a root crop rich in beta - carotene and is employed as an effective herbal medicine because of its anti - inflammatory and antiseptic properties.
  7. Broccoli which is also a member of the cabbage family is generally consumed to improve the general well - being of your pets. It can also strengthen the stomach's resistance against harmful microorganisms.
  8. Brussels sprouts which is another part of the cabbage family which is a great supplier of fiber. It also contains abundant amount of vitamin C thus boosting the health of the immune system and vitamin K which promotes good clotting conditions.
  9. Wheat is very useful as dietary roughage. It adds bulk to the feces to prevent constipation. It is also high in manganese, magnesium and tryptophan.
  10. Rice bran is also rich in fiber but it also contains essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals. Rice bran will have a significant impact on your dog's health.

Generally, vegetables contains a high level of not only vitamins and minerals but also antioxidants specifically beta - carotene and alpha - carotene. These types of antioxidants are very effective in lowering the risk of death from cardiovascular diseases and cancers. Antioxidants prevent too much damage of the cells caused by free radicals and toxins inside the body and from the environment.

Author Resource: Written by Robert Palmer
If you want to improve your Dogs Health, feed him or her greens from Actipet. VitaNet®, LLC Vitamin Store.

Article From Pet Article World