It's a Dog's Life

It's a Dog's Life
Furry Four-legged Fun

Family Felines

Family Felines
Cats Rule and Dogs Drool

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?

Won't You Be My Neigh-Bor?
Ride 'Em Cowgirl(boy)

Birds of a Feather

Birds of a Feather
Flights of Fancy

The Ideal Rabbit Hutch

Friday, March 11, 2011

Not only are rabbits cute, they make excellent pets requiring minimal care once you know what you're doing. Bear in mind that rabbits can live anywhere from 5-10 years so make sure you're ready to make that kind of commitment before buying one. Also be prepared to provide your pet with an appropriate rabbit hutch so your bunny can feel safe and secure. Consider the amount of time you have available to interact with your pet because rabbits are social creatures and shouldn't be left alone for long periods of time. If you're thinking of getting more than one rabbit then consider purchasing one of the larger multi-level rabbit hutches available.

Double Decker Rabbit Hutch for the Bunny with Everything by Neil Bird
If you decide to buy an indoor rabbit hutch then you will have to provide it with some outdoor time. A rabbit run in your garden would be ideal but be very careful to make sure it's predator proof. Never leave your rabbit unsupervised in an insecure rabbit run. If your rabbit is kept indoors you must provide it with entertainment. Allow your rabbit freedom to run around in a room but make sure there is nothing to harm it such as chemicals and electric cables. Rabbits love to chew so provide your bunny with toys and safe things to chew on.

If, on the other hand, you have room in your garden or backyard, you may consider an outdoor rabbit hutch. Outdoor rabbit hutches come in a large variety of sizes and designs. Always ensure you choose the proper size for your rabbit, keeping in mind the general rule that the hutch should be at least 4 times the size of your rabbit to allow it to move around fairly easily. Bigger is always better and some rabbit hutches even come with a rabbit run to provide your rabbit with some outdoor exploration experience. Rabbits love to hop around and explore.

When space is limited you can elect to purchase a multi-level rabbit hutch to ensure your rabbit has ample space to move about. Wooden rabbit hutches are the best when choosing an outdoor hutch. Some multi-level rabbit hutches even provide attic and storage space. The attic space can be filled with straw during the winter months to provide warmth and insulation. Storage space can be used to keep food and treats for your rabbit in a convenient and tidy manner. If you live in a particularly cold part of the world, rabbit hutch covers are available to provide extra warmth and insulation.

Whichever design you choose, make sure it is sturdy and safe. Rabbits are easily frightened and your rabbit hutch should provide an enclosed area where your rabbit can hide from anything that intimidates it. So next time you're choosing from amongst the many rabbit hutches available, remember these simple rules: size, safety and practicality. Making the right choice can mean the difference between having a healthy, thriving pet and one that is unhappy and unhealthy.

Author Resource: Tom Woodcock is a Pet Lover, pet product expert and builder of rabbit hutches. To learn more about Large Rabbit Hutches and Rabbit Runs visit him online.

All About Panther Chameleons

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Panther Chameleons originate from Madagascar, which is off the coast of Africa. They are a relatively large species of Chameleon. Male Panther Chameleons grow larger than female Panther Chameleons. Their heads have a low casque and males have a shovel shaped rostral process on their nose, which is less developed on the females. Female Panther Chameleons typically have dull coloration compared to males. Panther Chameleon types are named based on their locales, the town or village in which they are located. Their coloration and patterns help determine which locale they belong to.

Ambilobe Panther Chameleon by Pashka
  • Ambanja Panther Chameleons are a locality from northwest Madagascar. Male specimens from this locale are known to show lots of blue, green and red. Typically their body is green to blue with either red or blue barring. Sometimes body coloration can show yellow and the eyes have red radiation patterns.
  • Ambato Panther Chameleons are a locality on a coastal peninsula slightly north of Ambanja in Madagascar. Males are known to show high blue, white, maroon and yellow and their body is typically blue to white with maroon barring. They do not show red radiation patterns in their eyes. 
  • Ambilobe Panther Chameleons are often referred to as Sirama Panther Chameleons or Picasso Panther Chameleons. They are located in northwest Madagascar. Ambilobe Panther Chameleons are divided into two color patterns - Blue-Bar and Red-Bar. They show color combinations of green, blue, yellow, orange and red. 
  • Ankaramy Panther Chameleons are located near the southern most extend of the species in northwest Madagascar and they are often marketed by the name Pink Panther. Males display a vibrant pink coloration with light blue crests. 
  • Diego Suarez or Antsiranana Panther Chameleons are located at the northern most tip of Madagascar. They typically have a V bar instead of a U bar. They are green with maroon-red colored bars. 
  • Nosy Be Panther Chameleons are located on an island locality of the coast of northwest Madagascar and are known to show green, blue, yellow and red colors. They body is typically green with darker green bars. Some are known to be blue with blue barring. 
  • Reunion Panther Chameleons are located far off the eastern coast of Madagascar and are very similar to Nosy Be Panther Chameleons with green and red coloration. 
  • Sambava Panther Chameleons are located in northeast Madagascar. They display a U bar rather than a typical Y or V bar on their flans. Their coloration ranges from green, yellow, orange and red with dark pattern lines. 
  • Tamatave Panther Chameleons are from the east coast of Madagascar. They have a green base that turns to red when in display when in display with white speckling.

Male Nosy Be Panther Chameleon by AZ pics n stuff
As you can see, Panther Chameleons come in many different colors and patterns. These patterns and colors are based on the locale from where they originate. Panther Chameleons are truly one of the more beautiful of all the Chameleons. They display some of the most vibrant colors of all creatures in the world.

Author Resource: Written by Chris Smith
Chris has been in the reptile trade for 10+ years and has experience with many different types of reptiles. He manages two reptile businesses and attends many reptile expos. Visit Chameleon Supplies to find everything you need to properly care for your Chameleon.

Which is Better - Long or Short Horse Riding Boots?

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

If you are starting out in horse riding, or even if you are not, a common debate is often whether you should choose to ride in traditional long riding boots or short jodhpur boots, perhaps with chaps or gaiters. The choice really depends upon a few factors; what you are going to use them for, your style of riding and personal preference. Your budget and the size and shape of your legs may also play a part in the type of horse riding boots that you choose.

Whichever type of horse riding boots that you choose, the important thing should be that they are designed especially for horse riding. For safety they should feature a smooth sole with a small heel which will prevent the foot from slipping through the stirrup and getting stuck in the event of an accident. They should also allow enough flexibility around the leg and ankle to enable you to have a close contact with the horse and keep your legs in the correct position.

Vintage Leather Riding Boots by funkomavintage and Short Jodhpurs by Horlicks
Firstly, the activities that you take part in will affect your decision. If you are competing then it is often considered that a smart long leather riding boot is the acceptable footwear. Sometimes, the rules of a competition will insist upon long leather boots or at the very least jodhpur boots with matching leather gaiters. Certainly short jodhpur boots with a pair of half chaps will not be permitted. On the other hand, if you ride in showing classes, you should wear short riding boots without gaiters or chaps. Whilst this is normal for showing classes, in general this is not recommended for everyday riding as your legs require some protection from rubbing or pinching from the saddle or stirrup leathers. If you will be wearing your horse riding boots also for yard work then you need to give some consideration to durability of the boot that you choose. In general, long riding boots do not allow enough freedom of movement for mucking out or handling horses all day, and more to the point, most people would not want to wear their smart leather riding boots to get dirty around the stables all day! In this case, a sturdy pair of short boots with half chaps, or specifically designed rubber boots might be more practical.

Some people simply prefer short jodhpur boots for horse riding. They feel that this affords more flexibility in the ankle and provide a more versatile fit. Combined with a pair of half chaps or leather gaiters, they can still be a smart outfit. For those people who have short or wide legs, it can be difficult to find a pair of long riding boots that fit well unless you look to have a pair of horse riding boots custom made and in this situation it is better to opt for short boots and gaiters. Other people much prefer long riding boots, claiming that they are more flattering and look smarter and give a better protection to the legs.

On the whole, it is usual for horse riders to have more than one pair of horse riding boots; a short pair of jodhpur boots with chaps or gaiters for yard work and riding at home, and then a smart pair of leather long boots for competition. This enables you to keep your smart boots looking smart for when you need them. When it comes to choosing your boots, it is advisable to shop around to find the best quality boots that you can afford. Always remember that you get what you pay for and a cheap pair of boots may not last as long as a good quality but more expensive pair of horse riding boots. Shopping around online can be a good way to find quality boots at a reasonable price once you are clear on the style of boots that you are looking for.

Author Resource: Written by Josie Amani
The Equine Store is packed full of quality horse riding clothing, everything from horse riding boots to breeches. Visit the shop at www.equine-store.com

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Jardine Parrot Information

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

The Jardine's parrot refers to the Red Fronted parrot found in the central regions of Africa. The parrot was named after the Englishman Sir William Jardine. His son returned to England from the Congo in Central Africa in the 1840's and Sir William Jardine named the species 'Pionus Gulielmi' and published it in 1849. The species is actually comprised of 3 subspecies and they can be distinguished apart by the slightly different shades of red on the bends of their wings, upper legs and head.

Pair of Jardine's Parrots by TJ Lin
These birds grow to between 10-12 inches long and are predominantly green in color. They have a short thick tail made up of mostly black feathers as well as black feathers appearing on the back, wings, neck and head. As mentioned before they also have red colourings which appear as the bird ages into adulthood. The male and female are outwardly identical in appearance, so in order to identify gender a DNA test would have to be carried out.

The Jardine's parrot is quite versatile when being considered as a pet and they are increasingly popular amongst parrot owners. Due to their size, they would be considered a medium sized parrot or on the smaller side of medium, so they require less space than many other medium to large birds. Also they have a very good temperament and are quiet compared to other parrots of similar size and larger, so they are able to be kept by people living in smaller spaces such as an apartment where the noise and the neighbors would normally be an issue. They are still intelligent and engaging and like to play around and of course they still need to be kept occupied with daily interaction as well as a number of different parrot toys. They are good talkers as well and can develop quite a vocabulary as well as mimic sounds and whistle tunefully. Many owners would say of their Jardine's parrot that they get all of the entertainment and intelligence of a large bird without the space requirement and noise usually associated with a large bird.

Regarding their availability as a pet they are freely bred in captivity and although the trade, import and export of wild caught Jardine's is illegal you can pick one up from a breeder or parrot pet store for around $750 to $1,000.

With all of the positive attributes I have listed here about the Jardine's parrot, they make a very good choice as a pet as long as you are able to afford one and haven't set your heart on another specific species already.

Author Resource: Written by Preston Mane
This part is important. Go to my website right now to learn about Jardine Parrots. While you are there you might learn a thing or two about Amboina King Parrots as well. My free Parrot Secrets Newsletter might have what you need, sign up for it, it's free.

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Understanding Hamster Behavior

Monday, March 7, 2011

Watching your hamster frolic around his cage can provide you with hours of enjoyment, but what exactly is he up to? Is he just playing, or do his actions have some other meaning associated with them. Hamsters are complicated little creatures and understanding a little more about why they do the things they do can help you keep your hamster healthy and stress-free. It's a well-known fact that reducing stress for a hamster is the best thing you can do to help your hamster live a long and healthy life.

Hamster Periscope by mascht_i
If you see your hamster creeping along the floor of his cage, your hamster is nervous about something, usually something outside of his cage. Do you have a cat nearby, or is there a lot of commotion that could be startling your hamster? Keep an eye out for things that could be causing your hamster stress. If things get worse and your hamster gets frightened he may put his ears forward and puff his cheeks up. This is a classic sign of fright, and may be quickly followed by an emptying of his cheek pouches if he was carrying any food in them. At this point he's not happy about the situation at all and is getting ready to run.

If you ever attempt to handle your hamster and you notice that his ears are back then you'd better remove your hand quickly as he's feeling very aggressive and is likely to bite. Another warning sign if you ever go to handle your hamster is if you see him lying on his back with his teeth bare - you may think this a sign of submission but it's actually another sign that your hamster is frightened and he will bite you in this state if you attempt to pick him up.

Some of the more pleasant signs to look for in your hamster are burrowing and grooming. If you spot your hamster burrowing (which is very likely) it just means that he's looking for stray bits of food lying amongst his bedding material that he may have missed before. They'll spend a great deal of time doing this so it's an easy one to spot. If you catch your hamster grooming or stretching then you are looking at a particularly content and happy hamster!

If you have particularly good hearing you may occasionally catch your hamster making squeaking noises. Consider yourself lucky, as the average hamster squeak lasts only a fraction of a second, and the vast majority of hamster vocalization takes place in a frequency range that is completely undetectable by humans.

A more noticeable noise is teeth chattering - this is a sign that your hamster is unsettled, and is seen most often when a hamster is introduced to a cage that already has a hamster in it. Watch for the warning signs of potential combat between the two hamsters.

Hamsters use various scent glands on their bodies to mark their territory by rubbing the glands up against the sides of the cage. If there's a spot in the cage they wish to mark but can't get to with their glands they'll scratch their scent glands with their rear feet and then walk around the area they wish to claim as theirs. When males and females in the same cage are ready to mate they'll both reduce their markings, giving each other the signal that it's okay for the other to approach.

You may occasionally catch your hamster chewing at the bars of his cage. Although he may look like he's trying to chew his way to freedom, he's actually keeping his every-growing teeth at a reasonable length. If he didn't continue to keep his teeth ground down they'd cause serious dental problems and illness. Just make sure the bars on the cage aren't rusty!

Author Resource: Written by Adam King
Visit the Hamster-Zone website for even more detailed information on hamster care, hamster diet, hamster cages, and much, much more. Learn important tips on how to keep your hamster healthy and happy, including proper diet, care, and cage enrichment.

What is That? It's a Ferret

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Ferrets can be extremely lovable pets. They just have that adorable face that makes you smile. Ferrets are so lovable, people of the world have been making them their pets going as far back as the ancient Greeks. Perhaps Socrates even had one. Even better, ferrets make great gifts to loved ones; Queen Elizabeth I of England thought so. The first things I think of when I imagine a new pet are chores and added responsibility, but ferrets are actually very easily manageable.

But let's get back to the real reason anybody is ever interested in a ferret. They're just really cool looking. I think of a ferret as an exotic pet, even though millions of people have them. A ferret is just something you don't see everyday. Dogs and cats are everywhere, hell it even rains cats and dogs at times. Ferrets are just cool, there is no doubt about it. When your friends come over and see this animal they're going to have one of maybe two responses. First, "What is that?" or second, "Is that a ferret?" These questions will be quickly followed by adjectives describing the ferret, such as Cool, Awesome, Crazy, How Cute!

Ferrets Out For a Stroll by Hans Splinter
What's most important to learn about ferrets as a pet is this: They are like precious baby kittens that never grow up.

Like cats, ferrets are carnivores. However, ferrets need more protein in their diets, so substituting ferret food with cat food may not be a wise idea. Ferrets also enjoy the sweet tastes of fresh fruits, such as bananas, strawberries, raisins. These should be given as a treat and used sparingly. Even though ferrets are most active during dusk and dawn, they easily adapt to any owner's schedule. Cool thing about ferrets is they love to sleep. They can sleep all day. But watch out when they get up. They are just a bundle of energy and fun when they are wide awake. Ferrets enjoy games of hide and seek, tag, and playful wrestling. Ferrets get along great with children, as long as they are handled correctly. Young children should not be left alone with a ferret. Young children tend to squeeze small creatures to the point of discomfort. Many times like a small dog, even a ferret may bite as a response.

For some reason, ferrets have been given a bad reputation as nippers. Nipping is like biting, but much softer. Most ferrets lack the jaw power to break the skin of a human if bitten. However, this does not mean a neglected ferret will not become a biter. If given the proper attention and patience, a ferret will rarely, if ever, bite a human. I must over-emphasize that neglected and mistreated ferrets make bad pets. They do not just sit back with the cat attitude of, "Look at me." Ferrets are very curious to their surroundings and are always on the prowl snooping around. With that said, many times ferrets' curiosity get the best of them. Electrical cords and reclining chairs are a ferret's worst enemies. The obvious would be that ferrets can be electrocuted when they chew on electrical chords, but many ferrets have been known to climb into the inner workings of a reclining sofa, only to be squashed to death when a person sits down on the sofa. Common sense is the best way to keep your home ferret-proof.

Ferrets are also known for their exploratory and gathering skills. Like little detectives they scurry around seemingly in search of something. If there's a hole in the wall, a ferret will definitely have to check it out. The temptation is too great for a poor lil' ferret. He's got to know what's in that hole. And what happens to the items a ferret deems collectible? Only a ferret knows for sure.

Lastly, like all pets, proper health care is needed in order to ensure a happy, healthy ferret. Ferrets do not smell, but it's only common sense to know that if you fail to clean an animal's cage, odors may linger. Besides, ferrets love to take baths, and are so small that it takes only a couple of minutes to fully groom a ferret. So remember, if you clean your ferret's cage and bathe him once in a while, your ferret will smell like peaches.

Author Resource: Written by Jim Worthington
Gabe owns Pet Ferret Secrets which helps others learn about pet ferret care.

Breeding Discus Fish - Some General Tips

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Breeding discus fish is perhaps one of the biggest challenges facing tropical aquarium enthusiasts today. By nature, discus are extremely picky, and if their living conditions aren't exactly perfect, they will flat-out refuse to breed.

But there are a few ways to make sure your discus fish are happy in their home. And if you can keep them happy, there's a good chance you'll end up successfully breeding them.

A Tank of Discus Fish by Marisa Roman
Natural Environment
Discus fish come from the murky, warm waters of the Amazon River in South America, so it makes sense to simulate that natural habitat. The way the fish see it, happiness starts with the right aquarium environment, and when they are happy they are much more likely to breed.

Water Conditions
Make sure the water temperature stays somewhere in the mid 80's F. Many breeders keep their discus aquariums at 85 degrees, but say that a slight deviation (by one or two degrees at the most) shouldn't cause any problems. Also, Discus fish prefer pH levels between 5.5 and 7, so aim for this range.

Structures
The Amazon River is full of places to hide - in fact that's how the Discus survives, by ducking away from predators and laying low most of the time. Try to mimic this in your aquarium. Discus love to hide, and become stressed if not given adequate cover. And if your fish is stressed, you can forget about breeding them! So provide plenty of places for them to hide.

One of the easiest mistakes to make, especially as a beginner, is to introduce some Discus into an aquarium with no cover features at all. While it is nice to watch them swim out in the open, it puts big stresses on them. And breeding discus fish that are stressed is impossible.

Diet
Make sure your fish are happy with the meals you give them by including frozen blood worms, beef heart, brine shrimp, and/or white worms. These foods promote general health which makes breeding discus fish that much easier.

A Note About Diet
If the water quality isn't perfect, your discus won't eat. If they're not eating, it's usually because of an environmental stress. Evaluate your water conditions immediately and make corrections. Discus are picky fish, and flat-out refuse to eat if they're not happy. Unfortunately, they'll literally starve themselves to death doing this, so take action as soon as you recognize a problem.

When Discus fish are happy, they eat like pigs. That's how you'll know you've got all the conditions dialed in perfectly. And when they are happy, they're more than willing to mate. In a way, successfully breeding discus fish comes down to keeping them happy.

By keeping the water conditions and diet just right, you'll soon be well on your way to breeding discus fish.

Author Resource: "Discus" David Teasock has been raising and breeding discus fish for 10 years. He understands the frustrations people have, and encourages everyone to visit his blog DiscusFishBreedingGuide.com.

Owning an African Grey Parrot

Friday, March 4, 2011

The African Grey Parrot is one of the most popular species of parrot to own as a pet. Their tame nature and sweet disposition are reasons enough for most potential pet owners to choose the African Grey Parrot. Because they live for 60 to 80 years, the parrot is a lifelong commitment, one that should not be entered into lightly. It's important to plan, research, and understand the species before committing to the ownership of this amazing parrot.

Give Me a Kiss, Mwhu! by Peri Apex
The African Grey is a species of wild parrot found mainly in the coastal regions of West and Central Africa in countries such as Ivory Coast, Tanzania, Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Kenya, Angola, Sierra Leon, and many more. They are a very popular breed because of their high intelligence levels, their calm and gentle nature, and their incredible speaking and mimicry abilities. Because of these personality traits, the demand for the bird as pets is increasing. As the capturing and pet trading increases, so does the deforestation of the African Grey Parrot's habitat.

Choosing a wild parrot as a pet, further promotes parrot trading and deforestation. It also increases the risk of disease and behavioral problems. Choosing a parrot from a reputable breeder will allow for greater chances of parrot/owner relationship success. Choosing a parrot companion from a breeder that loves, hand rears, and understands the needs of the parrot species will ensure that a new parrot pet is happy, healthy, and well adjusted.

There are two subspecies of African Grey Parrot: the Timneh African Grey ("TAG") and the Congo African Grey ("CAG"). Both subspecies are considered to be a medium sized parrot, ranging in size from 10-14 inches. They vary only in feather and beak color and the regions of Africa to which they are endemic. Personalities and vocal abilities are similar, and when choosing, it really comes down to a matter of owner preference.

Breeders can assist in the process of transitioning the African Grey Parrot pet into their new home. They will provide new owners with specific care instructions such as nutritional needs, cage and grooming care instructions, and personality insights.

Like most parrot species, the parrot requires a well balanced, varied diet that includes, protein pellets, fresh fruits and vegetables, and seed and nut mixes. Their dishes and cage should be daily maintained by wiping down and washing all surfaces. The African Grey Parrot also requires plenty of cage room to stretch their wings. Because of their gentle and sensitive nature, they can become easily stressed if not transitioned gently.
Once the transition to their new homes occurs, the African Grey Parrot can begin a trick training and speaking routine. They are highly intelligent creatures, and if dealt with on a routine basis, they will respond well to trick and speech training instructions.

Choosing a parrot as a pet can be a wonderfully rewarding experience if properly researched beforehand. An owner must understand the enormity of their ownership responsibilities in order to have a successful relationship with your parrot. Owners must choose their parrots carefully. Above all, the owners of parrots must love unconditionally, patiently, and with their whole hearts in order to make the most of their new lifelong parrot friendship.

Author Resource: Patrick Dell is an African Grey Parrot expert. For more great information on the african grey parrots, visit his site dedicated to african grey parrot information.

Introduction to Feeding Pet Snakes

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Having a pet snake is a pretty big commitment - they can live up to 20 years. Before rushing out to the pet store, look into different breeds and research aspects of snake care such as skin shedding, and the temperature at which your snake will thrive.

Diet and hydration are, of course, crucial elements to caring for your scaly friend. Snakes need plenty of fresh water, so top up your pet's supply regularly. Don't be surprised if your snake doesn't eat up immediately. Many wait until nightfall to eat - most prefer to eat in the dark. So snakes may leave the prey for several hours before tackling it. Often, they drag their prey into their hide box before consumption.

Mouse Dinner for the Snake by Ferdi
In terms of diet, different breeds and sizes require different kinds and amounts of food. Smaller snakes will eat smaller prey. But all snakes are strictly carnivorous, and swallow their prey whole because they cannot tear or bite their food. However, their specially adapted jaws allow them to swallow prey larger than their head.

Creatures like lizards, small mammals, birds, fish, snails, insects and even other snakes can all be on the menu, with some variation between breeds. If the prey is capable of attack, for example if it is a rodent like a rat or a mouse, it will need to kill before eating. Defenseless creatures like earthworms frogs or insects will simply be swallowed whole.

One of the first and most important decisions is whether to give your snake pre-killed or live prey, and this debate continues to engage snake keepers. Really it comes down to personal preference, and there are pros and cons to both ways of feeding. If you go for the pre-killed option, be sure to have enough separate freezer space. Raising your own prey to kill, or having to go out to the pet store every time you need more food, can be expensive and time-consuming.

Frozen prey must be thoroughly thawed and warmed in advance. Defrost in the fridge or cool water, and heat slightly in warm water ahead of feeding. If you are feeding an already killed mouse, use tongs to dangle the animal in front of your snake. Use your fingers and your snake may think they're on the menu, too, and bite you. But if you don't want the hassle of defrosting and warming food, you may prefer to give your snake live prey. Just be aware that the snag with live prey like mice is that rodents will bite and scratch as long as they can, and can inflict serious injuries on a snake, especially if the reptile makes a mistake when trying to make the kill.

Whichever option you choose, go for food that's the size of the snake's girth at its largest. And whether you are going for the pre-killed or live option, get your snake used to this type of food as early on in its life as possible. You should find snakes fairly low maintenance when it comes to food. Just find out when and what and how much it needs to eat and stick to it.

Author Resource: Written by Daphne Reid
Find more Snake Care Articles at PetPeoplesPlace.com

Taking Care of Your Guinea Pigs

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Guinea pigs are a rather unique creature that also have a very interesting history. They, at one time, existed in the wild and they were also raised by Inca Indians in Peru. Several centuries ago, this unique animal was also introduced in Europe as a pet. Many people still enjoy having the guinea pig as a pet, both because of its gentle nature and because of what it is able to bring to a family. If you love guinea pigs yourself and would like to have one as a pet, there are a number of things for you to consider which can really help to make your pet as happy and healthy as possible.

Guinea Pigs Along for the Ride by Richard Carter
As with most types of animals, your guinea pig is going to need to eat a well-balanced diet in order to remain healthy. Much of the commercially available guinea pig food is going to suffice in this regard, but many people also like to supplement the guinea pig diet in order to provide them with additional nutrients and some interesting eating. Feeding them alfalfa, hay, various types of sprouts and other raw vegetables from the refrigerator is always an excellent choice for these animals. Make sure that whatever you feed them, however, is pesticide free.

Interestingly enough, a guinea pig is unable to produce its own vitamin C as many other animals in the wild are able to do. Humans share this inability with the guinea pig, and just as you would want to supplement your own source of vitamin C, you would want to make sure that your guinea pig has a ready supply of it available as well. Sprinkle a little bit of vitamin C on their food on a daily basis, and it will help to keep your guinea pigs as healthy as possible.

Something else that every guinea pig needs is a great place to sleep. Many of us tend to take the guinea pig out of its hutch on a regular basis, but it is still going to need to be put into its own area from time to time. It is not necessary for you to go to the extremes as far as the guinea pig hutch is concerned, but there are some that are commercially available which do a fairly good job. Choosing the right type of bedding, such as pine shavings is also a good idea in order to keep your guinea pig as healthy as possible.

One final thing that I would like to mention about the guinea pig is the fact that it requires a lot of interaction and absolutely loves human contact. That is one of the reasons why so many people fall in love with this unique animal and want to have them as part of their family. Make sure that you are giving the guinea pig what it needs in this regard, and you will help to make it as happy as possible. As with most animals, a happy animal is a healthy animal so giving it attention can really make you a responsible pet owner.

Author Resource: Alison Wood shares her tips for living with all different types of pets over at the aptly named pet blog, Pet Hooligans. To find out more about all your favorite little hooligans and how to increase their health and happiness, take a look at the website today ==> http://www.pethooligans.com/

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