Facts on Leopard Gecko Reproduction

Leopard gecko reproduction is an important and rewarding part of any leo keepers experience. Not only will you get new leos, you'll also be able to produce more morphs through selective breeding. Learning how to reproduce known morphs can become quite lucrative for any breeder and keeper. So let's learn more about this interesting subject.

Baby Geckos by Ronnie Tucker

Sex Facts
One of the first skills you have to learn is how to determine the sex of your pet. The basic difference between the male and the female is the hemipenal bulge that exists only in males. This can be found on the underside of the animal near the tail just after the vent. You might also notice a 'V' shaped row of pores somewhere near the bulge. These are the male anal pores that should be very noticeable.

When you are new to sexing these animals, you might get confused by some strange but very possible female characteristics. Females also have pores in their hind side but they are not as noticeable as the males. Leos also naturally store fat in their tails. This fat can sometimes cause the tail to bulge up and can be mistaken as a hemipenal bulge in females. Be wary of these situations. If in doubt, try to ask a reliable breeder for confirmation.

Facts on Selective Breeding
The process of selective breeding can be one of the hardest to master. There are sometimes so many traits to keep track of that it ends up being a 'learn as you do' thing. Experience is invaluable but there are some things that you can know outright. One of them is the difference between recessive traits and dominant traits.

Dominant traits are the obvious traits that you can see. When you say that a trait is dominant, it is the trait that will appear should the leo inherit two 'genes' that determine a single trait (for example, should the lizard inherit a dominant trait like orange coloring versus a recessive trait of a different color, the orange will be the one visible even though the lizard has the genes for both traits).

Some common dominant traits would include the orange coloring for tangerines and hypos, the carrot tails, and the giants. Some common recessive traits would include albinism, the patternless morph, and blizzards.

Mating Facts
The mating process in leopard gecko reproduction can be quite violent at times. Males will often become aggressive towards females during the process. This is when you should be most careful. If your female does not accept the male's advances, she will start to fight back and you may end up with a lot of fighting resulting in injuries. If this happens when you attempt to mate your lizards, separate them at least for a few days. Try again once things have cooled down a bit.

Egg Facts
One of the cooler things you can do with leos is to control the sex of the next generation of lizards. You can use differing incubation temperatures to change the sex of the lizards while they are in their eggs. If you keep the temp at 79 to 84 degrees (right about the temp of the cool area of a tank), then you'll get females. If you keep the temp at around 86 to 90 degrees (about the temp of the warm area of the tank), then you'll get males.

Author Resource: Written by Donna Perez
Donna Perez is a lizard enthusiast who has vast experience of raising Leopard Geckos. For more information about Leopard Gecko Reproduction, Visit Leopard Gecko Heaven.

6 Useful and Interesting Tips About Bearded Dragons

Most reptiles found throughout the world range from the weird and wonderful to the just down right bizarre, which makes the fascinating creatures to observe, study and yes even keep in your own home! One of the most unusual and unique lizards out there would have to be Australia's famous bearded dragon. Because they are native to this part of the world, they have some very specific requirements to keep and care for them, especially if you don't live in a dry, hot desert. As a result, there are many things you'll need to be aware of and consider if you're thinking of having one as a pet. If not, I'm sure you'll find the following tips to be quite interesting anyway.

Here's Why They're Called "Bearded" Dragons by Scott Kinmartin

So firstly you need to consider the bearded dragon's natural habitat. They live in a variety of places throughout Australia, but most commonly in central dry desert regions, scrubland and even coastal forests. However it's pretty much hot throughout the year (especially in the north) in Oz. Therefore you should replicate these conditions in the enclosure. You'll need to be aware of the humidity as well as this plays a large role in the health and well-being of captive bred beardies.

Also they need plenty of water. Now I know you may be thinking, "A desert reptile, needing water - really?" But the answer is yes, most definitely! A dehydrated bearded dragon can be prone to health problems in the future.

What makes these reptiles so interesting and unique is the variety of behaviors they display. In fact they were named after the 'inflating beard' demonstration they use when threatened or during mating. Some other behaviors include arm waving, head bobbing and tail curbing, many of which are quite entertaining to watch.

You'll also be glad to know that they have an incredibly placid, child-friendly temperament. This means they make the perfect family pet. They're very active at times as well. Combine this with their amusing behaviors and great personality and they can safely keep the kids (and you) entertained for hours.

These lizards have become incredibly popular in the pet trade. Ever since they were first smuggled out of Australia in the 1970's, they have spread throughout the world and been successfully bred, kept and cared for in captivity. This way you can be sure they'll make a great pet as so many others around the globe would agree.

Finally, you should probably know that bearded dragons are available in a diverse range of species, sizes and colors. This variation in color is also known as a morph and range from red to brown to yellows and everything in between. In rare cases you can even find pure white bearded dragons. They can grow to be up to 2 feet in length (depending on the species), so you'll need to make sure you have plenty of space to accommodate this.

There's heaps more to learn about bearded dragons and many other things which make them the most interesting reptiles to keep. So keep researching and I'm sure you'll be ready to keep your own in no time at all.

About the Author: Written by Lauren Powell
If you want to learn more about bearded dragons, try visiting Bearded Dragon Answers, a free resource on how to keep and care for healthy, happy bearded dragons for years to come.

Article Source: http://www.articlesnatch.com

Lighting, Heating and UVB for Chameleons

Chameleons, being reptiles, have a different attitude towards night and day, thus they are more sensitive to changing temperatures and lighting ad compared to humans and other warm-blooded animals. They are also more inclined to be active at night, and start their day once dusk takes place. However, when they are taken as pets, their lifestyle changes, and this becomes hard for them to adjust with. Hence, by the use of proper lighting and heating in their cages, chameleons will still be able to enjoy living with their owners as they think they are still living in their natural habitat.

Chameleon in Her Comfy Abode by jasmo

So, if you are going to install lighting and heating equipment inside your chameleon cage, it's best to follow these tips below:

1. Consider the proper placing of the light bulbs. Some owners just place the light bulbs anywhere they want to, or at any place at which the cage space can accommodate. Some owners on the other hand place lights in order to see clearly which directions their pet goes while inside the enclosure. However, lighting for chameleons serves a different purpose. When placed at the wrong positions, chameleons might get blinded by the light because the rays are just too much. Hence, when placing bulbs, particularly fluorescent ones, make sure that they allow only enough rays to get through the bottom of the cage; it is also recommended that they are placed just above the plants, so that there's still enough shade left for the chameleon to go to.

2. Use UVB bulbs at the lower parts of the cage. UVA and UVB bulbs have shorter wavelengths, and they become more useful during the darkness. Chameleons rely on UVB when hunting for food at night, however, since they are already in captivity, the ultraviolet rays serve to support the maintenance of their natural habitat, otherwise they will get homesick and depressed.

3. Offer sufficient heat inside the cage. Aside from light, chameleons also need humidity, and this can be generated not only by sufficient supply of water and mist, but also of heat. Thus, it is recommended to place a heater inside the cage to promote sufficient warmth for the chameleon to enjoy. This also encourages the development of better humidity, which is a crucial part of a chameleon's natural habitat.

4. Gauge the temperatures regularly. Things sometimes become too hot or too cold for a chameleon, thus you have to keep track of the changing temperatures inside the cage. If you don't know at which settings to adjust the heaters and misters, then you might as well make good use of a thermometer and hygrometer to measure the right amounts of heat and humidity in the enclosure. This way you will be able to set the surrounding tools properly and accordingly, thus keeping your chameleon happy.

Chameleons easily change their moods depending on their surrounding temperatures, thus it is important to keep their habitat cool and humid. Using the right tools will promote a more natural habitat, which chameleons love all throughout.

Author Resource: Written by Chris Smith
As a herp keeper, I have done tons of research on Chameleon Supplies to help keep your chameleons happy.

Common Boa Keeping - the Perfect Pet Snake

Common boas (boa constrictor imperator) are underrated as a pet snake. The majority of snakes kept as pets are corn snakes or royal pythons. These species are popular for good reasons. They are small enough to be manageable, easy to care for, and are often good feeders and breeders if kept in optimal conditions. Neither, however, have the majesty of a boa constrictor.

Boa constrictors, like all boas, are part of the Boidae family of snakes, along with the pythons and anaconda. In general the Boidae (or simply Boids) are considered to be large snakes, although none of the boas reach the massive sizes of the true giants such as the green anaconda, or the reticulated python.

Boa Constrictor Scarf by Daniel McConnell

Boa constrictors in general can be considered medium to large snakes, with the common boa being one of the smallest and averaging around 6 - 8 foot in length. Neonates average 14 - 20" in length, and a female may give birth to as many as 40.

Boa constrictor imperator is often confused with boa constrictor constrictor, or the red tailed boa. The true red tails, while superficially similar, are larger than the common boa, with brighter and better defined red anterior markings.

Most species of boa constrictor do very well in captivity. They will generally take frozen/defrosted rodents and due to their docile nature they are easily handled. It must however always be remembered that these are large and powerful snakes, and should always be given the respect they deserve. Large specimens should only be handled when another person is present, and enclosures should always be latched and/or locked especially if children are present.

Boas are best kept individually, and an adult can be kept successfully in an enclosure measuring 6 x 3 feet. Since they are primarily terrestrial, height is not as important as floor area, although many specimens will occasionally climb if given the chance, especially when young. The enclosure needs to be heated to a temperature gradient around 80 - 85 F. A basking spot of 90 - 95 F, and a cool end no lower than 75 F will allow the snake to thermoregulate properly. Heat sources should always be thermostatically controlled, and properly guarded to prevent possible burns.

In addition a water bowl large enough for the boa to soak in should always be provided, along with suitable substrate and at least one hide box. In these conditions a common boa can live for more than 30 years in captivity.

Boa constrictors are not the right pet for everyone, but if you are thinking about keeping snakes do some research and find out more about these amazing animals. While a corn snake or royal python makes a good pet, neither compare to the sheer beauty of the boa constrictor.

Author Resource: Written by Billy Deakin
For more information on boa constrictor imperator and keeping boas, try visiting http://www.boa-care.com, a popular website that provides tips, advice and resources on caring for boas.

All About Panther Chameleons

Panther Chameleons originate from Madagascar, which is off the coast of Africa. They are a relatively large species of Chameleon. Male Panther Chameleons grow larger than female Panther Chameleons. Their heads have a low casque and males have a shovel shaped rostral process on their nose, which is less developed on the females. Female Panther Chameleons typically have dull coloration compared to males. Panther Chameleon types are named based on their locales, the town or village in which they are located. Their coloration and patterns help determine which locale they belong to.

Ambilobe Panther Chameleon by Pashka

• Ambanja Panther Chameleons are a locality from northwest Madagascar. Male specimens from this locale are known to show lots of blue, green and red. Typically their body is green to blue with either red or blue barring. Sometimes body coloration can show yellow and the eyes have red radiation patterns.
• Ambato Panther Chameleons are a locality on a coastal peninsula slightly north of Ambanja in Madagascar. Males are known to show high blue, white, maroon and yellow and their body is typically blue to white with maroon barring. They do not show red radiation patterns in their eyes. 
• Ambilobe Panther Chameleons are often referred to as Sirama Panther Chameleons or Picasso Panther Chameleons. They are located in northwest Madagascar. Ambilobe Panther Chameleons are divided into two color patterns - Blue-Bar and Red-Bar. They show color combinations of green, blue, yellow, orange and red. 
• Ankaramy Panther Chameleons are located near the southern most extend of the species in northwest Madagascar and they are often marketed by the name Pink Panther. Males display a vibrant pink coloration with light blue crests. 
• Diego Suarez or Antsiranana Panther Chameleons are located at the northern most tip of Madagascar. They typically have a V bar instead of a U bar. They are green with maroon-red colored bars. 
• Nosy Be Panther Chameleons are located on an island locality of the coast of northwest Madagascar and are known to show green, blue, yellow and red colors. They body is typically green with darker green bars. Some are known to be blue with blue barring. 
• Reunion Panther Chameleons are located far off the eastern coast of Madagascar and are very similar to Nosy Be Panther Chameleons with green and red coloration. 
• Sambava Panther Chameleons are located in northeast Madagascar. They display a U bar rather than a typical Y or V bar on their flans. Their coloration ranges from green, yellow, orange and red with dark pattern lines. 
• Tamatave Panther Chameleons are from the east coast of Madagascar. They have a green base that turns to red when in display when in display with white speckling.

Male Nosy Be Panther Chameleon by AZ pics n stuff

As you can see, Panther Chameleons come in many different colors and patterns. These patterns and colors are based on the locale from where they originate. Panther Chameleons are truly one of the more beautiful of all the Chameleons. They display some of the most vibrant colors of all creatures in the world.

Author Resource: Written by Chris Smith
Chris has been in the reptile trade for 10+ years and has experience with many different types of reptiles. He manages two reptile businesses and attends many reptile expos. Visit Chameleon Supplies to find everything you need to properly care for your Chameleon.

Introduction to Feeding Pet Snakes

Having a pet snake is a pretty big commitment - they can live up to 20 years. Before rushing out to the pet store, look into different breeds and research aspects of snake care such as skin shedding, and the temperature at which your snake will thrive.

Diet and hydration are, of course, crucial elements to caring for your scaly friend. Snakes need plenty of fresh water, so top up your pet's supply regularly. Don't be surprised if your snake doesn't eat up immediately. Many wait until nightfall to eat - most prefer to eat in the dark. So snakes may leave the prey for several hours before tackling it. Often, they drag their prey into their hide box before consumption.

Mouse Dinner for the Snake by Ferdi

In terms of diet, different breeds and sizes require different kinds and amounts of food. Smaller snakes will eat smaller prey. But all snakes are strictly carnivorous, and swallow their prey whole because they cannot tear or bite their food. However, their specially adapted jaws allow them to swallow prey larger than their head.

Creatures like lizards, small mammals, birds, fish, snails, insects and even other snakes can all be on the menu, with some variation between breeds. If the prey is capable of attack, for example if it is a rodent like a rat or a mouse, it will need to kill before eating. Defenseless creatures like earthworms frogs or insects will simply be swallowed whole.

One of the first and most important decisions is whether to give your snake pre-killed or live prey, and this debate continues to engage snake keepers. Really it comes down to personal preference, and there are pros and cons to both ways of feeding. If you go for the pre-killed option, be sure to have enough separate freezer space. Raising your own prey to kill, or having to go out to the pet store every time you need more food, can be expensive and time-consuming.

Frozen prey must be thoroughly thawed and warmed in advance. Defrost in the fridge or cool water, and heat slightly in warm water ahead of feeding. If you are feeding an already killed mouse, use tongs to dangle the animal in front of your snake. Use your fingers and your snake may think they're on the menu, too, and bite you. But if you don't want the hassle of defrosting and warming food, you may prefer to give your snake live prey. Just be aware that the snag with live prey like mice is that rodents will bite and scratch as long as they can, and can inflict serious injuries on a snake, especially if the reptile makes a mistake when trying to make the kill.

Whichever option you choose, go for food that's the size of the snake's girth at its largest. And whether you are going for the pre-killed or live option, get your snake used to this type of food as early on in its life as possible. You should find snakes fairly low maintenance when it comes to food. Just find out when and what and how much it needs to eat and stick to it.

Author Resource: Written by Daphne Reid
Find more Snake Care Articles at PetPeoplesPlace.com

The Red Iguana: Important Features

There are more than sixty types of iguanas and they have over seven hundred species. By and large, iguanas are found in America, Southern Canada, South America and a few islands of Fiji and Madagascar. The different varieties of iguana comprise those with curly tails, whip like tails, anoles and swifts. There are different types of iguana depending on their habitat: terrestrial, arboreal and semi-aquatic.

Red Iguana Munching Down by Amanda Lockwood

Because of their skill, they have easy adaptability to the environment they live in. For instance, the marine iguana can easily swim and green iguana can climb the high treetops. The others iguanas also develop the skills required to live in deserts and dry places. Iguana living in the forests and deserts are herbivores and eat leaves, vegetables, flowers and fruits. The other varieties eat juicy mealworms and wax worms. They are insectivore or omnivores.

The common type of iguana is muscular with its legs like frogs. They possess multi jointed delicate toes that make them climb easily. They have exceedingly sharp claws. The crest on the back of males is heavier than female iguanas. They have a wide mouth and sharp teeth, short nostrils and exterior ear drums. Iguanas have a third eye also at top of head, which watches the movements over the head.

Red Sided Skink iguanas also have a third eye. This variety of iguana is mostly found in rocky plains of Eastern and Southern Africa. These have lengths up to eight inches and they lay the eggs like other iguanas. They are also cold blooded and easily adjust to their environment.

These iguanas are insectivores and eat mealworm. They also like crickets coated with powder containing calcium and vitamins. They should be fed dark green leafy vegetables, fruits and clean water.

The Red iguanas belong to terrestrial category and spend time in search of food within a short distance from their domicile. They cannot travel long to find any other suitable dwelling place as they easily get disjointed.

The female red iguanas lay eggs in burrows dug by them in hot sunny areas. They cover their eggs and leave them unguarded. The eggs get hatched themselves because of warmth of steady temperature between 77 and 89 degrees Fahrenheit. All eggs get hatched simultaneously. Young iguanas come out of the tunnel themselves.

Iguana males are very invasive towards other males when they do courtship. But otherwise, they are calm and fearful and run away, if you go nearer to them. These species are gradually getting endangered. Those found abundantly in wild earlier are getting vanished. The major causes are cutting of forests. Consequently, they lose the place to live. Moreover, they fall a prey to animals and human beings also eat them in many islands.

However, it is possible to take some suitable steps to avoid their extinction. These measures may include enforcing anti-hunting laws, boosting up their captive generation in zoos, educating the people in the iguana inhabited areas to protect them.

Many Americans are keeping them as pets. This may also help these animals from getting imperiled.

Author Resource: Written by David Peterson
For more information on Iguanas go to Jinga's Pet Article World.

Article From Pet Article World

A Complete Guide to Bearded Dragon Nutrition

Because bearded dragons eat an extremely diverse range of insects, vegetables, fruit and flowers, they're not difficult to feed. However the important thing to remember is that they also need good nutrition. So it's not as simple as finding just any old leftovers in your kitchen. Whilst this is possible you need to be very aware of exactly what you're feeding your beardie and if that food provides the nutritional benefits he or she needs.

Bearded Dragon Getting Some Greens by fro_Ost

To start with let's talk about greens. There are a number of options to choose from here. They include collard greens, which are the most popular choice, dandelion greens and mustard greens. People make a terrible mistake when they feed their dragon lettuce. Whilst it's not exactly harmful or poisonous it doesn't contain any nutritional value whatsoever, making it a particularly bad choice when it comes to designing your beardies balanced diet. Some types of lettuce are more nutritionally deficient than others such as iceberg lettuce. But nonetheless all types of lettuce should be avoided. The other type of green to be mindful of is spinach. This is ok to feed to an adult in small amounts but should never be fed to a juvenile as it is high in oxalic acid.

You'll also want to make sure you provide a variety of vegetables. These can be fresh or frozen, either is very nutritious. There are many options to choose from such as beans, peas, pumpkin, zucchini and much more. So this should be easy to come by and may already be found in your fridge. Also feed your beardie flowers such as daisies, dandelions or hibiscus if possible and choose some fruits like berries, squash and apples as a treat.

Protein is also a very important part of a bearded dragon's diet. Generally this comes in the form of crickets, roaches or mealworms. Crickets are usually the insect of choice for many beardie owners. However roaches and mealworms are not uncommon. Crickets are also the healthiest option as mealworms tend to be very high in fat. As a guideline most people suggest that you feed your beardie as much as he or she will eat in 15 minutes. In most cases this method works and I'd suggest you give it a go. However just be aware of how much your dragon is eating and be careful to observe any weight gain. Some beardies have huge appetites whilst others don't, so you might need to begin regulating his or her protein intake. Another important point to mention is insect gut loading. This is for when you choose to breed your insects yourself. You want to feed them highly nutritious food for at least a couple of days before feeding them to your dragon. This is important because they pass on all the goodness when ingested.

Finally you should always dust your bearded dragons meal with a calcium supplement at least every second day. This provides them with the nutrients they need to keep them active and healthy. Some people provide calcium in other ways such as feeding foods which are high in calcium regularly or by using a calcium sand substrate. The calcium sand is not recommended though as it only provides the calcium when ingested and this is something you want to avoid. It is ok to feed foods high in calcium as this is a more natural way of doing it. However most choose to dust their food with calcium as they can monitor exactly how much calcium they are receiving.

Author Resource: Written by Lauren Powell
To learn more about bearded dragon nutrition bearded dragon nutrition, try Bearded Dragon Answers, a free site that provides information on how to care for and keep healthy bearded dragons.

Pet Lizards Basics

There are approximately 5,000 "known" species of lizards around the world and a lot of them have become popular in terms of becoming household pets. The range in size, shape, color and look is so wide that breeders and ordinary pet lovers find them very interesting and for some, they consider their pet lizards as their collection.

But there are a few things one must remember when owning or planning to own a pet lizard. Unlike cats or dogs, these animals are usually unfriendly. Most lizards don't like being handled and are aloof, if not apprehensive, towards humans. So proper care and precaution must be observed when owning and handling one.

That's One Way to Keep Warm by Lima Orosa

Lizards are complex animals. Just because you've had experience in owning or caring for other kinds or types of pets does not mean that owning a lizard would be relatively easy for you. These creatures have strict diets to follow. They have dietary and needs that you can't just simply guess and there are specific requirements for their tanks or housings.

If you are just a beginner in the field of owning a lizard, make sure to research all the important information first on how to care for pet lizards before you set off to buy one. There are various species of lizards that you could own, some look better than others while some look meaner or scarier than others.. Don't make the mistake of getting one simply because it looks cool or because it looks scary and you can use it to play pranks on your little sister.

Your very first consideration should be your ability to own and raise a complicated animal for a pet. If you think you can't handle owning one, then it would be best not to, but if you are insistent, then get those that are more manageable and will not give you too much trouble.

When you get your first lizard, make sure that you house it in a tank with enough space for your pet to move around and grow. Some breeders will opt getting two tanks for their pets. A small tank while the lizard is still a hatchling and another one when the pet lizard has become an adult. There is nothing wrong with this but it's a waste of money. Instead of getting two housings, just get one that will be enough to house an adult lizard. This way, you don't have to transfer your pet from one housing to another.

In terms of diet and nutrition, the needs depend on every species. There are lizards that feed exclusively on insects, there are lizards that are vegetarians, there are lizards that eat small mammals, birds, fish and insects, while there are lizards that eat everything that will fit in its mouth. Before you get your pet lizard, make sure that you know what their diet is so that you could prepare your daily budget for their dietary needs.

These reptiles, just like every other animal in the planet, do get sick as well. Unlike other animals though, lizards won't show you their sick until it's too late. They either don't feel that they are sick or they are so good at pretending to be healthy. So be cautious of your pet lizards health and lifestyle in order to avoid severe illnesses that could cause its death.

These are just a few reminders and information that you might want to know about lizards. If you want to know more about Pet Lizards, the type that are popular and manageable to own for beginners, and how to properly care for and feed pet lizards, visit: Pet Lizards for more readings.

Author Resource
This article is written by Rio Regio, a budding writer that is harnessing his skills by composing articles on various unrelated materials with varying difficulty, popularity and theme. The article you have read is just a sample of Rio's skills as a writer. If you want to read more of his works, click Pet Lizards

Tips For Buying A Pet Snake

Buying a snake can be a sizable investment. Getting a snake requires making a commitment to the pet's care and well-being. It is important to do your research so you know that the particular species or breed is something you will enjoy owning in the years to come. Find out how difficult they are to feed and house before you buy. Also find out about the snake's temperament.

Remember that some snakes get extremely large, can be dangerous, and live a long time. Lifespans of over twenty years are not uncommon. Don't assume getting rid of that unwanted reptile will be a piece of cake either.

Pet Snake by CatrinaZ

Another thing to check out before buying is the laws of your particular city. In many places, snakes of certain varieties are restricted as pets.

That being said, it's a good idea to get the enclosure, or vivarium, ready for the snake to move in before buying one. Different species have different requirements in heat, humidity, and size of enclosure, so again, do your homework.

Before buying, look your snake over for indicators of poor health. It's a good idea to hang around the pet store or breeders' for a while, just watching the snakes for clues to individual snakes' personalities. The eyes should be bright and shiny. If they appear dull, it's a sign that the snake is about to shed its skin. Wait until it has shed so you can get a better idea of how it looks.

It is important to get a snake that has been hatched or birthed by a reputable breeder. Make sure the snake is accustomed to eating pre-killed food before you buy it.

The best place to go to find a reputable breeder is your local herpetological society. Most areas have herp clubs for people who are into reptiles. If you're lucky, you might get to attend a herp show in your area. Breeders attend these gatherings and show off their stock. Search online for information about herp shows you could attend. (Herpetology is the branch of biology that studies reptiles and amphibians. "Herp" is a common nickname for these animals.)

When studying the choices of pet snake species, get to know the Latin names. Common names vary with pet stores and with regions. By knowing exactly what species of snake you want, you can save yourself a lot of trouble. Different species of similar snakes, such as boas or pythons, have different temperaments and grow to different sizes. Just knowing it is a boa or a python is not specific enough to know for sure what you are getting.

Finally, there are some people who just should not own pet snakes. These include homes with children under five and anyone with a compromised immune system, because there is a small possibility of a snake carrying salmonella. The large pythons and constrictors can be a danger to young children, too. (And to everyone else, too! Be extremely careful, and know what you're getting into.)

Educate yourself before you start shopping for that cool looking snake. If it’s your first snake, consider getting a And prepare to be in it for the long haul.

About the Author: Gary Ruplinger is the owner of Boatips.com, a site providing information about pet snakes. To learn more about buying a pet snake and my favorite, emerald tree boas, visit us.

Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=43292&ca=Pets

The Causes of a Box Turtle Eye Infection

Box turtles are great pets with real character but they are not the easiest turtles to care for in comparison to other turtles who are much easier to look after. Although I must say all turtles need a certain level of maintenance. When taking on the responsibility of caring for a turtle you will inevitably come up against some health issues, one of them might be a box turtle eye infection.

Eastern Box Turtle by Ed from Ohio

If your turtle is showing signs of an eye infection, it's a good idea to look for other symptoms such as wheezing or gasping, a runny nose and breathing through their mouths. If a number of these symptoms have been spotted, then the signs are pointing at your turtle having a respiratory infection and you will need to take it to see a vet as soon as possible.

A box turtle with swollen eyes may be a case of your turtle being allergic to the substrate in their enclosure. Some turtles are allergic to earthly substrates and will have swelling around the eyes as a result of their allergy towards this sort of bedding. If you're using earth or soil based bedding, then try replacing the bedding with another and monitoring your turtle for a week or so to see if the swelling goes down. If the swelling still persists then you will know that your turtle does not have allergy problems and it could be because they are lacking vitamin A in their diet.

Swelling eyes can be caused by a lack of vitamin A and by simply giving your box turtle more foods rich in vitamin A the swelling can go down considerably. Carrots, parsley, kale and collard greens all have a decent amount of vitamin A and can be added to your turtle's diet to ensure your box turtle receives enough.

If nothing changes and the problems your box turtle is having remains, then it's time to see a vet. A vitamin injection might be necessary to help restore your turtle's health and fix their turtle eye infection altogether.

Author Resource: Written by David Anders
Box turtles are not the easiest turtles to look after but looking after them well has many advantages. For more useful tips and advice on box turtle care don't hesitate to visit http://www.boxturtlecare.net/

Article From Pet Article World

Pet Snake Care

Before you make that trip to the pet store, ask yourself "Why do I want a snake?" Is it because you're trying to impress your friends? Is it because you saw a killer anaconda in a popular film, and you'd like something along those lines to show people when they come over? Do you want to shock or scare your parents and other relatives during holiday gatherings? Thanks to a nearly age-old role in mythology, folklore, religion, and, more recently, horror films and music videos, snakes are in high demand as pets. Unfortunately, many people want a snake for all the wrong reasons and fail to properly educate themselves about pet snake care before giving in to the impulse to accept a snake from a friend or buy one at the store. A snake is not a fashion accessory, party trick, or practical joke. Snakes are highly sensitive and, for the most part, wild creatures who should only be kept as pets for the sheer pleasure keeping and observing a snake can bring. If you fit the profile of a true snake fancier, then you've no doubt studied up a bit already. If you're still deciding whether or not a snake is the pet for you, learn more with the following information.

Female Red Milk Snake by Jonathan Crowe

Snakes, like all pets, have their own unique set of requirements when it comes to temperature, housing, and dietary needs. The size of your snake's enclosure depends, of course, on the size of the snake you plan on owning. A good way to judge the amount of space your snake will need is to allow ½ square foot of floor space for every foot of snake, provided the snake is under 6 feet long. For snakes over 6 feet in length, ¾ a square foot of floor space is adequate. Snakes need to feel secure in their new home, as they will spend a lot of time basking or hiding. A good solution is to get an adequately sized aquarium and secure the top with a pegboard to allow for proper ventilation. Mesh should not be used as a curious snake can rub his nose rose on such material. The furnishings in a snake cage can be relatively simple. Line the cage bottom with aspen shavings, reptile carpet (or Astro turf), or pea gravel. Add a hiding place such as a pre-made "cave," or a cave you make yourself out of various sized rocks to your pet snake care list along with a small potted plant, whether fake or real, and a shallow dish of water for soaking.

As snakes are cold blooded, their body temperatures depend directly upon the temperature in their environment. Snakes have no self-cooling or heating systems. They simply move into and out of the heat. It's imperative, then, that you maintain a daytime temperature of between 80 and 85 degrees and a nighttime temperature between 65 and 75 degrees in your snake's tank. An adhesive thermometer and a heat lamp or cage heater that goes beneath the cage will help you accomplish these things. A snake that is even a few degrees below its optimal body temperature will often stop eating.

Speaking of eating, you should probably reconsider owning a snake unless you're 100% sure that you can handle feeding live or dead mammals to your pet. Smaller snakes will eat baby mice (called "pinkies") and medium to large snakes will eat either pinkies or adult mice. Larger snakes may require larger meals in the form of baby chicks or baby rabbits. Figuring out what your snake wants out of his meal may take some doing. Some snakes are terrified of live food and will only eat a mouse after its neck has been humanely broken (this kills the mouse instantly). Some snakes enjoy hunting and will not eat food that has already been killed, and some snakes don't care either way. While most snakes can live for weeks without food, it's best to feed an adult snake once a week or every ten days. Baby snakes should be fed more often to support their growing bodies. Check with a specific care guide for your snake to figure out how much food to offer your pet per feeding.

Once you've ascertained that your motivations for snake ownership are driven only by your love for these creatures, use your newfound patience to spend time searching for a variety of snake that fits your budget and your personality. Only buy a snake from a reputable source, and make sure you've either got an excellent book on pet snake care handy or an expert snake keeping acquaintance who can address any questions you may have and help you on the road to blissful snake ownership.

About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline provides advice and information on all aspects of pet care for all types of pets including dogs, cats, ferrets and others and makes it easier for pet owners to choose the best solution for their companion's care.
For answers to all your pet care questions, please visit: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Barry_Mcgee
http://EzineArticles.com/?Pet-Snake-Care&id=925144

Common Illnesses of Your Chameleon

Like all pets and like all living things, chameleons are prone to illnesses and infections. Their health is very important and cannot be ignored. A chameleon may die if its health and well-being is not properly attended to. A malnourished or stressed chameleon is most likely to die early.

Visible signs of an unhealthy chameleon include sunken eyes and body injuries. If you can see worms under their skin, it is another sign that it is not properly cared for. It is very important for you to know and understand just what a chameleon needs to avoid your chameleon getting any illness or disease.

Chameleon by Susheela Willis

Dehydration is one of the common problems of chameleons. If you see that your chameleon has sunken eyes, you can assume that it is dehydrated. To be extra sure of it, you can try to pull its skin lightly between two fingers and see if it goes back into place. If it doesn't, then your chameleon is most likely dehydrated.

Obviously you need to give your chameleon plenty of water when it is dehydrated. The best way is to shower your chameleon for about an hour. Make sure there is a plant with it. Run water with room temperature on the plant. This will encourage the chameleon to lick the water from the plant and help against dehydration. You should also spray its cage before putting the chameleon back. You can also make a drip system and put it in the cage. You can make a drip system by simply making a small hole on the bottom of a container and filling it with water.

A chameleon is also prone to respiratory infections. It can be due to a parasite, or because of heavy exposure to the cold. Stress can also give the chameleon respiratory infections. You can determine if your chameleon suffers from this by holding the chameleon close to your ear and listening to it. If you hear it making cracking noises, then there's a big chance that it is suffering from respiratory infections. You can also see if it opens its mouth to breathe repeatedly and if there is sticky saliva in its mouth. These are also symptoms of respiratory infections. To treat this infections, it is important that you take your chameleon to a veterinarian.

Internal parasitic infections are common in chameleons that are caught from the wild. You should assume that a wild caught chameleon may have this, and it is recommended that you have it checked with a veterinarian to be sure. A chameleon will require extensive parasite treatment for this.

Nutritional diseases may also come to your chameleon, especially metabolic bone disease. Check to see if your chameleon has swollen joints and swollen limbs. Observe if it has trouble walking or climbing, or if it doesn't walk or climb at all. It may have metabolic bone disease. Another nutritional disease observed in chameleons is edema, which is pronounced by swellings in the neck and the throat.

Looking out for and caring for your chameleon is just like caring for any other pet. It is recommended that you give your chameleon the proper attention needed for it to have a stress-free and healthy life. You can always avail the services of a veterinarian if you feel that there's something wrong with your chameleon. Just remember not to ignore even the smallest sign, for for a small sign like dry skin or sunken eyes can mean that your chameleon already has an illness.

About the Author
Written by Mary Ann Porsuelo
The author of this article is a webmaster and is currently working on http://www.ChameleonTips.com . Feel free to contact her at keywriterm@gmail.com for any inquiries or concerns.

Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=303224&ca=Pets

What Do Turtles Eat - Pet Turtles Food

Feeding turtles can prove very expensive as they are exotic animals. You cannot feed your pet just anything; they require a healthy and balanced diet which could include insects or any kind of vegetables.

Like all reptiles, turtles are also cold blooded. A large number of turtles are found in the water. They are categorized into three types according to the type of turtle food they eat: Herbivores; which eat plants or any type of vegetation, Omnivores; which eat plants as well as flesh and Carnivores; which eat mostly meat.

Turtle Eating in the Sun by antaresjhw

Before feeding a turtle, you should know for sure which species it belongs to. The original habitat of each species varies and so do the other factors of its care. The best way to make sure of your turtle’s health is to feed it according to its natural diet. When the turtles are in their natural habitat, they eat a variety of foods depending on the season, hence feeding it a variety of foods is the best option.

There are a few foods that are restricted for the turtle:

• No reptiles utilize milk at any stage in their lives and neither do they have the adequate enzymes to break down the lactose. That is why dairy products like cheese, yogurt, etc. should not be given as turtle food.
• Preservatives and salt are not a part of the turtle’s natural diet. The effects of such things are not yet known, it would be sensible not to use canned or other processed foods for feeding it.
• Do not give it candy, chocolates, bread or any other refined sugar and flour products.
• In the wild, some turtles eat poisonous plants but these behaviors are not well studied. It is better not to give your pet any toxic plant found from their habitat such as poison ivy, rhubarb plant, avocado plant, etc.

Feeding only cantaloupe or crickets as turtle food does not create problems, but it can be insufficient for your pet. Occasionally feed your turtle cabbage, lettuce or even cooked beef. Though a turtle needs a calcium rich diet, you can give it foods that are low on calcium or high in phosphorus, if a separate source of calcium, such as cuttle-bones, eggshells, oyster shells, etc. is available.

Here are some foods that you can use as turtle food for a carnivorous turtle:

• Green: Green leafy parts of vegetables like aquatic plants, watercress, turnip greens, green leaf lettuce, carrot tops, fig leaves, grape leaves, etc. can be given.
• Vegetables: Squash, peas, okra, sliced carrots, sweet potato, corn and wax beans can be fed to your turtle.
• Fruits: You can always give it fruits like fig, grapes, cantaloupe, tomato, banana, apple, mango, citrus fruits, kiwi, etc. occasionally.
• Others: Other than plants, you can feed your turtle with various animal matter as well. Silkworms, crickets, snails, shrimps, slugs, dead mice, cooked chicken, boiled eggs, cooked fish, cat/dog food, etc are part of the natural habitat of a carnivorous turtle. Fatty red meat or any raw meat should be avoided as it might be dangerous for the turtle.
• Turtle food: Apart from the natural foods, you can also feed the prepared food for turtles.

About the Author: Clint W is a genius who writes interesting and thought provoking content on a variety of niches like pet care tips. To get a word of knowledge on how to take care of different kinds of pets see Pet Care.

Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=551919&ca=Pets

Raising a Reptile As A Pet

You may have admired the unusual looking lizards at your local wildlife center, or perhaps a neighbor may have an iguana in their back room. If you have not raised a reptile before, let me suggest that you start with a leopard gecko. The leopard gecko has two very big advantages, and one of them is that it does not get very big. The other major advantage of a leopard gecko is that is has been kept and bred in captivity since the 1920s, and is among the healthiest lizards and easiest to keep.

Lucky the Leopard Gecko by Casey Myers

A juvenile gecko is quite active, but as they mature they become rather quiet and tame, and can be held and will take food from your fingers. The adult gecko does not get larger than nine or ten inches, and can be handled by older children. Even younger children can hold them, but make sure they are supervised to handle the gecko gently and to avoid picking them up by the tail, or holding the tail tightly. As with other lizards in the reptile family, their tails can break off. Actually, this might be an interesting occurrence for children, as the tail will be regrown, though it never looks exactly the same as the original tail.

Leopard geckos are easily kept in an aquarium or other plastic cage, as long as each gecko has at least ten inches square of floor space. The cage should be a minimum of twelve inches high. Have a shallow bowl for water that doesn't spill as the lizards crawl into or over it. The food bowl for the gecko can be something about the size and shape of the lid for a gallon jar, a larger flat area. You will be using crickets or other insects as food, and it is better if the food remains in the food bowl. The bottom of the cage should have some kind of paper toweling so that it can be changed in order to keep the cage clean.

One really important point about raising reptiles is to keep the area sufficiently warm. Geckos thrive best when the daytime temperature is in the eighties, up to eighty-eight degrees. Nighttime temperatures can get to the middle sixties without causing any health problems. If your house is normally cooler than that, a lamp with a forty-watt bulb over the top of the cage should create enough heat to keep the gecko warm. There are also hot rocks that you can buy and put in the cage. Keep the cage out of direct sunlight (because it will get too warm) and have a screen cover for the top if you have small children or cats in your household.

Once you have the environment, go to a reputable pet store and select your geckos. Leopard geckos come in a variety of colors, and you can keep several in the same cage as long as there is only one male in the group (most geckos that are sold are female). They eat mealworms and crickets, and correct care and feeding should be discussed at length with the seller. A well taken care of gecko can live as long as twenty years.

Raising a reptile can be a fascinating hobby whether you are eight or fifty-eighty years old. Leopard geckos are among the easiest to raise, are easily tamed, and are always beautiful and interesting pets. Consider a gecko for your next pet.

Author Resource:
Tristan Andrews is a freelance author who writes about pet supplies and reptile cage supplies.

Vitamins You Should Ensure Your Turtles Have As Pets

If you have any turtles as pets you will understand that one of the major parts of caring for them is trying to ensure that they remain healthy. One of the best ways to do this is to provide them the right nutrition through the food you feed them.

All turtles are different and you will need to feed your turtle a specific diet depending on what species of turtle he/she is. Some turtles enjoy specific foods more than others but generally there are vitamins and minerals that all turtles need in their diet and these are vitamin D3,vitamin A and calcium. So why are they important and how can I introduce them into my turtle's diet?

Box Turtle by Ed from Ohio

Vitamin D3 partners well with calcium and is an aid which helps the absorption of calcium into your turtle's body. Naturally in their habitats in the wild, turtles generate vitamin D3 through exposure to sunlight while going about their daily adventures. Most people who have turtles as pets keep them indoors so a good way to ensure your turtle receives this vital vitamin is to have a UVB lamp providing ultraviolet light into a section of their tank for at least 8-10 hrs a day. Ideally it is a lot easier and cheaper to allow your turtle 30 - 40 minutes of sunbathing where you would take the turtle outside into your yard and it can have exposure to natural sunlight two to three times a week. Just having your turtle out for just those few minutes will be enough to help them to produce a sufficient amount of vitamin D3 in comparison to the 8-10 hours of artificial light needed.

One thing to keep in mind is that turtles are not used to extremely cold temperatures so if the weather is not particularly warm in your area it's always better to stick with UVB lighting.

Calcium is extremely important for good turtle shell development and healthy bones in turtles. If there is a lack of calcium in a turtle's diet it can cause severe problems to both land and aquatic turtles alike. The shells of aquatic turtles will become soft and rubbery and it's very possible that a young calcium deficient turtle will develop malformed limbs. Land turtles on the other hand can suffer from pyramiding which is a condition that causes the shell of a tortoise to become lumpy and form pyramid-like deformations. The cause of pyramiding is through too much protein and not enough calcium in a tortoise's diet. Too much protein causes the turtle to grow at a much quicker rate than usual and this combined with a lack of calcium means the shell cannot expand quickly to keep up.

The best ways to provide calcium into your turtle's diet is to provide them with calcium supplements which can come in a few different forms. Calcium supplements for turtles usually come as powder but you can also use cuttlebones which is also used for birds and are a great way to induce calcium into your turtle's diet to ensure they have good bone and shell health.

Make sure you buy the phosphorus-free calcium powder to allow your turtle to take in only calcium which will ensure your turtle does not unbalance their calcium to phosphorus ratio.

Vitamin A is important for your turtle's skin, eyes and mucous membranes. A lack of vitamin A in a turtle's diet can result in swollen eyes, a runny nose and a loss of appetite. These symptoms all point at a condition known as hypovitaminosis A in turtles. A good way to provide your turtle with vitamin A is to feed them foods that are rich in this vitamin and this will be a good way for them to receive the sufficient amount needed.
These foods are:

• Dark leafy greens such as collard greens, mustard greens, Kale and parsley.
• yellow, orange flesh coloured vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes.
• Cod liver oil: Just drizzle a bit over their food before you give it to your turtle.

Author Resource: Written by David Anders
As a final tip for feeding turtles and providing a healthy diet for your turtle remember to not concentrate too much on providing just one particular vitamin or mineral, instead try to provide a balanced diet consisting of all these essential vitamins and a few treats here and there to keep your little buddy happy. For more information on supplements and feeding tips for your pet turtle check out http://www.squidoo.com/feedingturtles

Article From Pet Article World

Red Eared Slider Turtles -Tips on Care and Diet

Taking care of Red Eared Turtles takes more than just a container decorated with colorful pebbles and filled with water. These animals have specific housing needs, and require special diets and close monitoring; all this in order to ensure their health and safety, and allow them to live out their maximum lifespans. The following tips about the Red Eared Turtle should help you come to a decision as to whether you are ready to become an owner, or, if you are already one, give you useful advice on how to take better care of your pets.

Red Eared Slider Turtle by Alan Vernon

If you are just in the planning stages of purchasing a red eared turtle, there are a few things you should look out for to make sure that your pet is in perfect condition and not ill before you bring it home. Healthy turtles of this species should be alert, responsive, and bright in appearance. You will know if the turtle is alert and responsive if it pulls its legs back into its shell when you pick it up. Otherwise, Red Eared Slider Turtles that seem to be passive when you do this are most likely to be stressed out or sluggish. They are in great shape and health if they have clear, open, and clean eyes. Their noses should be free from discharge or mucus, which are signs of respiratory sickness.

Red Eared Slider Turtles may appear delicate and cute when they are just hatchlings, and many novice owners may assume that small, plastic containers or tanks would make adequate housing for them. This theory is a mistake; as the turtles grow into their adult size, they will reach up to twelve inches in length. You must, therefore, prepare a suitably sized dwelling place, ideally a large tank or pond. A red eared turtle that has received the right kind of care and monitoring can live for forty years.

One should always remember that it is never wise to try to return a turtle to the wild when it becomes an adult, because it will not be equipped with the skills necessary for self-preservation and survival, especially if it had been kept captive most of its life.

A red eared turtle can excrete a lot of waste material, and you must keep its housing clean, by placing a good filter into its tank, and by feeding it in a separate tank or container.

Red eared slider turtles are omnivorous, although as young turtles, they show a preference for small animals, such as earthworms, shrimp, mealworms, crickets, and krill. These may have to be cut into smaller portions when fed to the hatchlings. If your pet is already an adult, you may offer it larger prey, such as tadpoles. As the turtles mature, you should shift to vegetables for the majority of their diet; for example, collard, dandelion greens, and green beans.

You can determine the sex of your turtles only when they have become mature. You should allot a nesting area on which the females can lay their eggs. Be sure that this area, and the entire place in which the turtles dwell, are escape-proof and free from predators.

These facts about Red Eared Slider Turtles should serve as sound and helpful advice on how to take care of your turtle pets.

About the Author:
Karma Williams is a pet turtle care enthusiast. Discover more about turtles by visiting the Red Eared Slider turtles page of her website. Get your free 10 part Pet Turtle Care mini-course, valued at $49, by visiting her wwwPetTurtleCenter.com website and requesting it.

Article Source: http://www.sooperarticles.com/pets-articles/reptile-amphibian-articles/red-eared-slider-turtles-tips-care-diet-65763.html

The Amazing Leopard Gecko

Attractive to lizard devotees for their ease in care, leopard geckos already have come to be one of the most well-liked lizards on the planet. Beginner owners will quickly fall in love with just how easy they are to care for, and will soon become expert keepers who have found joy and excitement with these amazing pet animals.

One factor that makes the leopard gecko so popular with individuals interested in the world of lizards may be the considerable amount of exclusive and vibrant hues available to the consumer. Through decades of procreation, fantastic and exotic shades and patterns have been developed, creating a wonderful assortment of leopard gecko morphs throughout the years.

Leopard Gecko by Amy Loves Yah

Some of the more famous leopard gecko morphs include tangerine, carrot-tail, tremper albino, bell albino, las vegas (rainwater) albino, stripe, reverse stripe, red stripe, jungle, giant, APTOR, RAPTOR, mack snow, line bred snow, patternless, enigma, eclipse, and blizzards just to name a few.

Breeders have carefully bred these morphs together developing several variations. These wonderful animals all have such exclusive looks and markings it really is easy to understand why the leopard gecko is considered one of the most majestic types of lizard in captivity.

This breed of lizard originally started in the Middle East - Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan area. Adult geckos can develop to become lengths of 8 to 12 inches long and weigh 60 to over 100 grams in captivity. The baby leopards are around three inches and average 3 grams in weight. These lizards are a terrestrial animal which signifies they prefer to live from the ground.

They are also nocturnal creatures, meaning that they're most active at night. With proper care from their owners they can easily survive up to 20 or more years. In order for you to keep them happy and healthy, leopard gecko owners have to provide their lizards with a number of important things.

These geckos shed their skin regularly. Because of this they require a humid environment that assists in them becoming able to properly shed their skin. Owners can help their lizards by providing a humid hide box. A humid hide box is fundamentally a hide box with damp sphagnum moss. This aids the leopard gecko within in the shedding process.

The leopard also requires a healthful diet plan. They store the additional weight inside their tails. This gives them a source of nutrition whenever there is a shortage. A leopard gecko which has a fat tail is really a healthy gecko.

They should also be supplied with a light and a heat source. It is essential to offer a hot and cold temperature gradient for the animal. A temperature gradient is basically having a warm end along with a cooler end of the enclosure, which will permit your pet to regulate its personal internal system and warmth.

Much like many other reptiles these geckos are prospective carriers of infectious diseases like salmonella. Owners must continually wash both hands before and following dealing with their leopard gecko and/or the environment and the material in it, to aid in the prevention of potentially passing on one of these illnesses.
As time goes on leopard geckos are gaining in popularity and will continue to be a singular example of probably the most favorite kept reptiles in the home. As their recognition grows, breeders will continue to breed more exclusive and fascinating morphs.

About the Author
Felix Silva is a leopard gecko enthusiast. He spends much of his time teaching others on how to properly care for their leopard geckos. If you would like to get some more leopard gecko information, please visit our site at http://www.leopardgeckoplanet.com and sign up for our free mini-course.

Have You Heard Of People Who Have Pet Turtles?

You’ve heard of people who have pet dogs, pet cats and people who also have pet birds. If you go out on a limb you might even find that you’ve either heard of, or know of, people who have pet spiders, iguanas, and pet snakes. But have you heard of people who have pet turtles?

You might have, and be wondering what’s so strange in that, after all your college roommate had a pet cockroach. Then there was that guy who had a pet frog. Really none of these are strange in and of themselves because different people are drawn to different things, but I still found it strange when I heard that some people had pet turtles.

I was intrigued and went down to my pet store to find out what about these little creatures was so fascinating. Absolutely nothing. The one that I saw did absolutely nothing for the half hour that I spent staring at it. A pet store clerk wandering over to me asked me if there was anything that I needed. I smiled and shook my head. I certainly didn’t want one of those!

The clerk sidled closer and asked again if I didn’t need anything. Probably he was wondering what I had been doing for half an hour in the pet store staring at a turtle if I didn’t want anything. The light finally dawned on me and I lifted my head from my intense contemplation of the pet turtles in their display cabinets and gave the clerk a sheepish smile.

Telling him the reason that had led me here in the first place, I waited for him to give a look of superiority which would firmly put me in my place, but I was to be pleasantly surprised. The clerk gave me a grin and told me quite frankly that at first he hadn’t been able to understand either why people took for their pet turtles.

Then he took me over to a side case that wasn’t as visible to the whole room and indicated that I should bend down, which I obligingly did. Imagine my astonishment when I was confronted by a large confined area in which there was a big turtle. This chap, as the clerk told me, had been abandoned after its owner had passed away a short while ago. The family had brought it over here because they knew the owner and knew that he could be trusted to look after it.

This then was why people bought pet turtles. The sheer majesty of the creature awed me, and I was struck speechless. This fellow had been around for a lot longer than even I had been. I now understood the compelling pull that made people to get pet turtles. There was nothing in a dog or cat, to beat the turtle.

About the Author
Written by Pertic Brendon
Author's Sites Homemade Cat Foods, Homemade Dog Foods, Essential Oils Recipes & Remedies
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=186067&ca=Pets