How to Handle Horse Injuries

Five element horse temperament typing can help you if your horse gets a painful injury because different types will respond differently and you need to be able to anticipate these reactions. It is important to consider your horse's temperament when you examine and treat the injury to avoid further damage to your horse and yourself. In my vet career I have seen so many cases where a horse was slightly injured but became seriously injured by poor handling. Here are some things to consider for each Five Element horse temperament.

Horse Having Its Wounds Treated by Kate Sumbler

Fire - These horse temperaments have very low pain thresholds and will be very sensitive around even mild wounds. Fire horses are generally polite and will not try to hurt you as you examine and treat there wound but you will want to go slowly and assure them you will not hurt them more. Don't hesitate to reach for mild sedation to clean and treat injuries in the Fire horse temperament if what you need to do is going to be painful. Over restraining this horse temperament in stocks or tight spaces can cause them to panic and further injure themselves. A twitch may work for a very quick procedure if sedation is not an option but don't expect it to help with extended painful treatments.

Earth - Earth horse temperaments can handle pain quite well and they tend to be very cooperative in being treated. Minor injuries can usually be treated with no sedation and minimal restraint. These horse will rarely try to hurt anyone if they are handled with calm purpose to get the wound managed. Earth horse temperament individuals have a tendency to get excessive swelling in the injured tissues so wrap the injury when possible. Hand walking as soon is possible is good to keep these horses moving to improve circulation because left to their own devices they will tend to stand around and not exercise.

Metal - Metal horse temperaments tolerate the best of all horse temperaments because they have very high pain thresholds. If they are used to being handled they need little or no sedation or restraint for even moderate injuries. Metal horse temperaments do, however, tend to develop excessive scar tissue so it is important to stabilize lower leg wounds with heavy bandages or casts. Extra vit E and selenium horse supplements can be good to help with healing. After the injury appears healed be sure there is not scar tissue restricting the surrounding tissues.

Water - This horse temperament does not handle pain well and they panic even with the anticipation of pain. Don't even think about trying a twitch on this type horse because you will simply bring up their fear level. Go for moderate sedation and if this is not possible try a blindfold and other non painful distraction. Stocks are not recommended and if the horse must be restrained without sedation a scotch hobble with a quick release knot can be tried along with a blindfold and lots of calm stroking and voice reassurance. Aconite is a homeopathic remedy that can be used if the horse is more afraid than badly injured.

Wood - Wood horse temperaments are generally not overly concerned with the pain from an injury but they will because of their nature often resist treatment aggressively. If you have a stock, put the Wood horse temperament in it for your protection. Use moderate to strong sedation if any painful or prolonged procedure is required. The endorphins released from correct application of a twitch can help mellow out an injured Wood horse and make them less combative. A twitch applied improperly will just bring on or escalate a fight. If possible, do not bandage a lower leg injury in the Wood horse so you do not have to face multiple fights to get it changed.

Taking an extra minute to consider the horse temperament you are dealing with and you can make the treatment of injuries safer for the horse and handler.


Author Resource: Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horsekeeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit http://www.BuyHolisticHorse.com and her blog.

The Antediluvian Andalusian - An Ancient and Aspiring Horse

The Andalusian horse is one of the oldest pure horse breeds in the world. It has been highly regarded since the Middle Ages and reigned for several centuries as the embodiment of perfection, but Spanish horses have always been esteemed for their quality and appearance since Roman times.

Andalusian Workout by David De Biasí

The Andalusian has officially been known as the Purebred Spanish Horse, and has been represented by Iberian Saddle Horse, Iberian War Horse, Jennet, Ginete, Lusitano, Alter Real, Carthusian, Spanish Horse, Portuguese, Peninsular, Castilian, Extremeno, Villanos, Zapata, and Zamaranos. It is also known as the Lusitano Horse, which is the modern breed of Andalusian in Portugal. And since black is a rare color in the Andalusian breed, there is also a black Spanish Andalusian or Pura Raza Espanola (PRE) horse of Spain.

The Andalusian Horse originated in the province of Andalusia on the Iberian Peninsula, in Spain, where 2500 year old cave paintings portray the breed. Its ancestors are the Iberian horses of Spain and Portugal, which in turn were influenced by Celtic, Carthaginian, Germanic, and Roman horses; and the Barb horse which was brought to Spain by the invading Moors in the Seventh Century. These oriental horses were crossed with quality native Spanish stock, and the result was the Andalusian.

The Andalusian has been a major part of the development of many other horse breeds, including being the foundation breed for the Lipizzaner horses used in Vienna's Spanish Riding School in the 1500's. The breed has also been part of the development of the Irish Connemara, most German warmblood breeds, the Cleveland Bay of England, and the Peruvian Paso of the new world. The Azteca is an Andalusian/Quarter Horse cross while the Iberian Warmblood is an Andalusian/Thoroughbred cross. The Spanish Norman is an Andalusian/Percheron cross and the Hispano Arab is an Andalusian/Arab cross.

The Andalusian is mentioned in various historical texts dating as far back as Homer's Iliad, written in 1100 BC. Xenophon, a Greek cavalry officer who lived in or near 450 BC, also praised the "gifted Iberian horses" for their role in the Spartan's defeat of Athens. In the Second Punic War (218-201 BC), the Romans were defeated by the Iberian cavalry, and more than 1,200 years later William the Conqueror rode an Iberian horse into the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The Spanish explorer, Hernando Cortes, brought Andalusians to America for his conquests.

As the middle ages progressed, heavier breeds of horses that were capable of carrying fully armored knights began to gain favor over the Adalusian as war mounts. When firearms were invented, a more agile horse became desirable, and the Andalusion was again back in favor. This new type of warfare ushered in a new era for the breed, when it became known as the "royal horse of Europe." During this period, Andalusian horses were present at nearly every European court as the favored mount for the nobles and played an integral role in the new riding academies that were forming throughout Europe, where the art of dressage. The Andalusian is still used in bull fighting in Southern Spain.

Spanish Bull Fight by Manuel González Olaechea y Franco

Andalusian horses owe a great deal to the Carthusian Monks who bred them, beginning in the late Middle Ages. In the late 1400's, studs and bloodlines were founded at monasteries in Terez, Seville, and Cazallo. The monks were excellent breeders and trainers, and kept their horses pure. However, that purity was threatened in the 1800's when Napoleon invaded Spain and his army stole many horses. This caused the Andalusian breed to decline in numbers and it came close to extinction.

Fortunately, one herd of Andalusians was hidden and was used to renew the breed. In 1832, an epidemic devastated Spain's horse population and only a small herd of Andalusians at the Monastery of Cartuja survived. In order to re-establish their breeding programs, exportation of an Andalusian became illegal without Royal consent and the penalty for exporting this treasured horse was death. No Andalusians were exported until 1962.

However, now the Andalusian's numbers are growing around the world. In 2005 there were approximately 400 Andalusians registered in Canada. In the United States, it is still a unique breed, but the population has risen to around 5400 horses. The total number of Andalusian (Lusitano) horses registered with IALHA in 2008 is approximately. 11,000.

In physical appearance, the Andalusian is a compact horse with a distinguished appearance and excellent proportions which balance well with their graceful, yet substantial bodies. The Andalusian has a natural balance, collection, impulsion, and agility. They are between 15.1 to 16.1 hands high with the average being 15.2 hands.

The Andalusian is known for its abundantly thick mane that flows from a long, elegant, well-arched but substantial neck, with stallions having more of a crest than mares. The classic profile is a long head with broad forehead, small ears, large eyes, and a flat or slightly convex nose. The shoulders are well-sloped and the withers are well defined. The massive chest and powerful hindquarters are lean and the long, thick, flowing tail should be low set. The breed has strong, medium legs with very energetic high knee action and short striding.

Approximately 80% of the Andalusians are Gray, (Torca, Ruca), 15% Bay (Castana, Castanha), and 5% black. The following colors are also acceptable but rarely seen: Black Bay, Brown, Chestnut, Buckskin, Dun, Palomino, Cremello (Isabella), Perlino, Roan. Other colors are rare or believed to be non-existent in the purebred Andalusian but may be accepted with proper documentation including parentage verification and photos. All dark spots within white markings or on pink skin must be recorded on the registration application for and the color of all hooves must be noted especially if they are striped.

Pura Raza Espanola by Yeguada San Joaquin

Andalusian Horses possess a proud but docile, calm temperament. The breed is renowned for its ability to learn quickly and easily when treated with respect. They are sensitive, intelligent, and particularly responsive and cooperative with a very willing nature.

The International Andalusian & Lusitano Horse Association is the association that maintains a registry for Purebred Andalusians and Half-Andalusians and is also the official representative of the Lusitano Horse (the modern breed of Andalusian in Portugal) in the USA and Canada.

As for genetic anomalies, veterinarians do not yet know if Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Desmitis (DSLD) has its roots in genetics, overuse of affected limbs, hormone fluctuations (previously-sound broodmares may develop symptoms of DSLD around foaling time), or if it is some combination of these factors. Although the condition is probably best known in gaited breeds (American Saddlebreds, Peruvian Pasos, Peruvian crosses, Standardbreds, and National Show Horses), it has also been diagnosed in Arabians, Thoroughbreds, and Andalusians.

But all that aside, this versatile breed can be found competing in dressage, driving, jumping, cutting and cattle work. It is ridden under both English and Western saddle. Their stunning presence and charisma makes them an asset to any show ring, exhibition or parade. With its love of people, the Andalusian is an ideal family horse.

Author Resource: Written by Crystal A. Eikanger
Crystal writes for www.HorseClicks.com, classifieds of Andalusian Horses for sale and other horse breeds, organic farms, trailers for sale and horse tack.

Thinking of Buying a Horse?

There is so much excitement and anticipation in the very art of buying a horse. It is certainly a task not to be taken lightly. A horse is certainly not as easy to drop off at your local shelter as a cat is. When you buy a horse it should be genuine, not a spur of the moment whim.

Nah ... Don't Think So! by Cindy Seigle

The biggest consideration when buying a horse is where to keep him. Investigating local stables and yards, finding out the fee and what you are paying for is an important step to make the transition easier. I have yet to find a stable that pays for horse shoeing, unless it is on their horses!

Once you've settled on a place to keep your horse, you can then indulge yourself in finding a good horse. Horses are easy enough to come by, but not all horses are alike. We know that all horses bite, it is a fact horse owners rarely think about. However when buying a horse it is a tidbit to keep handy.

Some horses due to cruel handling, neglect or an aggressive streak will bite. Biting is a bad habit called a vice, horses that bite do not make a good first horse purchase. There is fact in the saying "once bitten twice shy"!

Read up on vices so you know one when you see one and if the current owner says the horse crib bites, you'll know what that means and whether it is a vice you can live with. Remember the horse is yours and will be your responsibility once you purchase it.

Like humans you have horses in good health and others in questionable health. Some owners will try to sell a horse when they find out his health is less than perfect. The horse could have been in a field and cut his leg. Seems like an every day possibility but depending on where and how severe the cut, he could have done permanent damage. He would thus have a weakness and be prone to lameness.

It is always a good idea to have a veterinarian inspect the horse you want to purchase. That way any possibility of ill health can be brought to your attention and you are in control of taking on the responsibility or not.

Find out if people know about the horse and let them tell you their view of the horse. What is he like on an every day basis when a prospective buyer is not looking? Some horses are lunged to tire them out before a buyer comes to ride...

Yes, riding is sure a very important step when buying a horse! I was so desperate to buy my first horse that I overlooked this step and regretted it every day of the two years I owned the horse. Sometimes you can simply get sold by the look of a horse...

Make sure you buy a good horse that is right for you. The best way to do that is to read and gain knowledge of horses. Take a trainer or experienced horse person with you, but be sure to trust your instinct and have the knowledge to make the best decision for you. Turns out the person I took with me to buy my first horse was really looking for something they wanted.

Author Resource: Written by Benjamin Wise
Horses. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about buying a horse.

Which is Better - Long or Short Horse Riding Boots?

If you are starting out in horse riding, or even if you are not, a common debate is often whether you should choose to ride in traditional long riding boots or short jodhpur boots, perhaps with chaps or gaiters. The choice really depends upon a few factors; what you are going to use them for, your style of riding and personal preference. Your budget and the size and shape of your legs may also play a part in the type of horse riding boots that you choose.

Whichever type of horse riding boots that you choose, the important thing should be that they are designed especially for horse riding. For safety they should feature a smooth sole with a small heel which will prevent the foot from slipping through the stirrup and getting stuck in the event of an accident. They should also allow enough flexibility around the leg and ankle to enable you to have a close contact with the horse and keep your legs in the correct position.

Vintage Leather Riding Boots by funkomavintage and Short Jodhpurs by Horlicks

Firstly, the activities that you take part in will affect your decision. If you are competing then it is often considered that a smart long leather riding boot is the acceptable footwear. Sometimes, the rules of a competition will insist upon long leather boots or at the very least jodhpur boots with matching leather gaiters. Certainly short jodhpur boots with a pair of half chaps will not be permitted. On the other hand, if you ride in showing classes, you should wear short riding boots without gaiters or chaps. Whilst this is normal for showing classes, in general this is not recommended for everyday riding as your legs require some protection from rubbing or pinching from the saddle or stirrup leathers. If you will be wearing your horse riding boots also for yard work then you need to give some consideration to durability of the boot that you choose. In general, long riding boots do not allow enough freedom of movement for mucking out or handling horses all day, and more to the point, most people would not want to wear their smart leather riding boots to get dirty around the stables all day! In this case, a sturdy pair of short boots with half chaps, or specifically designed rubber boots might be more practical.

Some people simply prefer short jodhpur boots for horse riding. They feel that this affords more flexibility in the ankle and provide a more versatile fit. Combined with a pair of half chaps or leather gaiters, they can still be a smart outfit. For those people who have short or wide legs, it can be difficult to find a pair of long riding boots that fit well unless you look to have a pair of horse riding boots custom made and in this situation it is better to opt for short boots and gaiters. Other people much prefer long riding boots, claiming that they are more flattering and look smarter and give a better protection to the legs.

On the whole, it is usual for horse riders to have more than one pair of horse riding boots; a short pair of jodhpur boots with chaps or gaiters for yard work and riding at home, and then a smart pair of leather long boots for competition. This enables you to keep your smart boots looking smart for when you need them. When it comes to choosing your boots, it is advisable to shop around to find the best quality boots that you can afford. Always remember that you get what you pay for and a cheap pair of boots may not last as long as a good quality but more expensive pair of horse riding boots. Shopping around online can be a good way to find quality boots at a reasonable price once you are clear on the style of boots that you are looking for.

Author Resource: Written by Josie Amani
The Equine Store is packed full of quality horse riding clothing, everything from horse riding boots to breeches. Visit the shop at www.equine-store.com

Article From Pet Article World

Western Saddles Versus English Saddles

While there are many different types of riding the world over, the most basic are English riding, and Western riding. The saddles are specialized within each of these distinct styles of riding. Each of these types of riding means a different type of saddle. There are Western saddles for Western events, and English saddles for English events.

Western and English Saddles Photos by evelynbelgium and Kriestienn De Bruyne

An English saddle is quite a bit smaller and lighter than most Western saddles. You'll find that they have steel stirrups, do not have fenders to protect your legs from the straps, and that they have an elastic cinch. If you are not fully familiar with an English saddle and how it need to fit your horse, you should look out for professional assistance. The same can be said for cinching up your English saddle, it needs to be tight enough to hold the saddle in place, and yet the elastic allows your horse to breathe. Also, you require to study how to ride English so that your straps on the stirrups do not pinch your legs, this is one of the main cause that English boots are so tall.

A Western saddle weighs a fair bit more than English saddle. Not only does it have fenders to protect your legs, but also have leather wrapped or raw hide wrapped stirrups that are quite a bit wider at the foot area than the English steel style. Also, a Western saddle will have something called security. This is what surrounds and helps support the Western saddle tree. It's critical that this scurrying on your Western saddle be in excellent condition. If you aware that it's turning up on the corners, or if you notice that when you sit the leather comes outward, it's not offering the support it should. Instead, the whole saddle tree is bearing your weight. So ensure if you're going to ride in a Western saddle which is in good condition and that the leather is heavy enough to support the tree.

Certainly, most people are aware, that English saddles don't carry a horn. All Western saddles or most of them anyhow due hold a saddle horn. Generally, this was often utilized for roping events, but in today's world of barrel racing, cutting and reigning, the horn is also used to assist the rider remain balanced. You'll also find other types of saddles. You'll find an Australian saddles that come with or without a horn, and are sort of a cross between the American Western saddle and the English saddle. You'll also find saddles strictly made for endurance, these saddles are extremely light weight, durable, and distribute the weight evenly throughout the horses weight-bearing back muscles.

Author Resource: Written by Adam Rise
Within each of the type of saddles, English saddles and Western saddles, you'll also observe specialty saddles. You'll often notice a roping saddle has a lower back then perhaps a barrel saddle, and a three-day eventing saddle will be made very durable. Find out more tips about saddles at: saddles.relatedtips.com

Article From Pet Article World

Tips on Bathing Your Horse

In the past, many horse owners and trainers did not bathe horses because they were afraid of stripping the bacteria and natural oils from the horse's coat. As more horses are being used in competition, they must look and be clean so horses are being bathed on a more regular basis, especially during the summer months. There's nothing better than a clean horse, so you want to be sure that you are bathing them correctly to preserve the natural oils and bacteria on the horse's skin.

Oh Yeah, That's the Spot by Beth L. Alexander

The first thing that you will want to do is go to your local tack shop or feed store and find a shampoo that is pH balanced for the horse. It is very important that you use a horse shampoo that is specially formulated for the horse as they are mild and will not strip the coat. The more you will be bathing the horse, the milder the shampoo needs to be. There are also conditioners designed for horses that are designed to replenish the oils in the horse's coat. These oils are important because they are what gives the horse its water repellent coat.

Frequent baths can be really hard on hooves and will cause them to crack over time. Painting the walls, soles and heels of your horse with petroleum jelly or ISP Ointment will help to seal the hooves and keep water out. Some horses are also prone to dry skin over time after several baths as well. You can rub their legs with an aloe-vera lotion or baby lotion to soothe their skin. If you do use lotions wrap the legs with bandages so that shavings and dirt will not stick to them. Remove the bandages when the legs are dry.

Geldings and stallions will also benefit from a sheath cleaning every six months. There are special formulas for cleaning sheaths, but you can also use plain water. Don't use soap, as it will irritate this sensitive area. You also want to move slow and easy while working in this area.

Remember, if it's too cold for you to get wet then it is too cold for your horse. Horses don't like cold baths, especially if you have to use cold water too. The bathing process can be a nice one on a hot day and they will surely appreciate the cool off. To keep your horse clean after the bath, because they will all try to roll, walk the horse until it is dry.

Author Resource: Written by Emma Thompson
Emma writes for Think Horses an equestrian classifieds website.

Top 10 Tips for Avoiding Obesity in Your Horse

Everyone has their own perception of what equates overweight. A big bulky horse just like the front row of a rugby team might be heavy because of muscle. However if that excess weight and bulk is due to fat, then you need to be concerned. Epidemiological studies and statistics indicate that overweight horses are a growing ('scuse the pun) problem, reflecting the same trend in people and other domestic animals.

With that mindset I've compiled a list of 10 nutritional tips to help you maintain your horse's weight at all times, no matter what activity it might be doing.

Hefty Horse Grazing by David Domingo

1. Reduce calories not bulk; all horses should eat a minimum of 2.5% of their body weight as food, (includes hay, chaff, and bucket feed, i.e. ANYTHING he consumes!). Restricting intake to less, means your horse is at greater risk of developing: gastric ulcers, stereotype behaviour, colic, and dental problems. Soak hay for 12hrs if you cannot get hold of oat or barley straw. This removes most of the nutrition especially the calories, making it the horse equivalent of celery. You can then feed 'adlib' satisfying the horse's need for trickle feeding. BUT make sure you add the vits and mins back in by using a balancer, supplement or special vit/min treats.

2. The number of calories, (MJ of digestible energy) he eats needs to be less than the number of calories he uses. Increase the amount of work he does, borrow a jockey, lunge, ride and lead if you have 2 horses and only time to ride one.

3. Most horses resting, retired or in light work will consume excess calories just from grazing. Ignore the traditional advice of 1 horse/acre and overgraze the paddock with a minimum of 3-4 horses/acre, (make sure you pick up droppings and pull ragwort).You will be surprised just how little grass cover is needed to maintain weight on your horse. Horses and ponies don't get fat on 'fresh air'; they get fat on grass.

4. If you cannot 'overgraze' your grass with other horses, keep it cut; think how often the garden lawn needs cutting, your horse is consuming all this!

5. Rather than strip graze, put an electric fence in a u shape around the field so that the water is at the opposite end to the gate. This will increase the amount of exercise your horse has to do and therefore he will use more calories.

6. Weight loss must be slow and does not require you to 'starve' your horse. Rapid weight loss or restriction of food will lead to hyperlipaemia(high blood fat) or a reduced metabolism making subsequent weight loss more difficult. If your horse is obese, (20% over his optimum weight, then it will take at least a year to shift the weight).

7. It might be tedious but weigh any food you are giving including hay or haylage the first time you use the products. If the advice is to feed 500g a day of a balancer then find a yogurt pot or similar that holds 250g EXACTLY. This means that you will not be tempted to sneak the ¼ scoop up to ½ scoop!!

8. Take a photo on a monthly basis; you don't notice weight changes when you see your horse every day. Weigh using a scientifically validated weight tape fortnightly at the same time of day and fat score at the same time. Keep a diary of the changes.

9. Consider a muzzle. Horses standing in a stable use considerably less calories compared to those out moving around.

10. Remember that steady but active walking burns up more fat than trotting or canter work. Ensure that your horse gets at least ½ hr per day of brisk walk. Exercise is also protective against insulin resistance for both horses and humans.

Bonus Tips
11. Leave that rug off. Horses use 80% of their feed energy to keep warm. Insulate them with a rug and the extra calories will go on their back as fat.

12. Remember that calories are energy and energy is calories. If you have a cuddly laid back horse, he doesn't need extra calories to give him energy. Extra calories = more weight gain.

Author Resource: Written by Felipe Bazon
Got a question about equine nutrition? Feel free to ask them via the comment section and I'll kindly answer them as soon as possible.

How to Train Your Horse to Accept the Trailer

Horses are fight or flight creatures, they flee from danger or stand fast to fight. From a horse's point of view a trailer must seem like a dark and dangerous cave-like object and from a survival point of view, getting stuck in a cave is never a good move to make. Years of survival instincts have taught horses not to go into dark, ominous looking places.

Horses Loaded Up and Ready to Roll by Jan Glas

Many horses are initially fearful of being led into a trailer so it's best to break down the experience in order not to overwhelm the horse. A good way to do this is to introduce the horse to a thick sheet of plywood on the ground and have him walk over it. Allow him to look at the plywood and smell it and don't force him over it. A lot of coaxing helps relax the horse. Try this several times until the horse is comfortable walking over it.

In the next step of the exercise try raising the sheet over some 4x4s but make sure it is strong enough to safely bear the weight of the horse otherwise it may break and scare the horse. Place some grain or hay onto the raised plywood to encourage the horse to step onto it and to reinforce the idea that this is a pleasant experience.

Enlist the help of some friends to hold plastic sheets in order to fashion a chute or tunnel for the horse to walk through. Making it wider at one end will simulate a trailer. Again, coax the horse gently to walk through this makeshift chute. When the horse is comfortable with this exercise, try making a tunnel like structure using a plastic sheet and walk your horse through it. Your helpers can stand on hay bates to reach the desired height.

These exercises should help the most difficult to load horses become more comfortable with the whole loading experience as you have broken down the ordeal for them. Breaking down any exercise in this way makes the horse less prone to being overwhelmed by a situation and more accepting.

Work at your horse's pace and remember to remain patient and calm at all times. A lot of gentle encouraging goes a long way and patience is definitely a virtue with horses. Once your horse is going through the above mentioned exercises confidently it's time to introduce the actual trailer.

Use a long lead rope and confidently walk your horse to the trailer without any hesitation, if you hesitate your horse will too. If the horse refuses to load, turn him around and try again. Keep doing this in a firm and calm manner until the horse loads. Once you've managed to coax the horse into the trailer make sure you reward him amply for a job well done.

Calmly lead the horse out and try again, remember to feed and offer the horse treats in the trailer then unload him. Don't leave the horse in the trailer for long periods of time initially; your goal is to make him comfortable being led into the trailer.

Author Resource: Written by Josie Amani
Stal Amani carries the complete line of Equicrystal products at highly competitive prices, please visit our website today to find out how we can help you get the best out of your horse http://www.stalamani.com

Article From Pet Article World

Irish Draught Horse - Not Your Typical Draft Horse

The Irish Draught horse is the national horse of Ireland. The name Irish Draught may be misleading since the breed is a lighter, more free moving animal than the traditional image of the heavy draft horse. The Irish Draught is neither as massive nor as heavily feathered as its name implies.

The breed has been in existence for at least a century or more and originated from the Irish Hobby Horse, which was a small ambling horse that was similar to the primitive Garrano and Sorraia horses of Northern Spain and Portugal. Clydesdale, Thoroughbred and half bred sires were used on the local Draught mares in the 1800's and early 1900's. Native Connemara Pony was also added to form the breed known as the Irish Draught today.

Irish Draught Horse in Killarney by David Kelleher

Traditionally, the Irish Draught Horse was the farm horse in Ireland and so it had to be versatile enough for use as a hunter or ridden or cart pulling and plowing. It had to be docile, strong and economical to keep. The traditional winter feed for the Irish Draught Horse was young gorse put through a chaff cutter, boiled turnips, and bran or meal of some sort that could be spared from the cattle.

But even for all its usefulness, it has nearly gone extinct on several occasions. During times of poverty and famine in Irish history, many breeders gave up registering their animals and hundreds of Irish Draughts were going to the slaughter houses each week until there were very few left. The conservation status of this equine is considered rare. However, today the Irish Draught is more sought after for its breeding qualities with other equines rather than with itself. In England, brood mares are considered to be excellent dams for the Irish Sport Horse when mated with a Thoroughbred stallion. Now the Irish Draught stallion is being used more and more to get extra bone and substance in the progeny of the lighter type mare.

The Irish Draught Horse Society of North America (IDHS NA) was established in 1993 to assist in the conservation and appreciation of the Irish Draught Horse and its successful crossbred, the Irish Draught Sport Horse throughout the world. The IDHS NA maintains the studbooks for qualified Irish Draught and part Irish Draught horses in North America.

On their website can found information regarding the rarity of the breed. The following is a direct quote from Report to The Irish Draught Horse Society, Ireland prepared at the Animal Genomics Laboratory, School of Agriculture, Food Science and Veterinary Medicine, College of Life Sciences, University College Dublin, Belfield, Dublin 4, Ireland; by Angela McGahern, Patrick Brophy, David MacHugh & Emmeline Hill and released in February, 2006.

The Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) of the United Nations classifies the Irish Draught (ID) horse as an endangered breed due to the declining population size. Falling purebred numbers, combined with a serious threat of genetic erosion, suggest that the ID population is in urgent need of conservation. Genetic diversity is an important component in the consideration of conservation strategies and measures of genetic diversity are becoming widely used in breed management systems. The Irish Draught Horse Society must now identify and preserve its rare bloodlines and explore the genetic resources available to preserve the broadest possible genetic base.

In terms of physical characteristics, the Irish Draught Horse stands between 15.1 and 16.3 hands. Any solid color is acceptable, including grays, but white above the knees or hocks is not desirable. The horse has a graceful head and a large kind eye. The neck is set high and carried proudly, showing a good length of rein.

The strong limbs have particularly short cannon bones and despite the power, this equine is free moving and not ponderous. The feet are like those of a hunter and not like those of a cart horse. The feet are one of the horse's most important features and they are the reason why the Irish Draught is required for the breeding show jumpers; the feet have to withstand the concussion from jumping, often on hard surfaces.

The traveling action of the breed is smooth without exaggeration and not heavy or ponderous. The walk and trot are straight and true with good hock flexion and shoulder freedom.

It is hoped that the traditional Irish Draught Horse can make a comeback. It has an intelligent and gentle nature and is noted for its docility and common sense, and has a proud bearing, as well as being an important ingredient in the creation of the Irish Draught Sport Horse.

Author Resource: Written by Crystal A.
Crystal is a writer for http://www.HorseClicks.com, classifieds of Irish Draught Horses for sale (http://www.horseclicks.com/horses/irish-draught/) in Ireland (http://www.horseclicks.com/horses/ie/), UK (http://www.horseclicks.com/horses/gb/), etc.

Article From Pet Article World

Horse's Tail Won't Grow? Follow These Growth Tips

Horses' tails can be a great source of pride or a real problem. Some horse's tails never seem to grow. Some horses have tails that grow, but the horses keep rubbing them out or breaking them off. If you follow these simple steps, you can be on your way to a long, luxurious tail in no time.

First, you need to untangle your horse's tail. Do not ever use a comb of any kind on your horse. A comb will prevent you from gaining a long, luxurious tail more than any other grooming equipment you use on your horse. Use a stiff bristle human hair brush to detangle the tail.

Learning Proper Horse Tail Grooming by Megan Squire

Start at the bottom of the tail and work your way up to the top. Detangle small sections at a time. I like to spray the tail heavily with a spray shine product such as show sheen or laser sheen to help me get it untangled. If it is really bad, I use Cowboy Magic for detangling.

Once you have the entire tail detangled, you need to wash it. Any regular shampoo will do fine. I like to follow up with a good conditioner. If I am using my rapid growth formula, this is when I apply it to the roots and rub it in real good with my fingers.

The next step I do with my horse's tail is to braid it from the bottom of the tail to the bottom of the tail bone. Be sure to leave it loose around the bottom of the tail bone so it doesn't irritate your horse. I seal the very bottom of the braid with black plastic electrician's tape. Never use a rubber band, as this will break the hair.

As the tail grows longer, I fold the tail, doubling it up below the bone. Then I apply another piece of electrician's tape to secure the fold below the bone. This is all you need to do to give most horses the best chance to grow their tail naturally.

Author Resource
Written by Beth Moore
In order to dramatically increase the rate of growth, or for more subborn tails, you can go to Secret Tail Growth Secret and get the homemade rapid growth secret and more tail growth tips. Soon, all your friends will envy your horse's tail.

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Alternative Treatments for Horses - Crystal Therapy

Horse owners have been using magnetic horse blankets for many years but lately a new technology has been making an entry into the equine market. Crystal horse rugs are cheaper, safer, more effective and suitable for all horses.

Unlike magnetic horse blankets that can only be used for short periods of time, crystal horse rugs can be used on any horse indefinitely. Crystal therapy products can be using alongside conventional treatments to speed up the healing process. Magnetic horse rugs cannot be used if there is any active or untreated infection on the horse or within 3 days of a hematoma, if there is an acute injury or in conjunction with heat creating medicines or liniments. Crystal horse rugs can be used any time on any horse, they are completely safe.

Horse Relaxing Under a Blanket by Nihar

Crystal horse blankets contain CelliantTM this material has been proven to increase the volume of oxygen in the blood and improve circulation. CelliantTM accelerates muscle and tissue recovery due to its oxygen enhancing benefits. Crystal horse blankets containing CelliantTM , crystals and certain precious metals work on thermal regulation of the horse's body temperature. This makes the blankets ideal for equine athletes and horses involved in high intensity sports such as endurance, eventing and show jumping.

You can choose from two types of crystal horse blankets: relaxation rugs and energy rugs. The crystal relaxation horse rugs induce a soothing and calming effect on nervous and high strung horses. These rugs work on reducing stress and fear in horses making them ideal for use when transporting horses. The calming effects of the relaxation crystal horse blankets help preserve the horses' concentration and energy. These blankets are ideal for dressage horses.

The Energy crystal horse rug increases and stimulates your horse's energy levels and is ideal for horses that participate in high intensity sports such as eventing and endurance. The metals and crystals utilized in the energy crystal horse rugs give horses an extra boost of energy to help them achieve better results in intense disciplines such as racing, endurance and eventing.

The healing properties of CelliantTM and crystals are also beneficial in leg wraps and bandages. Crystal healing leg bandages can help promote accelerated recovery from trauma and fatigue to the limbs. These state of the art bandage pads have been used successfully for sports horses. The nanotechnology involved in the crystal bandage pads help increase blood flow to ligaments and tendons which reduces the likelihood of stress and injury to legs and hooves.

Crystal rugs and wraps can be used on any horse and are completely safe. They have no bad side effects and their healing properties do not fade or diminish with time. There are no limitations to their use, unlike other similar products.

Author Resource
Written by Josie Amani
Stal Amani carries the complete line of Equicrystal products at highly competitive prices, please visit our website today to find out how we can help you get the best out of your horse http://www.stalamani.com

Article From Pet Article World

Tips to Find Out Lameness in a Horse

Pet animals like dogs express the pain or discomfort they suffer during illness or when they are hurt by whining or whimpering. But prey animals like horses do not do so because in the wild if they exhibit their lameness or weakness, they would be easy targets for predators. The horses on their part express their lameness in their movement. How to find out whether the horse is lame?

Horse Hoof by haglundc

Normally, the lameness of horses can be found out by observing their movement; movement of their legs and movement of their head. For example, the movement of the horse becomes uneven because the horse puts weight on one foot. The next indicator is the movement of the head. The head touches the ground or the horse keeps its head up depending on which leg he has hurt. In resting position, the horse will take the weight with the toe touching the ground. The veterinarians suggest that a lame horse should not be used for riding and immediate medical attention should be provided for such horses.

Identify the problem:
The first step in identifying the problem is examining the feet. A stone or some other objects could have wedged in the crevices of the horse. The hoofs might have been trimmed too short or the nail could be hurting sensitive skin around the foot. If the horse is hot, then feel the pulse at the fetlock area and find out if it is pounding. If the pounding is fast, then it is an indication that the horse is suffering from an injury. The lameness could be due to injury to the ligament in the lower leg or due to a worn out joint. This could be due to overwork when the horse was young. The other cause for lameness is injury on the back caused due to saddling apparatus.

According to veterinarians, horses normally suffer from certain diseases like Founder or Laminitis which affect the foot and cause severe pain. These diseases are caused due to overeating. The other common disease among horses is the Navicular disease which is caused due to degeneration of Navicular bones. In this condition, the horse may even stumble. He will stand with stretched feet. Azoturia is a serious disease affecting the horses. In this condition, the movement becomes stiff. This requires immediate medical attention.

Veterinarians suggest that a horse which is not working should be fed with oats. Further, before it starts work, there should be a gradual warming up and after work, it should be cooled gradually.

Author Resource:
Written by Rod Hoss
Animal Health Science offers excellent products for hoof care and other horse health products.

Article From Pet Article World

Mastering the Sitting Trot

One of the most difficult lessons a novice rider may encounter is how to sit at the trot. With time and practice it can be achieved. There are some exercises to help build balance and posture to aid with this difficult pace. Pilates and abdominal exercises help build abdominal and core muscles which can help tremendously.

The best time to start your training on the sitting trot is after you've mastered the classical seat. Due to the fact that the classical seat permits you to sit securely and deeply you should try to master this seat before trying the sitting trot.

Johnnie Trotting #3 by Eileen Terwilliger

Here are a few exercises that will help you master the sitting trot:
1. Cross your stirrups over the horse's shoulder and have someone lunge the horse. By doing this you can focus on your posture and balance and not have to concentrate on steering your horse. Tie the reins in a knot over the horse's withers so they are neither too tight nor too slack. Now think about your seat, focus on achieving a classical seat but don't worry too much about dropping your heels. Concentrate on sitting deeply and keeping your legs far apart. Hold the pommel lightly and rest the inside hand on your leg. Ask the person lunging the horse to get the horse started on a slow trot and concentrate on maintaining the classical seat as much as possible but do not allow yourself to tense up. Do not grip the saddle too tightly with your hand as this will cause you to become rigid. Focus on the horse's forward rhythm while maintaining regular breathing. Try to relax as much as possible.

2. Once you begin feeling more confident about sitting to the trot you should start holding your hands as if they were holding the reins. Keep your upper arms to your side and your forearms should feel like the natural extension to the reins (even though you are not actually holding the reins). If you begin to tense up concentrate on relaxing. Keep breathing, feel the warmth of the sun, enjoy your surroundings and most importantly, enjoy the ride! Remain relaxed at all times while maintaining proper body position.

3. Once of the best exercises to perfect the sitting trot is to ride bareback. The classical seat will still apply but relax your heels and don't try too hard to keep them down. Use a neckstrap to help maintain balance if you feel insecure. Instruct the person lunging your horse to cue the horse to gently trot for 4-5 strides then to walk a little, then to trot for 5-6 strides and return to the walk. Alternating walking and trotting helps your body relax if you've tensed up during the trot.

Practice frequently and you should be able to master the sitting trot in no time. Learning how to sit to the trot will dramatically improve your balance and riding skills as you will learn to balance and easily control your horse at the trot.

Author Resource: Written by Josie Amani
Stal Amani is an impeccable equestrian centre complete with three indoor and outdoor arenas. We regularly hold show jumping and dressage competitions from novice up to Grand Prix level and due to our central location in Belgium, the facility is ideal for foreign competitors looking for a temporary or permanent base in Europe. We are minutes away from Herentals. http://www.stalamani.com

Article From Pet Article World

The Special Gait of a Tennessee Walking Horse

This astonishing animal, which is also referred to as a Tennessee Walker or more accurately as the Tennessee Walking Horse, is the quintessential smooth-gaited equine. Without the need for special training, the "glide walk" is readily obvious even to people unfamiliar with horses. Not surprisingly, these horses are not only exceptionally beautiful, but they are gentle giants that are bred to be ridden, and are thus favorites among teaching stables that cater to children or senior citizens. Riders -- who might have been otherwise uncomfortable when on the trail or even just during regular practice sessions at the riding school -- find that the animals' special gait makes them an excellent alternative to other breeds.

A Young Tennessee Walking Horse by Carrot Mama

Tennessee Walking Horses are known as the Golden Retrievers of the horse world because of their calm and obedient personalities. The fabled gait of these horses is best compared to a "gliding run" or "running walk" that is markedly devoid of the jarring jumps other equines may take when slightly accelerating. The "running walk" takes the place of the bouncing trot that is so uncomfortable for most riders. This is a pleasure for seated riders, so a leisurely trail ride allows the rider the opportunity to concentrate on riding skills, as well as enjoy other riders, conversation, and the scenery.

The "running walk" has been clocked at about 10 to 20 miles per hour. Even an only incremental increase in speed leads to a decrease in smoothness of the motions. Riders frequently comment on the rhythmically nodding head that accompanies the gait. Most equines of this breed are capable of other gaits than what they are best known for. We also hear about gaits known as the rack, pace, and foxtrot. They are also famous for the "rocking chair" canter.

It is interesting to note that the famous gait is actually breed-specific and thus hereditary; it has far less to do with training. This gaited trail horse was deliberately developed in Tennessee during the late 1800's. Farmers there wanted an animal that would work in the fields with them during the day, yet be a smooth easy ride during off work hours. Tennessee Walking Horses are the result of cross breeding Thoroughbreds, Saddlebreds, Morgans, Standardbreds, and Narranganett Pacers. As outlined by the National Walking Horse Association, this gentle giant accomplishes naturally what many other breeds must learn as an artificial gait: the inborn ability to glide at predefined speeds.

Author Resource: Stephen Daniels is an acclaimed SEO 2.0 researcher of practices, products, and services for a variety of industries. Walking After Midnight Farms has a fantastic assortment of Tennessee Walkers for sale.

Article From Pet Article World

Everything You Need To Know About Equine Influenza

Equine influenza is a highly contagious flu-like virus that spreads quickly among horses. The good news is that it is rarely fatal in healthy horses. Zebras, donkeys and debilitated horses are not as lucky and may succumb to the disease. There are two types of the virus: Orthomyxovirus A/Equi-1 and Orthomyxovirus A/Equi-2. The latter has caused epidemics in equine populations and has become endemic in some countries.

Vaccinating a Horse by Patrick Buechner

The disease varies in severity depending on the overall condition of the horse. Factors such as age and health determine how severe the infection will be. Most horses recover over a period of a few days. One of the first noticeable signs of equine influenze is an high temperature in the range of 38C (101F) to 41 C (106F). 37C to 38C is the normal range of temperature for horses. The horse will seem lethargic and less alert.

The next symptom is usually a dry hacking cough which becomes moist over a period of a few days. Nasal discharge will be apparent and the horse may experience loss of appetite, in fact equine influenza symptoms closely resemble human flu symptoms. To confirm the diagnosis and to rule out other more serious respiratory conditions such as viral arteritis and rhinopneumonitis, the vet will take a nasal swab and run some blood tests.

Unless there are complications, supportive care and rest is all that is needed for recovery . For Every day of fever, the horse should be rested for a week with a minimum rest period of three weeks. NSAIDs and antibiotics may be prescribed by the vet if the horse has a fever over 40C (104F) or if the fever persists for more than 3-4 days. Antibiotics and NSAIDs will also be administered if there is a risk of pneumonia or in the case of pus in the nasal discharge.

Due to the fact that there is no cure for the flu, prevention is necessary. Prevention is achieved through vaccination and proper management practices. The introduction of new horses to a stable or barn should entail a two week isolation period to avoid the spread of the virus. The virus is transmitted easily between horses through the inhalation of respiratory secretions and an infected horse can infect others by simply coughing. As with all viruses equine influenza is spread through the air. Nasal and intramuscular vaccinations help prevent infection in healthy horses your veterinarian should be able to advise you on which to use depending on your location and your horse's environment and overall health.

Author Resource: Stal Amani is a world class equestrian centre located within close proximity from virtually anywhere in Europe. There are large arenas and cross country hacking is available in the surrounding forest areas. Stal Amani caters for most equestrian disciplines from novice to Grand Prix level. The facility also includes solariums for the horses and a fully staffed bar and taverna for our two legged guests http://www.stalamani.com

Article From Pet Article World

Horse Vision - How Do Horses View The World?

Finding out how a horse sees his environment helps us understand why horses behave the way they do in many situations. Many times, horse problems are the direct result of the way the horse perceives and reacts to a certain situation and because horses see the world differently than we do, it's important that you understand these differences so you are in a position to make allowances for them.

Reflection in a Horse's Eye by digizen

There is some controversy surrounding the eyes structure of horses. Horses were thought to have ramped retinas, meaning their eyes don't form a true arc making the retina closer to the lens, but now it is believed that this may not be the case. Horses eyes are structured for grazing while being able to see approaching predators at the same time, but this structure becomes a handicap when judging distances and heights. On approaching a jump, you may notice that horses lower their heads then raise them in an effort to appraise the height of the obstacle. When approaching an obstacle, the horse will lose sight of the jump right before takeoff; experienced riders take this into account and allow their horses to raise their heads before jumping.

Horses are also colour blind, they don't see colours like we do and they perceive the world as a mosaic of different light reflections. They do however notice movement instantly and can react accordingly, much to the dismay of the inexperienced rider! Green or inexperienced horses respond to sudden movement by shying or bolting. If something moves suddenly into their peripheral field of vision this will usually cause horses to bolt.

Horses, with their wide field of vision, have only two blind spots: that which is directly in front or behind them. When approaching a horse from the rear you should talk to him to avoid startling him. When riding through tricky terrain it's always a good idea to allow your horse free rein so he can see what's under his feet.

Your horse's eyes are very sensitive to light and this is why young or inexperienced horses seem nervous when you are trying to load them into a horsebox. Their eyes need to adjust to the darker environment of the horsebox so they can see properly. Entering a horsebox is akin to entering a dark cave and your horse's reluctance to do so is what saved its ancestors - caves housed dangerous predators!

Understanding your horse's vision can help you understand why your horse reacts in various situations; a lot of the time inexperienced horse owners mistakenly believe their horse is intentionally acting up when the real reason for their horse's behaviour is related to the his vision and way of seeing the world.

Author Resource: Stal Amani understands the importance of matching the right horse to the right rider. We have a selection of dressage and show jumpers for sale as well as ponies and if you don't find what you're looking for we can help source the perfect horse for you. Stal Amani can sell your horse through an extensive and trusted network. We are sensitive to the fact that you would like your horse to go to the best possible home http://www.stalamani.com

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Inside the Modern Horse's Mouth - Dental Wear

Fossil samples dating back as far as 55 million years ago can help us determine how long horses (on average) lived. 55 million years ago the average longevity of the hyracotherium was 5 years of age. 20 million years ago during the Miocene, analysis indicates longevity of up to 15 years. 10 million yeas ago during the Pliocene period Equus population was thought to live up to 25 years.

Horses are herbivores and their teeth are designed for breaking down the hard structures like cellulose found commonly in the horses' diet. They have what are known as hypsodont teeth, meaning continuous eruption of the reserve crown of the tooth. This matches the loss of tooth from the grinding down caused during mastication.

Horse Mouth by Monte Hershberger

Numbers of teeth
Horses have 24 deciduous teeth (non permanent) and 36 to 44 permanent. The numbers of permanent teeth can vary mainly depending on gender. Male horses normally have 4 canine teeth; mares are often seen without any. 4 wolf teeth can sometimes be seen in horses, although 2 on each arcade on the upper jaw are most common. Male and female horses alike can show wolf teeth.

Types of teeth
There are 5 different teeth that can be found within horses' mouths:

INCISORS
These are the teeth situated at the very front of the horses' mouth. They are used in a pincer like action for nipping biting and defence. There are 12 in total, 6 on the top jaw 6 on the lower jaw. Incisors are used to age horses. The occlusal surface of each tooth changes in appearance dependant on how old the horse is. Initially these teeth are more oval in shape but as the horse ages the shape of the incisors becomes triangular. The Galvaynes Groove is seen on the corner incisor teeth. This is a longitudinal line that appears also used when ageing horses.

CANINES
Canine teeth are situated caudally to the incisors. There can be 4 in total. They are curved in shape with most of the tooth still under the gum line. They can be up to 7cm in length. They are relatively simple teeth that the ancestors of today's horses' would have used for defence.

FIRST PREMOLAR (WOLF TOOTH)
The wolf tooth is a small simple brachydont tooth, (short crown) although it can range in size from 1-25cm. There can be 4 in total. The roots of this tooth can vary from being non existent to being up to 30mm in length. These teeth can sometimes be found to erupt in varying places throughout the horse's mouth although more commonly they are situated just in front on the first cheek tooth.

PREMOLARS AND MOLARS (CHEEK TEETH)
Cheek teeth form 4 rows of 6 teeth that are accommodated in the maxillary (top jaw) and mandibular (bottom jaw) bones. These teeth are more rectangular in shape when a cross section is taken (down the transverse plane). The teeth on the maxillary arcades (rows) are wider and squarer than teeth on the mandibular arcades which are narrower and more rectangular. Ridges are seen on the buccal (outside) edges of the maxillary arcades in particular. Many dental overgrowths are a common occurrence here.

Tooth growth is seen on average at 2-4mm per year. The occlusal surfaces of these teeth are ridged to increase the amount of surface area for breaking down food. These teeth are used to grind foodstuffs in a circular sideways action.

Mastication (the chewing cycle)
The horses head is Anisognathic, (a-nee-so-nay-thic). Basically the top jaw is wider than the lower jaw. Mastication begins using the lips and incisors to nip the e.g. grass. The horse whilst grinding the grass between its cheek teeth uses its muscular tongue and ridges on the upper pallet to gradually work the food to the back of its mouth in a circular (spiral) motion and then swallows. Horses can only chew on one side of their mouth at a time, changing from one side to the other would mean they would drop the food. A horse should be comfortable to eat on both sides of their mouth. A horse has a great amount of lateral excursion (sideways movement) within their jaw. When eating lush feeds there is a greater amount of movement than when the horse eats dry feeds.

The temporomandibular joint
This is the joint joining the lower jaw to the head. It enables the jaw to move and laterally has a great range of movement; up and down the movement is limited. Unlike carnivores horses have a transverse power stroke in a lingual direction (towards the tongue), associated with their mastication cycle. Joints should wear evenly. If horses' teeth wear unevenly, it can cause pain within this joint due to uneven pressures being placed on it.

Photo Credit: Anneliez

Structure of equine teeth
ENAMEL
Enamel is the hardest and most dense substance in the body. It has a very high (96 - 98 %) mineral content making it almost translucent. Due to the absence of cellular inclusions (unlike dentine or cement) enamel can be regarded as dead tissue. It has no ability to repair itself once its ameloblasts die off. Enamel varies in thickness up to 3 times throughout areas of the tooth parallel to the long axis of the jaw but remains constant throughout the length of the tooth. Invaginated folds on the occlusal surface give strength to the tooth where the softer dentine becomes depressed.

DENTINE
The bulk of the tooth is made up of dentine; a cream coloured softer tissue comprising of approximately 70% minerals, 30% organic compounds and water. The type of tooth (shape and size) along with the compressibility and percentages of different organic components contributes to its overall strength.

The presence of dentine and cement dispersed between the hard enamel folds forms a very strong durable structure suitable for its purpose. Odontoblasts can synthesize dentine throughout their lives. This prevents the occlusal surface of the tooth from exposing the pulp during normal attrition.

There is a close working relationship between dentine and pulp with some of the structures of each working through each other. This sometimes leads to them acting as a single unit. Dentine is considered a sensitive living tissue.

Young tooth before eruption. Note the presence of cement and enamel covered by the dental sac and the large pulp chamber.

PULP
Pulp is soft tissue within the tooth that contains a connective tissue skeleton consisting of fibroblasts, thick collagen, connective tissue cells i.e. Odontoblasts, numerous blood vessels, allowing for continuous dentine deposition and nerves.

Pulp is found in large quantities in and around developing teeth. With age more secondary dentine is laid down as development of the tooth, requiring large quantities of pulp, ends. This makes them stronger and more solid.

Later in the tooth development the pulp chamber has formed two horns due to the laying down of dentine within the pulp chamber.

CEMENT
Cement / cementum are a cream coloured calcified dental tissue characteristically similar to bone. Its mineral and inorganic compound make up are similar to dentine and give it its flexibility. The extensive collagen fibres found within the inorganic component of cement are what attach the cement to the alveolar bone, stabilising the tooth. Cement is a living tissue nourished by the vasculature of the periodontal ligament (attaches cement on tooth to socket).

About the Author
Tammy Patterson is an avid horse rider who wishes to advertise the correct ways to be looking after horses. Tammy works part time for a company who specialise in equine dentistry floats as well as carbide cutters in the UK. For more info, please visit, Anything Equine Dentistry.

Article Source: ArticleSnatch Free Article Directory

Horses, It's In Their DNA

There are many questions that are asked everyday that no one knows the answer to. Some of these questions are more like riddles, for example, why do convenience stores that are open twenty four hours a day have bars on the windows and doors? These types of questions will get the wheels turning in a person’s brain. Then there are some questions that could cause a brain to explode. An example of this type of question is why do women love horses?

Girls Admiring a Horse by D. Sharon Pruitt

A person could easily spend the rest of their lives trying to figure this one out because there is not a clearly defined answer and the worst part is that if you were to ask a woman why they all seem to love horses so much, they will not even know the answer. Many people have tried to answer this question, but there is not a solid answer.

One theory that has been proposed is that a woman’s love for horses is simply part of their DNA. Many people will say that there is a tiny gene located somewhere in a woman’s DNA that programs them to love horses. This “horse loving” gene is similar to the “sport loving” gene that all men are born with; yes guys, this is why you are drawn to all types of sporting events.

Many times the “horse loving” gene will begin to express itself during a woman’s childhood. Anyone will be able to determine when the “horse loving” gene is starting to express itself because this is when a young girl will start to play with toy horses and ponies, but it is important to know that the “horse loving” gene will be expressed more strongly in some girls that in others.

The girls that have a really strong “horse loving” gene will want to own their very own horse. Anytime a girl has the opportunity to ask for a horse, she will. This means that parents can expect to always see a horse on their daughter's Christmas and Birthday lists.

Sometimes the “horse loving” gene will go into remission. This will usually happen about the time that a young woman turns sixteen and wants a car. Parents should keep in mind that it is often less expensive to purchase a horse for their daughters than it is to purchase a car.

Just because the “horse loving” gene has gone into hiding does not mean that it will stay there. There are many occasions when a woman’s “horse loving” gene will resurface. This is why you see many middle aged women buying horses for the first time. Now they do not have to rely on their parents to purchase a horse for them, instead, they now have the means to own a horse.

It is important to remember that all women are born with a “horse loving” gene. The only thing that differentiates all of the women of the world is at what point in their lives that their “horse loving” gene will makes its presence known.

Do you have Horse DNA? Stop on by our horse resource links below and join our community. We would love to hear from you and share some great stories.

About the Author
Ron Petracek was raised in southern Idaho with horses and the great outdoors. With this continued passion He now shares through a a vast equine network. Learn more by clicking the links below. Amazing Equine Network System - Buy Sell or trade anything equine related. Get More Horse Classified coverage and distribution with less cost and work. Award Winning Horse Forum

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Which Horses Make the Best Barrel Racing Horses

When you look at horses for sale, you may be looking for a horse that will be good with the kids. You might be looking for a horse that you can bring into the racing world. But some of you will be looking for something more specific; those of you who have seen barrel racing at rodeos or even on television events might be thinking that barrel horses may be a great option.

Tana Counts on her way to a Second-place win with Dancing Diva at Northwest Rodeo Association Competition, Diva's First Rodeo

Contrary to what some people believe, not every horse is an ideal candidate for barrel racing. Though there are fewer particulars than there are when looking for a Thoroughbred that will be a winner on the race track, there are a number of different characteristics that will be found in great barrel horses. Temperament can play a role in the success of barrel horses just as much as the horse's skills, character, training and lineage.

You read that right - even with barrel horses, you'll find that one of the major considerations that many buyers have is the lineage of the horse. A barrel horse's bloodlines can help to identify how successful past generations in the line were, what the horse was bred for and can provide a sense of what the horse will be able to accomplish during the race.

Of course, more than the bloodlines, most buyers find that, with barrel horses, it is about the build and health of the horse. A good barrel horse has legs that are straight, and if you're buying a horse that's already been raced, you will want to be sure that its legs are free of any bumps or external scars. It's important to be sure that the horse's hooves are healthy, that its back is strong and that the horse is flexible and athletic.

To some extent, you will be able to tell whether or not horses for sale are healthy based on looks, however, before you make a commitment to making a purchase it is usually a good idea to have a veterinarian check to make sure that there's nothing underlying that cannot be seen by the human eye.

If barrel horses have been worked with by trainers to get them ready for the sport, you will want to gather information about the trainers and their experience. The trainers, much like the horse's lineage, can tell you a lot about whether the horse that you are looking at is going to be ideal when you're looking for barrel horses that you will be able to take around the country to ride at events with the hopes of - someday - competing in some of the sports' biggest competitions.

On the other hand, if you only plan to participate in a race or two during the local rodeo season, you're likely to find that you are looking for a very different horse. Yes, the animal's health and build will still be important to you, but you won't want to focus as much on professionally trained barrel horses. Choosing a horse that is good for overall riding as well as barrel racing can, quite possibly, save you $20,000 or more.

In either case, you are going to want to focus more on the health and build of the horse than on the coloring and markings - characteristics that those who are looking for a horse for afternoon rides can focus on a bit more. When you are looking at horses for sale and trying to find barrel horses, you'll want to focus your attention on Quarter Horses which are great at running at high speeds in short bursts, or, if you prefer, Pintos and Paints.

Whichever horse you choose as your barrel horse, it is important to recognize that you won't just be heading into the ring to compete. In order to keep barrel horses ready - and to get them ready if they haven't previously been used for barrel racing - you are going to need to focus on building the horse's lung capacity with long trotting on a regular basis. A good goal to set for barrel horses that you are conditioning is the ability to keep a fast pace for six to eight miles at least three days a week.

To that end, keep in mind that conditioning barrel horses is not just exercise for them; it's also exercise for you.

About the Author
Phil Wiskell is a writer for HorseClicks.com, popular classifieds of horses for sale, horse farms and horse trailers for sale.

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Horses and Sunburn

As humans we are aware of the danger of staying in the sun too long. We know that if we spend too much time out in the sun we run the risk of turning a nice tan into an ugly sunburn. In addition to being unattractive and painful, we are also aware that sunburns can lead to skin cancer. We use all sorts of tricks from sunscreen to light weight covers to prevent our skin from frying.

Because they are big and appear to be infallible (a trait that every horse owner knows is an illusion), we often forget about the affect that the sun has on our horses.

Horses, just like people, can sunburn. Sunburn is most frequently seen on horses with a light colored hair coat such as Appaloosa's, Lipizzans, Paints, Pintos, Andalusian, and grays. Horse owners who own horses with white noses and a lot of pale skin around the eyes often find themselves treating their equine partners for sunburn. A sudden change in hormones, like horses that have been bred, can cause a horse to develop sunburn. Although dark horses aren't typically irritated by sunburn the sun often bleaches the dark hair. In some cases severe sunburn is believed to lead to some liver damage.

Horse owners should also be aware that some medications can also trigger sunburn in horses. Tetracycline is one medication that has been known to cause sunburn in some horses.

Equine sunburn looks just like human sunburn. The skin turns an angry shade of pink or a violent red. If the skin is left untreated long enough it starts to chap and crack. Horses that are suffering from severe sunburn will start to blister. Sunburn can cause hair loss.

Treating sunburned eyes is fairly simple. All an owner needs to do is purchase a fly mask for their horse. When using a fly mask it is extremely important to make sure that the fly mask is kept clean. Simply use a hose and a sprayer to rinse the dirt and eye gunk from the mask. After rinsing the fly mask hang it in the sun to dry.

Some fly masks have an extension that protects the end of the nose from getting sunburned. If you do not own a fly mask that covers your horse's nose all you need to do is rub your horse's nose with sunscreen that you can purchase at your local drugstore.

Some horse owners, especially ones who are interested in showing, try to prevent the sun from damaging their horse's coat by keeping them inside during the daytime hours when the sun is the most damaging. Other owners prefer to keep their horses covered with a light weight turn out blanket or fly sheet to protect their horse's hair coat. One of the reasons some owners prefer a blanketed horse to one kept inside is that they feel that keeping a horse stalled and completely free of sunlight can lead to depression.

About the Author
Theresa Truscott has loved horses since early childhood and enjoys sharing her passion for horses with other horse lovers. She finds useful information and products and circulates it on http://www.horseridingblankets.com about horses and horse riding blankets. For a free report on "How to Improve Your Riding" see Theresa's Horse Aficianado blog at http://www.horseridingblankets.com/blog

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